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Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:54 AM


CAUTION CAUTION -- CONSTRUCTION ZONE AHEAD -- The below is currently being reworked for GEN 3 specifics

(Items on ORANGE have not yet been updated to GEN 3 info)

Accumulated Specifications, Details, and Tips for the Yamaha FJR 1300 '13-Up (Generation 3)

New Purchaser Checklist
Either personally double-check or ask the dealer specifically the following things before taking acceptance of the a new FJR:

  • Is the Air Duct Missing?  Part# 5JW-14437-00-00 (Duct) and it's screws 9778-50125-00 (Screw, Tapping)
  • Are the saddlebag lock latch screws loctited?
  • Did you get the Third lock with bike in case you get a Yamaha top box?
  • Are the Saddlebag body color caps included?
  • Is the Toolkit under seat?
  • Are the steering head bearings torqued?
  • Are the Mirrors tight? More than finger tightened. Consider changing to nylocs yourself when convenient. Or, alternatively, a tip from otrfjr: use 2 layers of teflon tape (the kind plumbers use & is $1 per roll) around the bolt. otrfjr found that this worked even better than the rubber washers on the mirrors.
  • Point out any/all scratches

Things to check at 600 Miles:

  • Drive shaft spline, most have insufficient moly
  • Steering Head bearing torque
  • Oil drain bolt over-torqued from the factory
  • Check rear brake caliper bolts (anti-seize)

Recall/Technical Service Bulletin Info:



Manual's (ALL Yamaha Power Sports Manuals Clicky)

Owner's Manuals

2013 Model Clicky -- Part No.: LIT-11626-26-56
2014 A Model Clicky -- Part No: LIT-11626-27-48
2014 ES Model Clicky -- Part No.: LIT-11626-27-49

Service Manuals

2013 Model -- Part No.: LIT-11616-26-45

2014 A Model -- Part No.: LIT-11616-27-

2014 ES Model -- Part No.: LIT-11616-27-

Yamaha OEM online Parts Fiche: Clicky

2013 - FJR1300A $15,890 (Yamaha website) Stone gray

2014 - FJR1300A $15,890 (Yamaha website) Candy Red
2014 - FJR1300ES $16,890 (Yamaha website) Candy Red

Model Nomenclature
FJR13A 3P64 (USA)
FJR13A 3P65 (California)
FJR13AE 2D24 (USA)
FJR13AE 2D25 (California)

Vin Number Decode:
How to decode the VIN (Vehicle ID Number):



  • Type 1298cc liquid-cooled inline 4-cylinder; DOHC, 16 valves
  • Bore x Stroke 79 x 66.2mm
  • Compression Ratio 10.8:1
  • Fuel Delivery: Fuel Injection
  • Ignition: TCI: Transistor Controlled Ignition
  • Transmission: 5-speed; multiplate wet clutch
  • Final Drive: Shaft blank.gif


  • Suspension / Front 48mm fork; fully adjustable, 5.3-in travel
  • Suspension / Rear Single shock; adjustable preload and rebound damping, 4.9-in travel
  • Brakes / Front Dual 320mm disc, UBS ABS
  • Brakes / Rear 282mm disc, UBS ABS
  • Tires / Front 120/70-ZR17 radial
  • Tires / Rear 180/55-ZR17 radial blank.gif


  • Length 87.8 in
  • Width 29.5 in
  • Height 52.2 or 57.3 in
  • Seat Height 31.7 or 32.5 in
  • Wheelbase 60.8 in
  • Ground Clearance 5.1 in  


Gear Ratios:

1st: 2.529 (43/17)
2nd: 1.773 (39/22)
3rd: 1.348 (31/23)
4th: 1.077 (28/26)
5th: 0.929 (26/28)

Primary reduction ratio 1.563 (75/48)
Secondary reduction ratio 2.698 (35/37 x 21/27 x 33/9)

(About 2.7% taller than the Gen 1)

2013 -- 637# USA model with oil & fuel, (639 CA model)

2014 -- 637# USA A model with oil & fuel (639 CA model)

2014 -- 644# USA ES model with oil & fuel (646 CA model)

Maximum load
2013 -- 474# USA Model (472 CA model)


2014 -- 474# USA A Model (472 CA model)

2014 -- 467# USA ES Model (465 CA model)

6.61 US Gal (1.45 US Gal reserve)
Unleaded only, 86 octane is fine.


Gen 3 Fuel Pump part number: 5JW-13907-22-00

Engine Oil: SAE 10W/40, 10W/50, 15W/40, 20W/40 or 20W/50

API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA


Total System - 5.18qt

W/O Filter - 4.02qt

W/ Filter - 4.23qt


2013 - Final Drive/Shaft Gear Oil: Yamaha Genuine Shaft Drive Gear Oil -- SAE 80 API GL-5

2014 - Final Drive/Shaft Gear Oil: Yamaha Genuine Shaft Drive Gear Oil Exclusive to FJR1300/VMAX  * Per Owners Manual no Generic Specs listed

Final Drive Oil: 0.21qt

Some have used Mobil 1® Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-140 API GL-5, or the Penzoil Marine synthetic gear drive oil 75/90W


If Yamaha does not provide the specifications of the oil they must then provide it FREE as per the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act 0f 1975

Capacity (each): 30 liters according to European website references.
29.2 liters +/-1 liter according to Ignacio measurement.

Oil Filter Info:
O.E.M. Oil cartridge filter: Yamaha P/N 5GH-13440-20-00 superceded P/N 5GH-13440-50-00  (the only difference is the length being shorter)
Size: Believed to be 20mm X 1.4mm threads 2.3" O.D. Gasket, 2.5" length

Other recommended 2.5" Length Car Oil Cartridges/Filters:
Purolator Pure One PL14612
Mobil-1 M1-108
Bosch 3300
Fram PH7317

Other recommended 3.25" Length Car Oil Cartridges/Filters:

(Note for bikes with Canyon Cages installed:  The 3.25" filters will be a TIGHT fit but they will fit.  You will NOT be able to use a "cap type" filter wrench.  You will need to use "pliers type" tool.)
Purolator Pure One PL14610
Mobil-1 M1-110
Bosch 3323

Ignition Keys:

Equivalent part numbers: Ilco YM63, Taylor X248, Curtis YM63,Silca YH35R
Same blank is used for: Yamaha: YZF, FJR, FZR, FZ1, R1, GTS, XJ, V Star, Road Star, Royal Star, Venture, F1, Warrior & TT-R models - 1993+. Vino Scooter 2001+.

Other Keys: Givi V46: Taylor X76

Cooling System:
Total Coolant System: 2.75qt, (0.69qt radiator capacity, 0.26qt reservoir capacity)
Thermostat: NIPPON model 4FM, Opening at 156 - 163 °F, Full Open at 185 °F
Coolant Temp Sensor: 290–354 Ohm (Ω) at 176 °F

GEN IIIs have a digital numeral read out in lieu of the bar graph in previous GENs

Ambient Temperature Sensor Location:
Behind the Gauge Cluster Clicky for Pics

Windshield Removal:
Remove the 2 Allen screws under the 2 brackets first. Then the 6 plastic M5-.80 screws holding the windshield on. Clicky

Windshield Screws:
"Plastic" some say nylon, Polycarbonate, Polypropylene, or perhaps glass Fiber 50% Reinforced Polyamide.
Size Corrected by "Lake_Powell" size is M5 X 0.80 pitch 18mm Length (was: 25mm length)
Yamaha P/N: 90150-05024-00 x 6

Adjustable Middle Fairing: Clicky for Pics
Allows warm air to be directed on or away from the rider.
The lower/in position for Summer riding, upper/out position for Winter riding


Fairing (Tupperware) Removal

Excellent post for Fairing removal with photos HERE

Spark Plugs:
NGK CPR8EA-9 (GAP: 0.031" - 0.035") x 4

Front wheel, Cast Aluminum: Rim size 17M/C × MT3.50
Wheel travel 5.31"; Radial wheel run-out limit 0.04"; Lateral wheel run-out limit 0.02"

Front Tire 120/70 ZR17M/C (58W) Tubeless
OEM: BRIDGESTONE/BT023F (Wear limit 0.04")

Rear wheel, Cast Aluminum: Rim size 17M/C × MT5.50
Wheel travel 4.92"; Radial wheel run-out limit 0.04", Lateral wheel run-out limit 0.02"

Rear Tire: 180/55 ZR17M/C (73W) Tubeless
OEM: BRIDGESTONE/BT023R (Wear limit 0.04")

Tires recommended by others:
Michelin Pilot Road 3s

Repairing on the road:
Progressive Suspensions TRK-2 Plug Kit and Campbell and Hausfeld RP1200 Stripped Down Compressor from Wal-Mart for $9.96.
Also: Innovations brand original "Ultraflate" CO2 inflator Clicky (you need to carry at least 4 CO2 cartridges) in addition to tire patch kit

Rear Wheel Remove/Install GEN II described, same for GEN III Clicky

How to change your own tires, changing tires: Clicky
Mojo Lever: Clicky
Mojo and Marc Parnes balancer pictures: Clicky
Fred Harmon's how to with pictures: Clicky

19mm (Front Axle) source Clicky

Also the back of some spark plug sockets work great for the front 19mm (just put it on an extender backwards)

Front 320mm

Rear 282mm

Front Brake Pads (kit)
Each front caliper requires 4 pads, so you need 8 pads total to replace all front pads.
OEM Part# 3P6-W0045-00-00. This part # includes 2 pads and retails for about $70.
EBC HH sintered Part SKU# FA423/4HH. Unlike the OEM kit, EBC's kit includes 4 pads and a kit goes for about $50.
(note that many on-line sites incorrectly list SKU# FA417/4HH. This SKU WILL NOT FIT the Gen III FJR)

Rear Brake Pads (kit)
OEM Part# 3P6-W0046-50-00.  This part # includes 2 pads, retails for about$50.
EBC HH sintered Part SKU# FA319/2HH (order 1 set),about $30.

Brakesupport pad
Front OEM Part SKU# 3P6-25919-00-00 Retail about $20 You need 4 to do the front.
Rear OEM Part SKU# 5JW-25919-00-00 Retail about $5. You need 2 to do the back.

According to some forum posts the EBC sinteredpads do not wear as long as the OEM pads and may cause extra wear on the rotor.EBC does not make an organic pad for the FJR.

ECU: Mitsubishi FUA0010
Ignition Coil: Denso JO383
AC Magneto: Denso LNX07, 14.0 Volts, 590 Watts at 5000 r/min (prior years 490 watts)

Watts = Volts x Amps. So we know power in watts for a Gen II is 590 watts. We know the produced voltage without a major load is about 14 volts. So amps are 590/14 = 42.

Stator coil resistance 0.13–0.19 Ω at 68 °F

Battery: GT14B-4 j (12 Amp Hour (AH))
OEM: Manufacturer GYM
Good Replacement:


Accessing in Gen III: Here.


Lithium Batteries:

EarthX Batteries are a very good brand, they have a built in Battery Management System which balances the cells and does NOT require Special Chargers.  Clicky for good source.

Headlight: 12V, 60W/55W x 2

Tail/Brake: 12V, 5W/21W x 2

Front Signal/Position: LED x 2

Rear Signal: 12V, 21W x 2

License Plate: 12V, 5W x 1

Meter Lighting: LED

All Indicator/Warning Lights: LED

Main Fuse 1........................................50A

Main Fuse 2........................................30A

Brake Light..........................................1A

Signaling System.................................10A


Radiator Fan........................................10A x 2


Fuel Injection........................................15A

ABS Control Unit...................................7.5A

ABS Motor.............................................30A

ABS Solenoid........................................20A

Cruise Control.......................................1A

Auxiliary DC Jack (Glove Box)...............3A


Windshield Motor...................................20A

Electronic Throttle Valve........................7.5A


10 mm 6 mm 4.3
12 mm 8 mm 11
14 mm 10 mm 22
17 mm 12 mm 40
19 mm 14 mm 61
22 mm 16 mm 94


ft-lb: Application
------- ---------------
9.4 Spark Plug (same as prior models)

7.2 M6 - Coolant drain bolt
31. M14 Oil drain bolt (same as prior models) ** See notes in 'Servicing' section of this post.
12. M20 - Oil filter cartridge
8.7 M6 - Oil cooler bolt
8.7 M6 - Oil pan bolt (qty 20)

66 Front Axle (prior models 52 ft-lbs)
15 Front Axle pinch bolts (prior models 17 ft-lbs)
29 Front Brake caliper bolt
22 Front wheel sensor bolt (ABS Sensor)

90 Rear Axle (same as prior models)
17 Rear Axle Pinch bolts (prior models at 11 ft-lbs)
19 Rear Brake caliper bolt
22 Rear wheel sensor bolt (ABS Sensor)
22 Rear brake torque rod nut

17 Final gear oil (Rear Drive) drain and filler bolt

85 ft-lbs (nut size 36mm) Steering Stem Nut Cap Nut
37 Lower stem nut initial tightening
13 Lower stem nut final tightening

17 Handlebar bolts (inboard)
47 Handlebar nut (outboard)

Engine Mount Torques:
ft-lb:Size: Description
35: M12: Engine mounting bolts (right front lower side)
35: M12: Engine mounting bolts (right front upper side)
35: M12: Engine mounting bolts (left front lower side)
35: M12: Engine mounting bolts (left front upper side)
32: M10: Engine mounting nut (rear upper side)
13: M16: Spacer bolt
32: M10: Engine mounting bolt (rear lower side)
11: M8: Engine mounting bolt (left rear side)
23: M10: Engine bracket bolt (left rear side)
11: M8: Engine bracket bolt (top)
27: M10: Engine mounting bolt (top)

Engine Mount Torques (in sequence of operation)
ft-lb: description
35: Left Front Upper Side engine mount BOLT
32: Rear Lower Side engine mount BOLT
13: Spacer Bolt (right side top, special tools required)
32: Rear upper side engine mounting NUT (threads oiled)

35: Left Front Lower Side Engine mounting bolt (Typical Slider Installation Bolt (torque the Left side First)
35: Right Front Upper Side Engine mounting bolt
35: Right Front Lower Side Engine mounting bolt (Typical Slider Installation Bolt (torque the Right side last)

17: Front Side pinch bolts
17: Rear Side pinch bolts

15: Tail Rack/Luggage Rack bolts

Front preload: Many like 2 to 2.5 rings showing per Warchild

From SportRider, the complete article and tuning guide Clicky

Front spring compression (lines showing): SR:2, WC:2-2.5, JA:2
Rebound clicks out SR:4 JA:6
Compression clicks out SR:7 JA:8

Rear preload - SR:Hard JA:Hard
Rear Rebound clicks out SR:3 JA:6
(rear compression is not adjustable on stock shock)

SR - Sport Rider recommendation
WC - Warchild info
JA - JeffAshe settings JeffAshe clicky

Spring rates and conversions (Thanks FJRFencer):

1 N/mm = 5.724 lb/in (springrate)
1 N-m(torque) = 8.85 lb-in (torque)

From Lee At Traxxion
There are two shock springs on the Gen1 and Gen2 FJR.
Specific to Lee's experience with the '05 (Gen1) and '06 (Gen2):

(Gen 1) '05 has a short 1400 lb/in spring AND a longer 670 lb spring.
On the soft setting, the two springs are used in series and provide a 440 lb/inch rating.
On the hard setting, the short spring is locked out and the single 670 lb spring is used.

(Gen II) '06 has a short 1800 lbs/inch spring AND the same 670 lb longer rate spring as the Gen I.
Learned from testing and measuring the (Gen II) '06 shock: The soft setting was upped from the Gen I to make it more useful to a wider range of riders while the hard setting was left unchanged from Gen I.
(Physical dimensions were exactly the same on the '05 Gen 1 and the '06 Gen II)

ColorRite 2013:
Yellowish Gray Metallic #5 (YNM5) Code: 0680, Top Coat: 5930 Clicky

ColorRite 2014:

Deep Red Metallic K (DRMK) Code: 0918, Top Coat: 5253 Clicky Base Coat: 1253 Clicky

Yamaha OEM online Parts Fiche: Clicky
Follow the prompts entering Motorcycle, Year, Model, etc.

Online parts sources:

M/R Cycles


Ron Ayers

Air Filters:
K&N air filter # YA-1301 Mfg application Link: Clicky
UNI air filter # NU-3255

Mobil 1 Synthetic

Fork Oil (all you wanted to know about suspension oil) Clicky

IBA Tool Kit link Clicky

Steering Bearings:
Steering Spanner wrench: Yamaha P/N: YU-33975, K&L P/N: KL-0201D, BikeJohnny P/N: YA10-90-020-00
Tapered Bearing Discussion Clicky
Service Article Clicky by Mark Johnson

All Balls Racing Tapered Steering Head Bearings Clicky

Handle Bars:
Handle Bar POSITION Modification (there are three position) Clicky by Wicked Webby
Handle Bar ANGLE Modifications (removing the pins): Clicky by chornbe

Wheels/ Differentials/Brakes:
Rear Wheel Removing/Installing ( Clicky

Final Drive/Driveshaft/Differential information Clicky
Final Drive (Differential some call it) drain crush washer part number is: 214-11198-01-00 (Same crush washer used for the engine oil drain plug.)

Changing the Rear Brake Pads(03HiYoSilver, 2003 model year shown) Clicky

Raising front end easy method: Clicky
Raising front end tricky method: Clicky

Photo's of how to get under the fuel tank for TBS/spring release, etc.:
Rickster's 1000th post: Clicky

Oil Change:
2006 Step by Step 600 Mile service Clicky

No-Hassle FJR1300 Oil Change Clicky
Several have posted issues with the 31 ft-lb Yamaha specified oil drain bolt torque (i.e. 'stripping' the threads). Also several posts on factory believed to have overtightened the oil drain bolt.
Tip: Copper replacement if you chose not to use OEM oil drain crush washer:
Auto part store: 1/2" 12MM O.S. (M14) DRN. Plug Gasket Skew: 0 80358 18128
OEM oil drain crush washer part number is: 214-11198-01 and this same gasket fits the shaft drive drain plug

Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs

Throttle Body Syncronization (TBS) :
FJRTech's article on how to do a TBS (Throttle Body Sync) Clicky
Broodwich's pictorial on how to do a TBS Clicky
Jestal's alternative TBS (Throttle Body Sync ) Clicky
Rickster's homemade differential manometer for TBS (Throttle Body Sync) Clicky

Main Fuze / Main Fuse:
How to replace the Main Fuse Clicky

Throttle Position Sensor:
Replacing the (TPS) Throttle Position Sensor Clicky

The clutch slave cylinder was re-designed on the Gen II, and many have found better clutch action by replacing the slave cylinder with a Gen I clutch slave cylinder. JeffAshe's link: Clicky

How to soak the clutch. Some 2008 models are claimed to have a dry clutch.: Clicky

Diagnostic Mode:
To enter Diagnostic Mode:

  • Turn the main switch to "OFF"
  • Simultaneously press and hold the "TCS" and "RESET" buttons, turn the main switch to "ON", and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more (All displays on the multi-function meter right display disappear and "DIAG" appears)
  • Simultaneously press the "TCS" and "RESET" buttons for 2 seconds or more to set the diagnostic mode
  • Select the diagnostic code number corresponding to the fault code number by pressing the "TSC" button and the "RESET" button (To decrease the selected diagnostic code number, press the "RESET" button - Press for 1 second or more to automatically decrease numbers. To increase the selected diagnostic code number, press the "TSC" button - press for 1 second or more to automatically increase numbers.)
  • Turn the main switch to "OFF" to cancel the diagnostic mode.

Note: Lean Angle Sensor (Overturned Motorcycle) Fault code: 41

Scroll through the diagnostic codes to: 61 (Fault Code History).

If you see a 00 at the right then there are no fault codes. However if you see a number 41 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 41 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62 (erase history code). To erase the history, set the start/stop engine switch from off to on. This will erase ALL codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the Service Manual (LIT-11616-26-45) to problem solve or take it to your dealer.

Y.E.S. Factory Warranty (Yamaha Extended Service Plan)
$389 from D&H Cycle, 18115 US Hwy 31, Cullman, AL 35058, 256-739-1840, 888-553-3311
YES coverage can be bought from any dealer and apply to any other dealer fairly easily.
The one exception is Florida residents. That state is totally screwed up and passed a law that residents can only get insurance from in-state agents.

What will void the Warranty? ( Internet Search: Magnuson-Moss Act )


  • 2013 Cruise Control's top set speed is 80mph -- 2014 This was upped to 100mph
  • Some bikes missing parts from factory -- part # 5JW-14437-00-00 (Duct) as well as three part # 9778-50125-00 (Screw, Tapping) that holds it on
  • For some unknown reason Yamaha did not put the Rear Flap that protect the shock on the 2013s.  It is on all other model years.  Part # 5JW-21621-10-00


The stock horn is wimpy. Popular upgrade is to Magnum Blasters. Sometimes they're hard to find and may also be marketed as "Freeway Blasters" Part #72112 and # 72102 for the low and high version. They are supposedly made by FIAMM and likely are regulated by U.S. and the E.U. I got mine at a Schucks and are reported to be carried at Napa as "FIAMM Blasters".

Discussion on the merits of adding a relay or wiring harness: this discussion
and here: FJRandy wiring harness
Magnum Blaster Horn Install: Clicky

Randy's Horn Harness: Clicky

Sliders etc.:
MC Enterprises Canyon Cages Clicky -- Must call to order

     #1200-310 = 2013+ Side Bag Guards $125 (includes shipping)
     #1200-410 = 2013+ Engine Guards $300 (includes shipping)

Side Bags:
Toecutter Saddlebag/Side bag safety pin: Clicky

Highway Pegs:
Wild Bills highway peg brackets FJR Vendor Section: Clicky, link: Clicky
Some have put the Kuryakin #7996 Offset Mounts with the #8002 Pegs for pictures: Clicky
Garuld offers to powder coat the Wild Bill brackets: Clicky

Lriders highway pegs: Clicky

John_Dumke Hella FF 50 install: Clicky

Custom Luggage Racks by Garauld: Clicky
Adding Helmet Guardian pieces to Garaulds Rack to lock your helmet by TheAxeman: Clicky

Custom Luggage Racks by OHFJR: Clicky
OHFJR's helmet guardian lock kit for the OHFJR luggage Racks: Clicky

Rickster's Givi and/or Cortech Tail bag setup: Clicky
Rickster's Helmet Guardian added to OHFJR's Rack: General: Clicky Piece Parts: Clicky
OHFJR's/Premier's Rack and Givi E250 Plate: Clicky

daddysbike post on the SW-Motech Rack with Givi V46 install: Clicky

Helmet Locks:
TownsendsFJR1300 Helmet Guardian mount: Clicky

How to rekey re-key Helmet Guardian cylinders to the Yamaha Ignition Key (compliments of Fred H.) pictoral Clicky
A different approach, but also re-keying the cylinders (comliments of Harald) Clicky

Many prefer the FZ1 mirrors to the OEM mirrors. Comparison: Clicky

Throttle Locks:

Brakeaway (although marketed as a cruise control, it's a throttle lock) Company Website: Clicky

NEP Throttle Lock: Clicky

ThrottleMeister: Clicky

Vista Cruise: Clicky



All model years exhausts are interchangeable.


Beowulf: Clicky

Akrapovic: Clicky


Dovie'andi se tovya sagain
"I ride not to add days to my life, but to add LIFE to my days."
"Those who say it cannot be done should not interrupt the people who are doing it."
"Now and then it's good to pause in our pursuit of happiness and JUST BE HAPPY."


FJR Pilot

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 06:43 PM

As the 2013 come with cruse control, the whole section on Throttle locks can go away.

John  and Jan (RIP) in Yuba City, CA
Current rides - 2013 FJR1300AC #51 - 2015 Yamaha WR250F

AMA number 399847 - 1986 (Life Member)

#3 Fairlaner

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Posted 01 January 2014 - 07:58 AM

This will be very least it will be when i see my bike again....

R.I.P. My one fingered friend Posted Image
IBA Number 45197 CBA #3

#4 oki

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Posted 01 January 2014 - 01:04 PM

As others have said, it's not too bad to get to. Just use a small screwdriver. I was able to just use a screwdriver bit from my ratchet set and turn it with my fingers.

Here are Cylinders 1 and 2. The rear of the bike is to the right.

Cylinders 3 and 4. I had to move the wire bundle out of the way. The rear is to the left.

Cylinder 1 from next to the bike looking forward. As you can see it's easy to access this one. Cylinder 4 is similar.

If you are following directions, Cylinder 3 is your reference, so no need to adjust this one. Cylinder 2 will be the "worst" one to get access to. 

1985 Honda Shadow

2005 Honda VFR800

#5 jscasteel

Training Pilot

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 09:50 PM

The FSM says engine oil drain plug  specs for tightening is 31 lb.-ft. That is too tight. There is a good possibility of stripping the threads. Specs for final drive oil drain plug is 17 b.-ft. They are the same size bolts.


If you are going to use a torque wrench, I suggest 17 lb.-ft. for the engine oil plug also.

#6 Uncle Hud

Just another blob of protoplasm using up your oxygen ...

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 06:55 AM

Zombie thread, but I am here to endorse something that's been said a million times:



Are the saddlebag lock/latch screws loctited?

This morning, like a thousand other mornings, I pull into my office parking deck and open the starboard (uphill) hardcase to stash my Aerostich suit.  The lock twisted, then pulled completely out of the latching lever.  Thank the Lord, one of the screws mentioned in the above quote -- which I have never looked at for 50,000 miles -- fell into the plastics underneath and didn't bounce onto the freeway during my 12-mile commute.


Took 20 minutes to figure out how everything went back together and screw in the little bastard with my fingers.  I am ever so lucky this didn't launch my hardcase down the freeway.


On the way home this evening, I will stop by my local Ace Hardware, find a half-dozen identical bolts and a tube of Loctite, and reassemble BOTH hardcase locks.


I am embarrassingly chastised, and offer this up only as a forewarning to others: DO NOT PUT THIS OFF.  Do as I say, and not as I do, or you, too, may find yourself in this situation.

                You can't get into trouble in second gear.

#7 Bill Lumberg


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Posted 22 March 2017 - 09:01 AM

I loctited mine.  But I haven't checked them in a year.  Timely reminder.  

2018 Tour of Honor Flag triple 6.  Race you there.

#8 Ndv21

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 09:03 PM

Have these torque specs been verified? Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the 4 acorn nuts that hold the shaft drive pumpkin in place?


66 Front Axle (prior models 52 ft-lbs)
15 Front Axle pinch bolts (prior models 17 ft-lbs)
29 Front Brake caliper bolt
22 Front wheel sensor bolt (ABS Sensor)

90 Rear Axle (same as prior models)
17 Rear Axle Pinch bolts (prior models at 11 ft-lbs)
19 Rear Brake caliper bolt
22 Rear wheel sensor bolt (ABS Sensor)
22 Rear brake torque rod nut

Life's too short to not ride!


IBA# 49494

#9 mcatrophy

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 11:33 AM

Picture showing the Gen 3 temperature sensor, first is a blurry one (sorry, but better than nothing) showing its position:
(Click on image for larger view)

The second shows the sensor unscrewed from the mirror mounting frame, the non-captive nut put back on the bolt for safe keeping:

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#10 Uncle Hud

Just another blob of protoplasm using up your oxygen ...

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 12:41 PM

^^^^^ Like.

                You can't get into trouble in second gear.

#11 Fred W

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 03:20 PM

Since this is a thread about 3rd Gen facts, I will add that it is a fact that the North American 2014 appears to be the fastest to all nearby law enforcement. I think they are right. 

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#12 Knifemaker

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Posted 01 August 2017 - 03:49 PM

They give you a performance award Fred? 

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#13 Uncle Hud

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Posted 01 August 2017 - 03:59 PM

Confucius say:  "Performance awards, like IBR finishing positions, depend more upon the rider and their attitude than the bike itself."

                You can't get into trouble in second gear.

#14 mcatrophy

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 10:09 AM

Noticed a difference in behaviour between the Gen 3 and Gen 4 "P" position of the ignition switch. 

Gen 3 turns on the parking lights and enables the hazard lights (as did the Gen 2).

Gen 4 does not turn on the parking lights, only enables the hazard lights.

So, less likelihood of flattening the battery if you turn past the "Lock" position when you pull out the key. 

2018 FJR1300AS - YCC-S Rules!
2014 FJR1300AS 2010 FJR1300AS 2006 FJR1300AS '02 Trophy 1200 '01 Bonneville '55 Tiger Cub
Some FJRForum contributions.
My web site


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