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2024-06-15 Scotch Carb Rebuild Link

 

Clicky

 

Carb Kit Clicky

 

I just received a complete set of carbs from a '79 and thought some pictures and explanations of the complete tear-down and re-build may be of help to others. The pictures are self-explanatory. Part 2 of the tear-down to follow.



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More tear-down pictures:


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The tear-down continues: Some pictures may be out of apparent order !

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The carbs have been thoroughly cleaned now. Starting with a preliminary boiling (5 to 1 lemon-juice)for a full day which removed most of the grease, oil and some light varnish and scaling. The body, bowl and top-cover were then glass-bead cleaned (I have a blasting cabinet); with one exception. I DID NOT glass-bead the throttle-bores!
The throttle-plates are precision ground to fit the venturi tightly when closed. Any attempt to clean the venturi or the throttle-plates by glass-bead cleaning would ruin them by destroying the ground edge of the throttle-plates. This would make tuning and sync'ing all but impossible. The varnish was removed from the venturis and plates with a small paint brush,lacquer-thinner and a light rubbing with "Scotch-Brite". For similar reasons the slide-bores and needle-pistons were left alone with only a cleaning using lacquer-thinner and a soft cloth.
Also note the last pictures regarding the choke pick-up tube. I was lucky in finding the jet when it blew out under air-pressure cleaning. A heavy towel on my work-bench caught it and saved me a lot of additional work! I suspect the tiny split may have been from years of stress from the jet being pressed into the end. This jet is critical! Without it there is no metered flow of fuel to and through the choke passages.
The final check to assure clear-flow through all the passage ways will be done with lacquer-thinner (to dissolve and flush anything remaining in the galleries) using the syringe you saw in the previous pictures. Once confirmed flowing and clean the final polishing and painting can take place.
The Philips-heads of 2 of the carb-bowl drain-screws were in rough shape and I dislike Philips-heads anyway, so I silver-soldered a socket-head onto them. The idle-air screws will receive a similar treatment.

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Apologies if some of the pictures appear out of sequence. This entire article has been produced for those unfamiliar with these carbs although others may benefit as well. Everything described and pictured is done so with ordinary tools and supplies. (some slightly and easily modified). I have personally learned volumes from this rebuild and would appreciate any technical corrections being brought to my attention.

NOTE: The seals on the throttle shaft ends could be damaged if soaked excessively in strong cleaners such as lacquer-thinner. The use of lacquer-thinner for manual surface cleaning and gallery flushing using a syringe is OK.


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Finally got the last of the polishing done. Not "Show-Room" by any means but a huge improvement over the original condition. All the adjustments that can be pre-set have been done and now simply need to put them on my bike and sync them, set up the fast-idle/choke adjustment and tweek the idle-air screws by EGT to get each cyl. dialed in. Of course that is assuming that everything is "A" OK and the bike will actually do an intiial fire-up on them as pre-set and that they will subsequently accept the final adjustments and run as required (planned).
Since starting this project and documenting it on this forum I have discovered (as I'm certain many already are aware of) there is a wealth of info already out there that encompasses this topic in various formats and some in great general detail although specific subject matter and finer points on these Mikuni carbs. is little to none. Hopefully what i have put forth is both helpful, accurate and informative to a point of actually being useful. Even if it's only informative for one person !

#1 NOTE: There are are number of internet articles regarding the very specific design and machining of fuel jets. These articles state very emphatically that when cleaning jets, attention be paid to not changing any shape to the entry and discharge-end bevels and steps that are specifically designed into the jet for optimum fuel dispersion. This includes the smoothness of the jet bore which is factory "reamed" for smoothness and perfect symmetry - not simply drilled. When having to deal with scale and mineral build-up in our jets, soaking and ultra-sonic cleaning will not always remove this foreign material. Therefore use caution in how aggressively you remove this material "by hand". Remember: We're "cleaning" - NOT re-manufacturing these critical parts, so go-at-it gently and with discretion !

#2 NOTE: The seals on the throttle shaft ends could be damaged if soaked excessively in strong cleaners such as lacquer-thinner. The use of lacquer-thinner for manual surface cleaning and gallery flushing using a syringe is OK.

#3 NOTE:When choosing a knob for the fast idle screw mod. it's recommended the dia. not exceed 5/8" to avoid contact with the fuel-tank while operating the throttle. Insulation in the linkage travel area should be removed as well.

Cheers and Merry Christmas.

ATTENTION BILL: Sorry dude by I hijacked your "Gift" idea ! see the last photo. :P



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