2022-01-16 KrZy8 Cruise Control Fail and Fix

published by dcarver on Sun, 01/16/2022 - 21:15

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2006 Yamaha FJR1300 - KrZy8

2022-01-16

I need Warranty Repair, Smitty!

Well, after 16 years of service the AudioVox CCS-100 cruise control installed by Smitty and organized by Fairlaner, has failed!

Go for the easy stuff first, right? So opened up the switch module to find this mess.

The control pad. Hmm. Not looking 'conductive' or maybe it's a conductive silicone of some kind?

PCB board back-side.
Looks like it has, uhh, 'changed state' over the years?

Noticed that Smitty took the time combine the red and gray wires.. Wonder why?
(Gray is for 'backlight' and Red is B+ for Set, Accel, etc.)

I was smart enough to A) buy a brand new one and a used one from 'back in the day'...
So have a used SkyWay machined housing and switch assembly, as seen by the pretty color coding on the
new-to-me switch cabling harness.

The 2006 module. Notice that positions 1, 4, 7 are 'on'. And the jumper at left under LED is removed for manual transmissions.

BTW, the LED is a diagnostic light! Power the bike and CCS up, press Set, Decel buttons and the light should illluminate.
MORE IMPORTANTLY, after energizing CCS, start bike and should see light blink indicating pulse signal from coil pickup.

PS
You can crank via starter, but let it spin for 10 seconds or so for light to indicate. As RPM's increase, light blinks faster.
At starting speed, kind of slow RPM and light response.

While jacking around with the connector, the green wire came out. Don't care, I have a used assembly to install.

Coil pick off point for CCS-100. It's one of those stupid-ass blade connectors that penetrate insulation and mutilate the wire.

See what I mean? After years of vibration, the 'blade' stressed the wires into breaking. Look close..

A pic of me to remember CCS-100 cable routing.

Gotta get pics of wiring fix... Was too excited to see LED light off when cranking..
Then again, with 2006 module, did not crank long enough maybe?

2022-02-14 NOT Fixed

Permalink Submitted by dcarver on Tue, 02/15/2022 - 11:33.

Unfortunately, none of the above work fixed the issue.

Off to measure volts and ohmages...

10 pin connector
1. BLACK - ground. 0.1 ohms measured
2. RED - 12VDC always --> Key on, 11.6, 12.3 battery
3. BROWN - +12 ignition on, CC On --> 12.1, 12.3 battery
4. PURPLE - +12 brakes on. 10.1, battery 12.1 brakes on. Brakes off .18 VDC
5. GREEN - +12 Set/Coast pressed. 0 VDC off. 12.2 pressed, batt 12.4. 0 VDC released.
6. YELLOW - +12 Resume/Acc pressed. 12.1, batt 12.3 pressed. 0 VDC released.
7. BLUE - ACV increase with engine RPM, red diagnostic LED blinks faster. --> Red light illuminates at cranking rpm, no start condition. (Pulse signal from coil)
8. GREY - Vehicle Speed Sensor - not used

2022-02-17 More Cruise Control Work

Permalink Submitted by dcarver on Thu, 02/17/2022 - 20:12.

Installed NOS control switch. Red B+ wired jumpered to Gray (Parking) wire so backlight LED's are on and the center LED illuminates when Power switch is activated.
Installed new control unit and servo, NOS, as a 'unit'.
Installed NOS wiring harnesses and connectors. Ran ground directly back to Blue Seas fuse block
Took voltage measurements, all looks good
1. Called AudioVox support (1-800-645-4994 option 4) to clarify Green wire position 8, 'Closed Circuit Test'. My voltage readings were backwards on this test... 0 VDC unpressed, 12.2 VDC pressed. Turns out AudioVox used two separate switch systems, the 'open' switch us motobikers use and a 'closed' switch used on some autos. The 'Closed Circuit Test' isn't applicable for my use.
Left the Blue wire, tach pulse from coil, available for testing later. To test, look at the diagnostic LED on the PCB. The cover has to be off to see it. I could not test and look at LED as the servo sits ahead of the water pipe manifold. Meaning I had to install the servo wire cover, place it where it needs to be, then install water pipe manifold and gas tank.

But, if it still doesn't work, I can access the Blue wire with ACV voltmeter. ACV should rise with RPM. I did crank the engine with tank off, and the LED did illuminate, but seemed like it stayed on and I didn't want spin the starter motor longer than needed.
Tested the vaccuum check valve, it appears to be SAT.
NOTE - after starting the bike, I later removed the vacuum line and it 'hissed' at me indicating it had a good vaccuum 'trapped'?
Read on another forum some guys had problems with 1 of the 3 vaccuum servo motors sticking. A little light oil, like 3n1, cleared the issue for them.

Tomorrow will button everything up for a test hit on Saturday.

I wonder if the CC can be engaged and tested on the centerstand?

One last thought.. Measure the 'suppressor' resistance between 2007 installation one and my NOS in the box....

2022-02-17 Cruise Control Hard Notes

Permalink Submitted by dcarver on Thu, 02/17/2022 - 20:56.

x xxxxxx

More testing

Permalink Submitted by dcarver on Fri, 03/04/2022 - 21:14.

Thanks Ray!

All VDC at 4 and 10 pin are correct, with possible exception of 0.2 VDC on Purple <brake signal>. Going to disconnect Purple and test.

Tach signal from coil appears to be SAT

This video is VAC tach signal varying w engine RPM, frequency

This is VAC w/ engine RPM

Not sure what they should be but will measure 'suppressor' resistance between installed unit and NOS.

Bought a new MightyVac and will test vacuum 'circuit'.

I did check, both rear brake light, incandescents, are SAT. Will remove the LED brake activated license plate from circuit just to troubleshoot.

?? Should the 1 way vacuum valve be with arrow pointing away from vacuum source (inlet port spigot?)

2022-03-01 Vacuum Test and Disconnected?

Permalink Submitted by dcarver on Fri, 03/04/2022 - 21:20.

Bought a MightyVac to test vacuum integrity.

Chose the right nipple, disconnected tubing at TB inlet, pumped the handle and...
NO VACUUM!

Checked the nipples again, made sure the clear MightyVac hose was tight. Still no vacuum!

And that's when I noticed the on-board vacuum line was disconnected from the servo module!

WTFO?

Did it disconnect when I removed heat shield?
Did I never connect when last working on it?

Don't know. But connected it, and she appears to be system tight.

Will test next week if possible, but I'm kinda running out of time before I go back to nuclear jail.

Oh, also added a connector so I can easlily disconnect brake lights from cruise control circuit should it still not work. e.g. can test while on the road.

Having to trailer out 5 miles really hampers the quick test ride.

2022-07-08 Back at Cruise Control problem

Permalink Submitted by dcarver on Fri, 07/08/2022 - 12:48.

Still not fixed.Things checked today.

Grounded brake light to Servo to the servo to eliminate possibility of voltage creep due to LED license plate frame..
Measure ACV from ignition coil... that provides pulses to CC servo to raise or lower throttle to keep same pulse count...
Check for vacuum leak
Check check valve for integrity
Measure vacuum with engine running

Results

Grounded servo brake wire (see pic below)
Checked entire system for vacuum leaks. Used MityVac to pull vacuum on resevoir, servo, connecting lines. At 15" Hg, vacuum dropped 2.5" Hg over 1 minute. Not sure if this good or bad. (see pic below)
Checked system minus the servo - same vacuum droop as above... meaning the servo is tight, holding vacuum
Measured vaccum from TB 1, it's 15" Hg, +/- with rpm. This seems about right...
Measured ACV and Freq from ignition pulse coil with Fluke meter

Servo brake light lead wire grounded. Verified ground using voltmeter.