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2012-02-19 RIP KrZy8



Leaving the Hondarosa for SoCal to see Dr. Hal.

Ahh, Timmie. Miss you man. I know he would have jumped in for the ride and teardown.

Followed this freaking truck through what seemed like endless hours of unrelenting traffic. Thank goodness the Dodge has an auto tranny.

..and I got your 'Elfin Magic' waiting for you!

Many thanks to Hal and Richard for the time and energy doctoring KrZy8. Truly great peeps.

My Audiovox CC settings, for future reference.

Zip-tying the cam chain. For timing, if it should slip, push the intake guide up, let chain disengage from sprocket,rotate crank to correct position. Retension chain. Always have the cams in time and zip tied to prevent that timing. For initial timing, what worked good was to get both cams in time, tension the exhaust guide side, then set crank timing.

About 100k worth of mung on the airbox facing butterfly valves. The other side perfectly clean.

Cleaned up.

Hal performing final head bolt torque. We marked the bolt cap for easy tracing of 180 degree final rotation.

Cams out. Entire engine remarkably clean for 150k miles. 

Head off. 1 on left, 4 to right. Not much carbon, really, and what was there was 'soft' carbon.

Cylinder 2 head.

Cylinder 1 head.


Wet and gooie from water intrusion. #1.

#2 IIRC.

What they should look like.


Cleaned up.


Dr. Hal caught a cam chain!

Harrd at work and out of sequence.


Rough numbers -

To fix existing motor = ~700 - 900 USD
New used 5k engine delivered $1,250


Determine water leak  
Lesco analysis 100
Borrow Ray's head 50
Head gasket 48
Head bolts 53
Timing cover gasket 5
Base gasket 30
Rings 120
Ring compressors 75
Leak down tester 100
Compression gauge 100
Shop consumables 50
Friend bribes 100
Valve cover 27



Posted 19 February 2012 - 11:15 AM

RIP KrZy8, you've been a good ride. 
Walked away :) Posted Image Is it really crashing if you don't fall down?--

I wouldn't change a fucking thing; I've lived hard, played hard, and I ain't done yet. I've paid some severe penalties along the way, but the rewards have been so much greater; even if for just have participating in the game of life with utmost abandon. It's not who rides the furthest in a day, but rather in a lifetime. CBA member #1, IBA #31845 and very proud of both.

Posted Image

#225User is offline   ionbeam 

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 11:25 AM

View Postdcarver, on 19 February 2012 - 11:15 AM, said:

RIP KrZy8, you've been a good ride.

Hey, you are scaring people here...... 

"It’s a damn poor mind that can only think of one way to spell a word." -- Andrew Jackson
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#226User is offline   RadioHowie 

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 11:37 AM

You CANNOT leave us hanging like this!!! :angry2: :angry2: :angry2:
"Screw you guys....I'm going home riding!" Darksider #15 

The whole chicken strips thing is BS. - HaulinAshe 7/29/2010

Man, there's a lot of info here if I just shut my pie hole and read. -- madmatt 8/5/2010
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#227User is online   RossKean 

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 12:09 PM

Cracked block???

The suspense is killing me. If you go for a donor motor, make sure you save the head for the next guy who grenades his engine with a failed CCT.

Post up and let us know!!


Edit to add ebay link

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#228User is offline   HotRodZilla 

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 12:14 PM

Great danger lies in the notion that we can reason with evil-Doug Patton

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#229User is offline   kaitsdad 

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 12:38 PM

Got her all back together - filled with distilled water. 

Started to do a compression check - threaded into #4 - key on - hit the starter button - 

and #1 spouted like a grey whale. 

The head apparently is cracked - most likely an internal cooling passage. You could look down the plug hole with a flashlight and see water slowly filling the cylinder. Or perhaps the block. No visible evidence of a crack when we had the head off. 

We were about 30 minutes away from starting her up. 

Compression readings - 

#1 - 40 psi

#2 - 150 psi

#3 - 150 psi

#4 - 70-90 psi. 

Krzy8 is on her way back to the Honderosa - strapped down in the trailer. 
11,031. Hugs and Kisses!

"I don't like that stuff. It makes my head all wobbly."

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 06:02 PM

Been thinking this through, 2 main issues.

1. Water into cyl 1

2. Low comp cyl 4

Possible options for water intrusion -

1. Called local auto/bike machine shop,know the owner, magnafluxing only works on ferrous materials. They can test using another method, but is expensive, and only do it for an 'ongoing shop project'. Another possibility is to machine a plate, plug all the holes, pressurize with air and dunk into tank, look for bubbles. Long of short, price tag starts at 100 and *will* go up. So no, scratch this option.

2. Use FjRay's high mileage 04 head as a test mule. Install with existing head gasket and bolts, check for leaks. If none, do repairs. Hmmm. A quick fisch look indicates the same part number for 04 and 07, but wait, the 04 part number had an older number too. The new number must reflect the change in exhaust guide seals. Not knowing what part number Ray's head is (have to assume the older number), I sure don't want to have the first gen2 ticker. :PThat plus the head would have to be refurbished, on top of paying Ray and shipping, well, no, not a good option.

When all else fails, get the napkin out and do some figguren'

Ebay currently has a 5k 08 engine for 1250 delivered to the door.

By rough numbers, it would cost 650 - 800 to repair the existing engine.

No brainer.

I found Ionbeam's wonderful post about what to ask, what to look out for, when purchasing a used engine - <clicky>

Looks like I'll be calling this guy tomorrow. 

Well, here is a long over due update on my engine. Things are moving along like fire & ice – the pace is glacial with a few angry volcano eruptions along the way.
Let me save you a long read and offer some suggestions for anyone that is engine shopping.

• Expect that it could take months and months to find an engine, you may get lucky but don't plan on it.
• If you find an engine, first thing is to get the VIN from the donor bike, the deal may stop right here
• Get copy(s) of any titles, salvage titles and/or insurance settlement paperwork because they will provide a good indication of the actual number of miles on the engine and will help with registration and sales later
• When they say the engine is bare or complete, get an explicit listing of what is and isn't coming with the engine 'cause there is no industry standard on what a 'bare' or 'complete' engine includes.
• If the engine is guaranteed, find out how that may be affected by the delay in assembly and the time to when the bike is actually being ridden.
• Ask if they are the direct seller or broker
• Get the name of the business owner and his phone number early in the deal, if the engine is being brokered, get the name and contact info for the actual seller, this way you have the contact info you will need should you have to move up the chain because of problems
• Ask if the engine has actually run since the accident, ask about damage, ask how it has been stored.
• Have the seller look in the exhaust ports for oil (don't tell them why you are asking for this check, and give them incentive to ignore a little wetness). (This is a Ticker test, per Yamaha)
• Once the engine arrives do a thorough inspection, then do a cylinder leak-down test; passing this, do a valve adjustment and verify the engine rotates smoothly
• Complete the engine and install.


Posted by IonBeam on



Vehicle Identification Number:
Description Position Raw Data Decoded Data
Region:  1 J Asia
Country:  1-2 JY Japan
Manufacturer:  2-3 YA Yamaha
Model Specific:  4-8 RP15E Unknown
Check Digit:  9 2 Valid
Year:  10 8 2008
Assembly Plant:  11 A A
Serial Number:  12-17 005389 5389






Motorcycle Engine or Frame Change Requirements

When an engine or frame is replaced, other than an engine case replacement on a motorcycle, the following is required:

The Certificate of Title or Application for Duplicate Title (REG 227).

A bill of sale or the invoice for the frame or engine (or engine case for a motorcycle). If not available, a bond may be required.

Refer to Chapter 23, Bonds and Certificates, for bond requirements.

Verification of the (new) engine number and the VIN. Use the following forms:

Application for Title or Registration/Verification of Vehicle (REG 343), OR

Verification of Vehicle (REG 31), OR

Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number (REG 124), if the application was referred to the CHP for verification.

NOTE: If the frame or engine does not have an identifying serial/VIN number, the vehicle will be referred to CHP for assignment of the number.

Enter the new engine or frame number on the title just above or below the old number.

Submit the engine change fee (CVC §9257) and any other fees due.

A penalty is due on changes reported more than 20 days from date of the change (CVC §§9553 and 9559).

There is no fee for:

replacing a frame, or

for changing to a serial number or assigned VIN when the vehicle was previously only registered by engine number.

A duplicate title fee is due if an Application for Duplicate Title (REG 227) has been submitted.


Source document here 


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