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'06 - '12 Bin O Facts (Generation II)

 

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'06 - '12 Bin O Facts (Generation II)

 

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#1 extrememarine

FJR Commander

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 05:46 PM


Accumulated Specifications, Details, and Tips for the Yamaha FJR 1300 '06-'08 (Generation II)

 

This thread was originally started and maintained by forum member Rickster in '06.  I have inherited the information and will manage updates to it going forward to ensure it remains available for the members.  If you have a suggestion for addition or editing, post at the bottom or send me a PM and I'll review whether to add or not.


As a complete document, these are posted here also: Clicky
 

How to search? Try this, from GunMD: Clicky

New Owners Read This First



Model Comparison Chart


New Purchaser Checklist
Either personally double-check or ask the dealer specifically the following things before taking acceptance of the a new FJR:

* Are the saddlebag lock latch screws Loctited? (Validated this is still an issue with '07's, and: Security Torx Bit Link Clicky)
* Did you get the Third lock with bike in case you get a Yamaha top box?
* Are the Saddlebag body color caps included?
* Is the Toolkit under seat?
* Are the steering head bearings torqued? Many '05 were loose from the factory.
* Are the Mirrors tight? More than finger tightened. Consider changing to nylocs yourself when convenient. Or, alternatively, a tip from otrfjr: use 2 layers of teflon tape (the kind plumbers use & is $1 per roll) around the bolt. otrfjr found that this worked even better than the rubber washers on the mirrors.
* Point out any/all scratches

Things to check at 600 Miles:

Drive shaft spline, most have insufficient moly
Steering head bearing torque
Oil drain bolt over-torqued from the factory
Check rear brake caliper bolts (anti-seize) Clicky

Recall/Technical Service Bulletin Info:

17-Oct-2007, Bulletin M2007-016
Affects 2006-2007 FJR1300A/AE, Poor Engine performance with change in altitude.
Parts Information: Part Number 90891-30054-00 (FJR 1300 ECU Kit, and 2 screws)
An alternate ECU can be installed to engage the altitude compensation feature with less than 1/4 throttle input.
More detailed info and excerpts from fjrtech.net Clicky

15-Aug-2006, Bulletin M2006-012.
Affects only AE models, Range: 0006 - 0327, and 0011 - 0079 California
Part Information: Part Number: 90891-20120-00 ( a kit with 2 brackets, 2 nuts, 4 bolts, 6 drill bits, and a spline to 3/8" drive indicating torque wrench adapter.)

Test Part: Pull left side cover and air box cover. Pull shift linkage from the actuator. Use the adapter to install an indicating torque wrench (or torque analyzer) -- most will use a 2-beam torque wrench. Check for movement clockwise and counter-clockwise with 29 ft-lbs of torque (never exceed 29 ft-lbs). If the shaft moves -- replace the actuator assembly.

Install brackets (2): Pull shift actuator. Lower the rear shock remote adjuster (3 nuts). Drill out the threads to 8mm on the actuators rear mount hole (ONLY ONE HOLE). Install bracket to the inside of the frame with longer provided bolt. Install bracket 2 to aft mounting hole with the bracket stud installed in the sub-frame crossover plate (existing hole). (Do not know what the torques are -- see your dealer for a copy of the bulletin). Re-install actuator shift arm to the shaft and adjust according to service manual.)

Thread discussion: Clicky
 

23-June-06, Bulletin M2006-010, The Instantaneous Fuel consumption will not go higher than 17.0 mpg
Affects 2006 FJR1300AV Range 0003:01400, and California model FJR1300AVC Range 001: 00240
Part Information: Remove and replace the meter: Meter Assembly (3P6-83500-21-00)

Manual's
Owner’s Manual, Titled: FJR13AEV © Part No.: LIT-11626-19-84
ALL Yamaha Owner’s Manual Clicky
2006 Standard Model Clicky (111 pages)
2006 AE Model Clicky (112 pages)
2007 Standard Model Clicky (111 pages)
2007 AE Model (not listed as of 4/15/07, still not listed as of 1/26/08 believed to be the same as 2006)
2008 Standard Model and AE models not listed as of 1/26/08

Service Manuals: Titled: FJR13AV © FJR13AEV© Part No.: LIT-11616-19-83
Yamaha Order link: Clicky

for 2007:
Yamaha Order link: Clicky

Yamaha OEM Parts online: Clicky



MSRP
2007 - FJR1300A $13,799 (Yamaha website) Black Cherry
2007 - FJR1300AE $15,599 (Yamaha website) Cerulean Silver
2006 - FJR1300AE $15,299 (Yamaha website) Cerulean Silver
2006 - FJR1300A $13,499 (Yamaha website) Cobalt Blue
Model Nomenclature
FJR13A 3P64 (USA)
FJR13A 3P65 (California)
FJR13AE 2D24 (USA)
FJR13AE 2D25 (California)

Vin Number Decoder:
How to decode the VIN (Vehicle ID Number): Clicky

Specifications and Notes:
87.8" Overall length
29.5" Overall width
57.1" Overall height
31.5" Seat height (Adjustable approx: 3/4"
60.8" Wheelbase
5.12" Ground clearance
122.0" Min. turning radius

Gear ratios: (thanks Ignacio)

1st: 2.529
2nd: 1.773
3rd: 1.348
4th: 1.077
5th: 0.929

Primary reduction ratio 1.563
Secondary reduction ratio 2.698 (35/37 x 21/27 x 33/9)

(About 2.7% taller than the Gen 1) 

Weight:
642# USA A model with oil & fuel, (644 CA model)
Note: Empty/bare aluminum frame for the standard (non-AE model) 2006 year weighs 28 lbs. (thanks: Fencer)

650# USA AE model with oil & fuel (653 CA model)

Maximum load
467# USA A Model (465 CA model)
459# USA AE Model (456 CA model)

Fuel:
6.61 US Gal (1.45 US Gal reserve)
Unleaded only, 87 octane is fine.

Gen II Fuel Pump part number: 5JW-13907-21-00
Gen I Fuel Pump part number : 5JW-13907-10-00

Other Mfg Specification Comparisons Thread "Full Specs of SST's" by Flyguy: Clicky

Capacities:
Engine Oil: 5.18 Qt total, 4.02 Qt without cartridge, 4.23 Qt with cartridge change

Final Drive Oil: 0.21 Qt.

Questions regarding Final Drive Oil or Shaft Gear Oil:

Yamaha specifies 9079E-SH001-00 ($19.95 / pint at FJRGoodies.com), and the specifications and grade are not listed on the Yamaha shaft gear oil.  Others have used Mobil 1® Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-140 API GL-5, or the Pennzoil from Wal-Mart (marine synthetic gear drive oil 75/90W from Pennzoil for $6.95 a quart).  Valvoline Full Synthetic Gear Oil SAE 75W-90.  $10 for 32 oz. at AutoZone


Sidecases
Capacity (each): 30 liters according to European website references.  29.2 liters +/-1 liter according to Ignacio measurement.

Oil Filter Info:
O.E.M. Oil cartridge filter: Denso 115010-5980, (Yamaha equiv. P/N 5JW-13440-00)
Size: Believed to be 20mm X 1.4mm threads 2.3" O.D. Gasket, 2.5" length

Other recommended 2.5" Length Car Oil Cartridges/Filters:
Purolator Pure One PL14612 (about $6, actually a car filter)
Mobil-1 M1-108 (about $12, actually a car filter)
Bosch 3300 (about $6, actually a car filter)
Fram PH7317 (from Renegade)

(Pending Review and Update due to recent manufacturing change 3/3/16) 

Other recommended 3.25" Length Car Oil Cartridges/Filters:
Purolator Pure One PL14610
Mobil-1 M1-110
Bosch 3323

HiFlo Filtro #HF148 Premium Oil Filter – rbentnail 10/14/13


Per ponyfool, although the Purolator number cross-references to Napa Gold 1365 (mfg: Wix), the gasket and the threads are nearly level with one another, thus when screwed on as far as it would go, the gasket never touched the engine, it stayed out about 1/16".

Oil Filter Article Clicky

Ignition Keys:

Equivalent part numbers: Ilco YM63, Taylor X248, Curtis YM63,Silca YH35R
Same blank is used for: Yamaha: YZF, FJR, FZR, FZ1, R1, GTS, XJ, V Star, Road Star, Royal Star, Venture, F1, Warrior & TT-R models - 1993+. Vino Scooter 2001+.

Other Keys: Givi V46: Taylor X76

Cooling System:
Total Coolant System: 2.75 Qt, (0.69 Qt radiator capacity, 0.26 Qt reservoir capacity)
Thermostat: NIPPON model 4FM, Opening at 156 - 163 °F, Full Open at 185 °F
Coolant Temp Sensor: 290–354 Ohm (Ω) at 176 °F

Bar Graph:
There are 10 segments on the coolant temperature bar graph/display for Gen II FJR's. (Gen 1's have 6 bars)

Estimated bar to temperature conversion (otrfjr) (i.e. using the '05 values and dividing by 10)
Basis: If 1 bar = 104 (degrees Fahrenheit) and 6 bars = 248; for 10 bars >> then 248-104 = 144/10 = 14.4/per bar.

Estimations based on Gen 1 data:

1 = 104.0 - 118.4 (deg. F)
2 = 118.5 - 132.9
3 = 133.0 - 147.4
4 = 147.5 - 161.9
5 = 162.0 - 176.4
6 = 176.5 - 190.9
7 = 191.0 - 205.4
8 = 205.5 - 219.9
9 = 220.0 - 234.4
10= 234.5 - 249.9+
---------------
Discussion Clicky

Ambient Temperature Sensor Location

Pics link:  http://kaitsdad.smug...116986686-L.jpg

Thread link:  http://www.fjrforum....wtopic=15072



Windshield Screws:
"Plastic" some say nylon, Polycarbonate, Polypropylene, or perhaps glass Fiber 50% Reinforced Polyamide.
Size Corrected by "Lake_Powell" size is M5 X 0.80 pitch 18mm Length (was: 25mm length)
Plastic screw post clicky McMaster Carr link: Clicky
Yamaha P/N: 90150-05024-00 Total: 7 Approx price: 120 Yen (1.00 USD) each
Windshield auto-retract disconnect: Clicky

Windshield Removal: Remove the 2 screws under the W bracket first. Then the 7 plastic M5-.80 screws holding the windshield on. Clicky
More detailed instructions with pictures: Clicky



Adjustable Middle Fairing: Clicky for Pics
Allows warm air to be directed on or away from the rider.
Highly debated as to which position is for summer and winter, the bottom line is that it does not make anything cooler.
The adjustable middle fairings change the direction of the warm air, but does not reduce heat.
In the 'In' position, the stream of warm air is closer to the FJR, and with the 'Out' position, the stream is about 2-3" farther away from the FJR at the rider's peg.

Spark Plugs:
NGK CR8E or DENSO U24ESR-N (GAP: 0.028" - 0.031")
From the '03 - '05 world: "The cat's ass spark plugs = Brand: NGK, Part Number: CR8EIX, Stock Number: 4218 (About $6 each) and likely last 16K miles. An alternative = NGK CR8VX" These plugs have not been verified to be cat's assy yet for the '06.

Wheels/Tires
Front wheel, Cast Aluminum: Rim size 17M/C × MT3.50
Wheel travel 5.31"; Radial wheel run out limit 0.04"; Lateral wheel runout limit 0.02"

Front Tire 120/70 ZR17M/C (58W) Tubeless
OEM: METZELER/Roadtec Z6G -OR- BRIDGESTONE/BT020F (Wear limit 0.04")

Rear wheel, Cast Aluminum: Rim size 17M/C × MT5.50
Wheel travel 4.92"; Radial wheel runout limit 0.04", Lateral wheel runout limit 0.02"

Rear Tire: 180/55 ZR17M/C (73W) Tubeless
OEM: METZELER/Roadtec Z6C -OR- BRIDGESTONE/BT020R (Wear limit 0.04")

Tires recommended by others:
Avon AV45 ST 120/70ZR-17 Front * Avon AV46 ST 180/55ZR-17 Rear
Michelin Pilot Road 120/70ZR-17 Front & Michelin Pilot Road 180/55ZR-17 Rear
Pirelli Strada E's, (Try searching for TIRES)

Link to Southwest Moto Tires: Clicky

Repairing on the road:
Progressive Suspensions TRK-2 Plug Kit and Campbell and Hausfeld RP1200 Stripped Down Compressor from Wal-Mart for $9.96.
Also: Innovations brand original "Ultraflate" CO2 inflator Clicky (you need to carry at least 4 CO2 cartridges) in addition to tire patch kit

Rear Wheel Remove/Install 03/04 described, same for '06 Clicky

How to change your own tires, changing tires: Clicky

Mojo Lever: Clicky

Mojo and Marc Parnes balancer pictures: Clicky

Fred Harmon's how to with pictures: Clicky


19mm (Front Axle) source Clicky
Also the back of some spark plug sockets work great for the front 19mm (just put it on an extender backwards) Clicky

Brakes
ROTOR:
2003 is 298mm
2004-2006 is 320mm

Front BrakePads (kit)
Each front caliper requires 4 pads, so you need 8pads total to replace all front pads.
OEM Part SKU# 3P6-W0045-00-00. This brake pad kit includes 2 pads and retails for about $70.  EBC HH sintered Part SKU# FA423/4HH. Unlike the OEM kit, EBC's kit includes 4 pads and a kit goes for about $50.  (note that many on-line sites incorrectly list SKU#FA417/4HH. This SKU WILL NOT FIT the Gen II FJR)

Rear Brake Pads (kit)
OEM Part SKU# 3P6-W0046-50-00, retails for about$50.
EBC HH sintered Part SKU# FA319/2HH (order 1 set),about $30.

Brake support pad 
Front OEM Part SKU# 3P6-25919-00-00 Retail about$20 You'd need 4 total to do the front. It's not clear how many come in a package.
Rear OEM Part SKU# 5JW-25919-00-00 Retail about$5. You'd need 2 to do the back.
Gary McCoy recommended to a forum member that this pad be replaced with the brake pads.

According to some forum posts the EBC sintered pads do not wear as long as the OEM pads and may cause extra wear on the rotor.  EBC does not make an organic pad for the FJR.
More EBC info in THIS POST. 


Electrical
ECU: Mitsubishi FUA0010
Ignition Coil: Denso JO383
AC Magneto: Denso LNX07, 14.0 Volts, 590 Watts at 5000 r/min (prior years 490 watts)
From Iggy: Watts = Volts x Amps. So we know power in watts for a Gen II is 590 watts. We know the produced voltage without a major load is about 14 volts. So amps are 590/14 = 42.
Stator coil resistance 0.13–0.19 Ω at 68 °F

Battery: GT14B-4 j (12 Amp Hour (AH))
OEM: Manufacturer GYM
Good Replacement: http://www.westcobattery.com

Headlight:
OEM Headlight: 12 V, 60 W/55.0 W × 2
Headlight relay: Matsushita ACM33211 M05 (R= 96.0 Ω) 
Hi/Lo beam headlight relay verified correct as SKU: 5DM-81950-00-00 (thanks dcarver)
Tail/brake light: 12 V, 5.0 W/21.0 W × 2
Front turn signal/position light: 12 V, 21 W/5.0 W × 2 (#7443 at auto stores, thanks OhioFJR1300)
Rear turn signal light: 12 V, 21.0 W × 2
License plate light: 12 V, 5.0 W × 1
Horn: 3 Amp

Heated Grips
For power consumption, See Iggy's '03-05 Bin-O-Facts for Clothing wattage: Clicky

Many have installed HeatTrollers for grip control.
Installing HeatTroller in the Left Handlebar: Clicky

In 2006, the FJR1300AE models were blessed with OEM grip heaters. The Gen II controller power the same grip watt level, but they have added a power management system to it. The OEM grip heater circuit monitors engine speed (RPM) and varies power with speed – at zero mph (low RPM) you get zero heat, and zero drain on the electrical system (as the RPM is not high enough). As the RPM increases above 3K (speculation on the number), the controller provides full power to the grips. Details: It is believed to be that Yamaha has gone from a 'level comparator' controller to a one chip solution using a 555 timer.

Fuses:
Main Fuse........................................50A
Glovebox..........................................2.0 A
Headlight fuse..................................25.0 A
Signaling system fuse.......................15.0 A
Ignition fuse.....................................10.0 A
Radiator fan fuse..............................15.0 A (qty 2)
Auxiliary DC jack fuse........................3.0 A
Hazard fuse......................................10.0 A
Fuel injection system fuse..................15.0 A
ABS motor fuse................................30.0 A
ABS control unit fuse.........................10.0 A
YCC-S motor control fuse..................30.0 A (AE model only)

Torque:
Generic:

NUT: BOLT FT-LB
10 mm 6 mm 4.3
12 mm 8 mm 11
14 mm 10 mm 22
17 mm 12 mm 40
19 mm 14 mm 61
22 mm 16 mm 94

Specific:

ft-lb: Application
------- ---------------
9.4 Spark Plug (same as prior models)

7.2 M6 - Coolant drain bolt
31. M14 Oil drain bolt (same as prior models)   ** See notes in 'No-Hassle FJR1300 Oil Change' section of this post – members have stripped the oil pan threads by tightening the fastener to 31 ft/lbs.  Varies threads have been created about this – please do your research and a dose of common sense; this is a steel bolt threaded into a aluminum oil pan (soft threads) – it will strip out very easily.


12. M20 - Oil filter cartridge
8.7 M6 - Oil cooler bolt
8.7 M6 - Oil pan bolt (qty 20)

66 Front Axle (prior models 52 ft-lbs)
15 Front Axle pinch bolts (prior models 17 ft-lbs)
29 Front Brake caliper bolt
22 Front wheel sensor bolt (ABS Sensor)

90 Rear Axle (same as prior models)
17 Rear Axle Pinch bolts (prior models at 11 ft-lbs)
19 Rear Brake caliper bolt
22 Rear wheel sensor bolt (ABS Sensor)
22 Rear brake torque rod nut

17 Final gear oil (Rear Drive) drain and filler bolt

85 ft-lbs (nut size 36mm) Steering Stem Nut Cap Nut
37 Lower stem nut initial tightening
13 Lower stem nut final tightening

17 Handlebar bolts (inboard)
47 Handlebar nut (outboard)

Engine Mount Torques:
ft-lb:Size: Description
35: M12: Engine mounting bolts (right front lower side)
35: M12: Engine mounting bolts (right front upper side)
35: M12: Engine mounting bolts (left front lower side)
35: M12: Engine mounting bolts (left front upper side)
32: M10: Engine mounting nut (rear upper side)
13: M16: Spacer bolt
32: M10: Engine mounting bolt (rear lower side)
11: M8: Engine mounting bolt (left rear side)
23: M10: Engine bracket bolt (left rear side)
11: M8: Engine bracket bolt (top)
27: M10: Engine mounting bolt (top)

Engine Mount Torques (in sequence of operation)
ft-lb: description
35: Left Front Upper Side engine mount BOLT
32: Rear Lower Side engine mount BOLT
13: Spacer Bolt (right side top, special tools required)
32: Rear upper side engine mounting NUT (threads oiled)

35: Left Front Lower Side Engine mounting bolt (Typical Slider Installation Bolt (torque the Left side First)
35: Right Front Upper Side Engine mounting bolt
35: Right Front Lower Side Engine mounting bolt (Typical Slider Installation Bolt (torque the Right side last)

17: Front Side pinch bolts
17: Rear Side pinch bolts


15: Tail Rack/Luggage Rack bolts

AE Specific Torques:
5.1 M6 Clutch fluid reservoir bolt
13 M8 Clutch actuator bracket bolt
7.2 M6 Clutch actuator bracket bolt
7.2 M6 Gear position sensor cover
2.9 M5 Gear position sensor screw
6.5 M5 Gear position sensor bracket
14 M8 Shift actuator front bolt
14 M8 Shift actuator rear bolt
7.2 M6 Shift rod bolt
7.2 M8 Shift rod bolt
5.1 M6 Shift rod front locknut
7.2 M8 Shift rod rear locknut
2.9 M5 Foot shift switch screw
7.2 M6 Front shift arm bolt


Suspension
(NOT checked for '06, but recommended for '03 - '05)
Front preload: Many like 2 to 2.5 rings showing per Warchild

From SportRider, the complete article and tuning guide Clicky

Front spring compression (lines showing): SR:2, WC:2-2.5, JA:2
Rebound clicks out SR:4 JA:6
Compression clicks out SR:7 JA:8

Rear preload - SR:Hard JA:Hard
Rear Rebound clicks out SR:3 JA:6
(rear compression is not adjustable on stock shock)

SR - Sport Rider recommendation
WC - Warchild info
JA - JeffAshe settings JeffAshe clicky

Spring rates and conversions (Thanks FJRFencer):

1 N/mm = 5.724 lb/in (springrate)
1 N-m(torque) = 8.85 lb-in (torque)

From Lee At Traxxion
There are two shock springs on the Gen1 and Gen2 FJR.
Specific to Lee's experience with the '05 (Gen1) and '06 (Gen2):

(Gen 1) '05 has a short 1400 lb/in spring AND a longer 670 lb spring.
On the soft setting, the two springs are used in series and provide a 440 lb/inch rating.
On the hard setting, the short spring is locked out and the single 670 lb spring is used.

(Gen II) '06 has a short 1800 lbs/inch spring AND the same 670 lb longer rate spring as the Gen I.
Learned from testing and measuring the (Gen II) '06 shock: The soft setting was upped from the Gen I to make it more useful to a wider range of riders while the hard setting was left unchanged from Gen I.
(Physical dimensions were exactly the same on the '05 Gen 1 and the '06 Gen II)


Paint

Paint code updates prior to 2008
So Far -- Yamaha has not released the paint codes for the 2006 or 2009, and refers you to Color Rite.

ColorRite for '07: ColorRite for '07: Clicky
Very Dark Red Metallic #2 (VDRM2) Code: 0957, Top Coat: 5200

ColorRite for '06: Clicky
Bluish Silver (BS#4) Top Coat: 5800-2
Cobalt Blue (DPBMU) Base Coat: 1254, Top Coat: 5254

Alternate for darker grey (thanks Dan23) on engine (alternator cover, etc.): Dupli-Color E8800564, dark grey metallic.

Alternate for Cobalt Blue (thanks garauld the paint guru):
PPG Deltron 2000 BC/CC recipe #114042 (may be slightly darker)
PPG #114042 "Mystic Blue" match looks perfect to Dan23

Do-It-Yourself Mix: (thanks well-respected paint guy garauld   with PPG Deltron BC/CC for Cerulean Silver:
Paint Code...Color..................Parts:
DMD1687.....MED. ALUM.......116.5
DMD1683.....BLACK...............27.1
DMD1682.....COARSE ALUM..27.6
DMD614.......BLUE.................17.4
DMD624.......VIOLET...............7.2
DMD646.......WK WHITE..........3.8
DMD1607......BLUE..................2.5
DBX1689.......CLEAR................48.0
('The match is very close')

Alleged match according to JT 384.
Black Matallic X (SMX) 0903
Top Coat (clear) 5245

Paint code updates: 2008>>> factory recommends: www.colorrite.com

Code: 0903
PaintName: Black Metallic X (SMX)
Comment: none
ColorRiteTop: 5245

Code: 1086
PaintName: Dark Gray Metallic G
Comment: Automatic Model
ColorRiteTop: 5205

Code: 0035 
PaintName: Silver (SL)
Comment: Frame/Engine Color
ColorRiteTop: 5616

Code: 0895
PaintName: Silver #8 (S8)
Comment: Wheel Color
ColorRiteTop: 5265

Code: 0791
PaintName: Silver #3 (S3)
Comment: Subframe Color
ColorRiteTop: 5175-2 

Paint code updates: 2009>>> factory recommends: www.colorrite.com

Code: 0821
PaintName: Dark Gray Metallic A (DNMA)
Comment: Two-Tone Silver Model
ColorRiteTop: 5180

Code: 0791
PaintName: Silver #3 (S3)
Comment: Two-Tone Silver Model
ColorRiteTop: 5175-2

Code: 0903
PaintName: Black Metallic X (SMX)
Comment: none
ColorRiteTop: 5245

Servicing:
Yamaha OEM Parts online: Clicky

Genuine Yamaha Parts catalog: Clicky
Click on the "Proceed to Parts Catalog" button (lower right) and follow the prompts entering Motorcycle, Year, Model, etc.

Parts:
For history purposes, and keyword searching, Gary McCoy, Mike Kolstat University Motors UMotors.
UMotors policy change affects their pricing. Thread discussion: Clicky
Gary McCoy is no longer at UMotors. Thread discussion: Clicky

online parts sources: Clicky (thanks madmike2)

or you can try one of these preferred dealers: Clicky

Air Filters:
K&N air filter # YA-1301 Mfg application Link: Clicky
UNI air filter # NU-3255

HiFlo Filtro HFA4912 Premium OE Replacement Air Filter – per rbentnail.
Emgo # 12-95842 - per rbentnail


Grease:
Mobil 1 Synthetic and either comes in a tub at local autoparts stores or as a cartridge, recommended by forum members.

Fork Oil (all you wanted to know about suspension oil) Clicky

IBA Tool Kit link Clicky

Steering Bearings:
Steering Spanner wrench: Yamaha P/N: YU-33975, K&L P/N: KL-0201D, BikeJohnny

P/N: YA10-90-020-00
Tapered Bearing Discussion Clicky
Service Article Clicky by Mark Johnson
All Balls Racing Tapered Steering Head Bearings from JimLor: Clicky

Handle Bars:
Handle Bar POSITION Modification (there are three position) Clicky by Wicked Webby
Handle Bar ANGLE Modifications (removing the pins): Clicky by chornbe

Wheels/ Differentials/Brakes:
Rear Wheel Removing/Installing (FJRTech.net) Clicky

Final Drive/Driveshaft/Differential information Clicky
Final Drive (Differential some call it) drain crush washer part number is: 214-11198-01 and this same crush washer used for the engine oil drain plug.

Changing the Rear Brake Pads(03HiYoSilver, 2003 model year shown) Clicky

Raising front end easy method: Clicky
Raising front end tricky method: Clicky


Photo's of how to get under the fuel tank for TBS/spring release, etc.:
Rickster's 1000th post: Clicky

Oil Change:
2006 Step by Step 600 Mile service Clicky

No-Hassle FJR1300 Oil Change Clicky
Notes:
Several have posted issues with the 31 ft-lb Yamaha specified oil drain bolt torque (i.e. 'stripping' the threads). Also several posts on factory believed to have over tightened the oil drain bolt.
Tip: Copper replacement if you chose not to use OEM oil drain crush washer:
Auto part store: 1/2" 12MM O.S. (M14) DRN. Plug Gasket Skew: 0 80358 18128
OEM oil drain crush washer part number is: 214-11198-01 and this same gasket fits the shaft drive drain plug 

Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs (thanks to 03HiYoSilver):
Gen I is p/n: 3JL-13455-00-00 PLUG
Gen II is p/n 90340-14004-00 PLUG, Description: STRAIGHT SCREW (#28 on Yamaha's parts online)
Thread Discussion with some first drain pics: Clicky

Throttle Body Syncronization (TBS) :
FJRTech's article on how to do a TBS (Throttle Body Sync) Clicky
Broodwich's pictorial on how to do a TBS Clicky
Jestal's alternative TBS (Throttle Body Sync ) Clicky
Rickster's homemade differential manometer for TBS (Throttle Body Sync) Clicky


Wiring Diagrams:
Electrical Schematics were removed.

Main Fuze / Main Fuse:
How to replace the Main Fuse Clicky

Ignition Switch / Ignition Failure:
Several have had issues with the Ignition Switch failure. Thread Discussion: Clicky
Step By Step do it yourself repair from Daily Commuter: Clicky

Some have noted problems with the ignition switch having failures (search for Ignition Failures)
A solution may be to add a 70Amp relay inline so the current through the ignition is limited: Clicky


Throttle Position Sensor:
Replacing the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Clicky
(compliments of ionbeam)

Clutch:
The clutch slave cylinder was re-designed on the Gen II, and many have found better clutch action by replacing the slave cylinder with a Gen I clutch slave cylinder. JeffAshe's link: Clicky

How to soak the clutch. Some 2008 models are claimed to have a dry clutch.: Clicky

Chip Controlled Clutch (YCC-S):
Operation: Clicky
Note: If the YCC-S indicator comes on (next to the shift) shifting will not be possible

Clutch Engagement Adjustment: Clicky

Shift Actuator and Shift Rod Linkage: Clicky

Diagnostic Mode:
(Appears to be the same for '03 - '05)

To enter Diagnostic Mode: Have the key turned off (kill switch on) and press the Select and Reset together. Turn the key to on and hold the buttons for about 8 seconds. A screen will apear that reads "d1 AG". release the buttons.
(so far, same as prior models)

Use the "SELECT" select "Co" adjustment or the diagnostic mode "d1 AG". Press Select and Reset for 2 seconds. "d:01" should appear on the clock if you did everything right.
Press "SELECT" for the next code, Press "RESET" for the previous code.
Codes go from d:01 to d:70 -- go buy a manual for the codes.

Note: Lean Angle Sensor (Overturned Motorcycle) Fault code: 30
Scroll through the diagnostic codes to:
61 (the history of fault codes). If you see a 0 at the bottom right then there are no trouble codes. However if you see a number 30 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 30 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62 (erase history code). Then turn the kill switch off, then back on again. This will erase this and any other codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the big book from FJR Goodies to problem solve or take it to your dealer.

Y.E.S. Factory Warranty (Yamaha Extended Service Plan)
$389 from D&H Cycle, 18115 US Hwy 31, Cullman, AL 35058, 256-739-1840, 888-553-3311
YES coverage can be bought from one dealer and apply to any other dealer fairly easily.
The one exception are Florida residents. That state is totally screwed up and passed a law that residents can only get insurance from in-state agents.

What will void the Warranty? ( Google: Magnuson-Moss Act) Business Guide: Clicky Link Thread Discussion (oil related) Clicky
From Headude (May 21, 2007):
If you purchase through the special Yamaha financing promotion you can get an extra $25 off the Y.E.S. plan.
If you use Yamaha's special financing promotion to buy, in about 7-10 days you get a "credit card" in the mail with a coupon for $25 off the extended service plan.
There is a deadline to take advantage of the offer, so check all dates on all paperwork/coupons, etc.

Issues:

Windshield Whistling Clicky
Instant MPG shows 17, Yamaha working a fix Clicky

Farkles and Mods

Good resource: Clicky for FJRTechFarkes

Source for custom FJR1300 farkle hardware is *** website: 

Horns
The stock horns are wimpy. The popular farkle is to upgrade to Magnum Blasters. Sometimes they're hard to find and may also be marketed as "Freeway Blasters" Part #72112 and # 72102 for the low and high version. They are supposedly made by FIAMM and likely are regulated by U.S. and the E.U. I got mine at a Schucks and are reported to be carried at Napa as "FIAMM Blasters".

Discussion on the merits of adding a relay or wiring harness: this discussion
and here: FJRandy wiring harness
Magnum Blaster Horn Install: Clicky

Randy's Horn Harness: Clicky

Sliders etc.:
*** Frame Sliders: 

Side Bags:
Toecutter Saddlebag/Side bag safety pin: Clicky

Highway Pegs:

Wild Bills highway peg brackets FJR Vendor Section: Clicky, FJR-Tips.org link: Clicky
Some have put the Kuryakin #7996 Offset Mounts with the #8002 Pegs for pictures: Clicky
Garuld offers to powder coat the Wild Bill brackets: Clicky

Lriders highway pegs: Clicky

Lights:
John_Dumke Hella FF 50 install: Clicky

Luggage:
Custom Luggage Racks by Garauld: Clicky
Adding Helmet Guardian pieces to Garaulds Rack to lock your helmet by TheAxeman: Clicky

Custom Luggage Racks by OHFJR: Clicky
OHFJR's helmet guardian lock kit for the OHFJR luggage Racks: Clicky

Rickster's Givi and/or Cortech Tail bag setup: Clicky
Rickster's Helmet Guardian added to OHFJR's Rack: General: Clicky Piece Parts: Clicky
OHFJR's/Premier's Rack and Givi E250 Plate: Clicky

daddysbike post on the SW-Motech Rack with Givi V46 install: Clicky

Helmet Locks:
TownsendsFJR1300 Helmet Guardian mount: Clicky

How to rekey re-key Helmet Guardian cylinders to the Yamaha Ignition Key (compliments of Fred H.) pictorial Clicky
A different approach, but also re-keying the cylinders (comliments of Harald) Clicky

Mirrors: 
Many prefer the FZ1 mirrors to the OEM mirrors. Comparison: Clicky

Throttle Locks / Cruise Control:
Locks:

Brakeaway (although marketed as cruise control, is a throttle lock) Company Website: Clicky

NEP Throttle Lock: Clicky
NOTE: The AE model has a larger throttle sleeve diameter, and the NEP CC-3 requires substantial modification to install on an AE model.

ThrottleMeister: Verified to fit: FH & AH-R1 and FH & AH-R1 H (for heavy fits) '06 A and AE models (thanks SMC, nosecone, Rick M. OhioFJR1300) Company Website: Clicky
Application for 2001-2007 FJR1300 called out as: Standard: FT & AY-R1 , Heavy: FH & AY-R1-H 
Thread on discussion of Throttlemeister, G2, Heated Grips, and GripPuppies: Clicky
Installation notes from ELP_JC: Clicky

Vista Cruise: Clicky

Homemade Throttle Lock/ (Home Depot Cruise Control from Checkswrecks: Clicky

Cheap Homemade Throttle Lock from jestal: Clicky

Cruise Control:
Some use Audiovox CCS100 for cruise control (not to be confused with a throttle lock)
Audiovox Cruise Control offer from Smitty: Clicky
Audiovox Cruise Install Pictoral from atl dave: Clicky

Specifically designed cruise control for the FJR 1300 (to include the AE model) is the Motor Cycle Cruise (MCC)
marketed here: Clicky and the specifics for the FJR are here: Clicky
Smitty's comments are here: Clicky

Throttle Spring:
Many complain of the Throttle Return Spring causing the throttle to be too hard to twist or complain of pain to the right wrist.
Throttle Center Spring Release Clicky
An idea as to how to rewind the center spring Clicky

Throttle Pulley Pic's with Fred H's copper wire mod (to reduce the cam effect): Clicky

Alternative method to reduce the cam effect (G2 Ergo Cam) Part # "Tube/400Y cam for Yamaha FJR 1300 Sport Bike"
Thread discussion: Clicky

Barbarian Jumper Mod / CO Setting:
Barbarian Jumper Mod (allows fuel injector mapping adjustment/CO setting changes)

Jon's excellent BJM (Barbarian Jumper Modification) pictorial is found here: Clicky

Typically '06 and '07's are factory set to: 5, 18, 18, 21,
and at least two 2008's are reported to be factory set at: 10,10,10,10. Thread discussion: Clicky

* NOTE: link shows instructions for '03 model, but for Gen II (2006-2007) --
-- the general instructions are the same.
-- just remove the white plug out of 25, move the wire from 23 to 25, and put the white plug in 23 Clicky


Power Commander III Map thread: Clicky
Power Commander website downloads: Clicky

Suspension:
How to replace stock rear with Ohlins shock: Clicky
(Although a non-Gen II is shown, you get the idea!)


Misc.
Etymology of "Farkle", search Ignacio's Bin-O-Facts Clicky

extrememarine
IBA#60836

 

My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

#2 extrememarine

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 05:56 PM

If you have a url for one of the broken links, please PM me and I'll make the edits to the 1st post.

extrememarine
IBA#60836

 

My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

#3 CHIA

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 11:10 PM

Great resource! 

#4 andy14

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 01:31 AM

Many thanks

I can see alot of your time has gone into that

#5 rbentnail

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 05:51 PM

Please add:

 

- in the oil filter section; 3.25" length, HiFlo Filtro #HF148 Premium Oil Filter.

 

- in the capacities section, questions about final drive oil; Valvoline Full Synthetic Gear Oil SAE 75W-90.  $10 for 32 oz. at AutoZone

Quote

I think sometimes folks are just a little too anal about oils & filters & coolant & specs & torque & batteries & spark plugs & reed valves & tires & brakes & shift levers & CCTs & light bulbs & winterizing & cleanliness & splines & trailering & clothing & gas mileage & stuff.

groundspider.jpg      9TDPSas.jpg

 

Russ- Darksider #64

#6 extrememarine

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 08:23 PM

space for test posts.

extrememarine
IBA#60836

 

My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

#7 extrememarine

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 09:52 AM

FYI - Rickster has provided me a copy of the bin'o'facts file that has most of the hyperlinks in place.  I will get that edit done by next weekend and repost.  

 

I also wanted to ensure everyone knows that the information in this thread was originally started and managed by forum member Rickster.  I have inherited this thread and plan to continue the work started by Rickster - this is a very important resource for Gen 2 FJR owners to have access to, the intent is to keep it that way.

 

Thanks,

 

Wayne

extrememarine
IBA#60836

 

My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

#8 Dutch

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 12:50 PM

Thank you for taking the time and energy to do this.

#9 RaYzerman19

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 09:06 AM

Temperature display, Gen II, for those that might want to know..... Canadian and EU FJR's display Celsius only, US bikes Fahrenheit as we already know, but the display has only two digits.  The coldest my Canadian bike displays is -9C, as there is only room for the minus sign and the 9.... even though I've verified this at temperatures lower than -9, the display does not change or go blank like some bikes.  I am assuming that means the US bikes go to -9F.  Further assuming max temperatures are 99C.  Do US bikes display more than 99F?  I do not know anything about Gen 1 or III in this regard..........

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#10 RossKean

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 09:24 AM

Pretty sure a US bike will display over 99 °F. Don't know about temperatures below -9 °F and hope I don't have to find out!

groundspider.jpgYN3DYrL.jpg

#11 dcarver

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 09:50 AM

US Gen 2 will read > 99F -

DSC02437.JPG

    Walked away Posted ImagePosted Image Is it really crashing if you don't fall down?--
    I wouldn't change a fucking thing; I've lived hard, played hard, and I ain't done yet. I've paid some severe penalties along the way, but the rewards have been so much greater; even if for just have participating in the game of life with utmost abandon. It's not who rides the furthest in a day, but rather in a lifetime. CBA member #1, IBA #31845 and very proud of both.
    Posted Image

    #12 extrememarine

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    Posted 04 December 2013 - 07:40 PM

    Update - I've started to get the URL links put in - first two pages done tonight.  More to follow; Big thanks to Rickster for sending me the original document with the links.  

    extrememarine
    IBA#60836

     

    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #13 richsp51

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    Posted 05 December 2013 - 11:48 AM

    Currently, there's a Capacities section that specifies engine oil amount with and without filter change as well as a discussion about Final Drive Oil or Shaft Gear Oil but nothing about engine oil itself. There's also  an Oil Filter Info  section, but there is nothing regarding the Yamaha specified Engine Oil Info.

     

     

     

    Suggest adding a Engine Oil Info section, something like: (per the owners manual for FJR13AW©  )

     

     

    Yamaha specifies the following-

    Type:

       YAMALUBE 4 (20W40) or SAE20W40

    Recommended engine oil grade:

       API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA

     

     

    As I understand that engine oil is hotly debated topic, perhaps you could add an  " Engine Oil Article Clicky" as well.

    2007 Yamaha FJR1300A

    2001 Suzuki Bandit 600S

    #14 rbentnail

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    Posted 26 January 2014 - 06:59 PM

    Please add to the air filter section:  HiFlo Filtro HFA4912 Premium OE Replacement Air Filter

      

    Quote

    I think sometimes folks are just a little too anal about oils & filters & coolant & specs & torque & batteries & spark plugs & reed valves & tires & brakes & shift levers & CCTs & light bulbs & winterizing & cleanliness & splines & trailering & clothing & gas mileage & stuff.

    groundspider.jpg      9TDPSas.jpg

     

    Russ- Darksider #64

    #15 Rickster

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    Posted 31 January 2014 - 03:22 PM

    Clicky Help for updates:

     

    Other Mfg Specification Comparisons Thread "Full Specs of SST's" by Flyguy:

    http://www.fjrforum....wtopic=20944

    -------------

     

    Per ponyfool, although the Purolator number cross-references to Napa Gold 1365 (mfg: Wix), the gasket and the threads are nearly level with one another, thus when screwed on as far as it would go, the gasket never touched the engine, it stayed out about 1/16".

    Oil Filter Article 

    http://www.calsci.co...fo/Filters.html

    ----------------------------

    Estimations based on Gen 1 data:

    1 = 104.0 - 118.4 (deg. F)
    2 = 118.5 - 132.9
    3 = 133.0 - 147.4
    4 = 147.5 - 161.9
    5 = 162.0 - 176.4
    6 = 176.5 - 190.9
    7 = 191.0 - 205.4
    8 = 205.5 - 219.9
    9 = 220.0 - 234.4
    10= 234.5 - 249.9+
    ---------------
    Discussion

    http://www.fjrforum....rs/#entry215294

     

    Ambient Temperature Sensor Location

    Pics link:  http://kaitsdad.smug...116986686-L.jpg

    Thread link:  http://www.fjrforum....wtopic=15072

    Regards, Rick
    Seeking new FJR!

    #16 extrememarine

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    Posted 31 January 2014 - 08:54 PM

    Done - Thanks!!

     

    Clicky Help for updates:


    Done as well. Thanks

     

    Please add to the air filter section:  HiFlo Filtro HFA4912 Premium OE Replacement Air Filter

    extrememarine
    IBA#60836

     

    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #17 extrememarine

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    Posted 31 January 2014 - 08:55 PM

    Working on this - I will add only what is in the owners manual(s).  What year is your info from?  I know the 2009 is different (20w50).

     

    Currently, there's a Capacities section that specifies engine oil amount with and without filter change as well as a discussion about Final Drive Oil or Shaft Gear Oil but nothing about engine oil itself. There's also  an Oil Filter Info  section, but there is nothing regarding the Yamaha specified Engine Oil Info.

     

     

     

    Suggest adding a Engine Oil Info section, something like: (per the owners manual for FJR13AW©  )

     

     

    Yamaha specifies the following-

    Type:

       YAMALUBE 4 (20W40) or SAE20W40

    Recommended engine oil grade:

       API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA

     

     

    As I understand that engine oil is hotly debated topic, perhaps you could add an  " Engine Oil Article Clicky" as well.

    extrememarine
    IBA#60836

     

    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #18 richsp51

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 08:36 AM

    Working on this - I will add only what is in the owners manual(s).  What year is your info from?  I know the 2009 is different (20w50).

     

    Currently, there's a Capacities section that specifies engine oil amount with and without filter change as well as a discussion about Final Drive Oil or Shaft Gear Oil but nothing about engine oil itself. There's also  an Oil Filter Info  section, but there is nothing regarding the Yamaha specified Engine Oil Info.

     

     

     

    Suggest adding a Engine Oil Info section, something like: (per the owners manual for FJR13AW©  )

     

     

    Yamaha specifies the following-

    Type:

       YAMALUBE 4 (20W40) or SAE20W40

    Recommended engine oil grade:

       API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA

     

     

    As I understand that engine oil is hotly debated topic, perhaps you could add an  " Engine Oil Article Clicky" as well.

     

    Mine is a GENII  , specifically a 2007 and that information is directly from the 2007 owners manual. Unfortunately, YAMALUBE 4 20W40 is not widely, if at all, available.

    2007 Yamaha FJR1300A

    2001 Suzuki Bandit 600S

    #19 Fred W

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 09:02 AM

    Yes, that was because at the time that manual was written Yamalube was available as 20W40. 

     

    They subsequently dropped that weight and now have either 10W40 or 20W50 only.  Current FJR owners manuals specify those Yamalube oils, even though it is essentially the same identical engine as the one they previously specified 20W40. 

    IOW they specify that oil because that is what they sell, not because the engine particularly needs it.

    To view my "broken" Photobucket images:    Firefox fix  Chrome fix

    #20 richsp51

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 12:27 PM

    Yes, that was because at the time that manual was written Yamalube was available as 20W40. 

     

    They subsequently dropped that weight and now have either 10W40 or 20W50 only.  Current FJR owners manuals specify those Yamalube oils, even though it is essentially the same identical engine as the one they previously specified 20W40. 

    IOW they specify that oil because that is what they sell, not because the engine particularly needs it.

    Fred, are you saying that the current owners manual specify either  either 10W40 or  20W50 is recommended?  I'm almost afraid to ask (I haven't been on the forum very long, but long enough to know where this question can lead to), but is 20W50 generally considered the replacement for the unavailable 20W40? 

    Thanks.

    2007 Yamaha FJR1300A

    2001 Suzuki Bandit 600S

    extrememarine

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 03:14 PM

    From my 2009 manual.  "Recommended engine oil grade: API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA"  It was changed from the 20w40 in '08 or '09.  Please take any further discussion elsewhere so we can keep this as bin'o'facts material only.

     

    IMG_1881_zps8044ac91.jpg

     

     

    Yes, that was because at the time that manual was written Yamalube was available as 20W40. 

     

    They subsequently dropped that weight and now have either 10W40 or 20W50 only.  Current FJR owners manuals specify those Yamalube oils, even though it is essentially the same identical engine as the one they previously specified 20W40. 

    IOW they specify that oil because that is what they sell, not because the engine particularly needs it.

    Fred, are you saying that the current owners manual specify either  either 10W40 or  20W50 is recommended?  I'm almost afraid to ask (I haven't been on the forum very long, but long enough to know where this question can lead to), but is 20W50 generally considered the replacement for the unavailable 20W40? 

    Thanks.

    extrememarine
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    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #22 mcatrophy

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 03:18 PM

    Yes, that was because at the time that manual was written Yamalube was available as 20W40. 

     

    They subsequently dropped that weight and now have either 10W40 or 20W50 only.  Current FJR owners manuals specify those Yamalube oils, even though it is essentially the same identical engine as the one they previously specified 20W40. 

    IOW they specify that oil because that is what they sell, not because the engine particularly needs it.

    Fred, are you saying that the current owners manual specify either  either 10W40 or  20W50 is recommended?  I'm almost afraid to ask (I haven't been on the forum very long, but long enough to know where this question can lead to), but is 20W50 generally considered the replacement for the unavailable 20W40? 

    Thanks.

    Oh, goody, an oil thread.

     

    Quote from my 2010 handbook:

     

    FJRengineOil.jpg

     

    So it all depends on your ambient temperature, and you're not allowed to use your FJR below 10C (50F).rolleyes.gif

    mcatrophy
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    #23 extrememarine

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 03:53 PM

    mcatrophy - could you send me that?  I'll link them in the first post. 

    extrememarine
    IBA#60836

     

    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #24 richsp51

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 03:57 PM

    From my 2009 manual.  "Recommended engine oil grade: API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA"  It was changed from the 20w40 in '08 or '09.  Please take any further discussion elsewhere so we can keep this as bin'o'facts material only.

    .

    OK, understood. But since I was the one who posted about adding an oil section to the bin'o'fact, and given that 20W40 is basically unavailable and that both you and Fred have posted what the later GENII manuals recommend, I'm wondering what you are going to add in the oil section.

    Seems like wording such as: "... earlier GENII's Owners manual state the recommended Type as YAMALUBE 4 20W-40 , or SAE 20W-40 which is now not widely available and that later GENII Owners manual state  the recommend  Type as YAMALUBE 4 20W-50 , or SAE 20W-50"  ...or something to that affect...would be appropriate.

    That way it's clear to the GENII user of the bin'o'facts that the recommended type has changed over time. The earlier GENII user (such as myself) can then draw his own conclusion when he/she is unable to find 20W-40.

    2007 Yamaha FJR1300A

    2001 Suzuki Bandit 600S

    #25 extrememarine

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 05:39 PM

    My intent at this point (regarding Yamaha's recommended oil) is to gather scans or pictures of this section from each year's (Gen 2) owners manual, than add that to the file. We will be able to show, by year, what Yamaha recommends.

    extrememarine
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    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #26 mcatrophy

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 06:06 PM

    mcatrophy - could you send me that?  I'll link them in the first post. 

    email sent.

    mcatrophy
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    #27 Wlfman

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    Posted 01 February 2014 - 06:08 PM

    http://www.yamahamot...or_manuals.aspx

    Dovie'andi se tovya sagain
    "I ride not to add days to my life, but to add LIFE to my days."
    "Those who say it cannot be done should not interrupt the people who are doing it."
    "Now and then it's good to pause in our pursuit of happiness and JUST BE HAPPY."

    #28 Fred W

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    Posted 02 February 2014 - 05:53 AM

    Yup, if you fib a little and tell Mama Yamaha that you own every year of FJR (which we do, collectively) you can then download an owners manual for each. 

    To view my "broken" Photobucket images:    Firefox fix  Chrome fix

    #29 Rickster

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    Posted 02 February 2014 - 05:56 PM

    As a complete document, these are posted here also: Clicky

    although dated, what i've been working from is: 

    https://docs.google....N5farcfmnA/edit

     

    more to follow.

    Regards, Rick
    Seeking new FJR!

    #30 Rickster

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    Posted 02 February 2014 - 06:19 PM

    Windshield Screws:

     

     

     

    Yamaha P/N: 90150-05024-00 Total: 7 Approx price: 120 Yen (1.00 USD) each

    Windshield auto-retract disconnect

    http://www.fjrforum....wtopic=15396

     

    McMaster Carr link lost -- recommend deletion.   :(

     

     

     

    For power consumption, See Iggy's '03-05 Bin-O-Facts for Clothing wattage:

     

    http://www.fjrforum....?showtopic=4295

     

     

    Installing HeatTroller in the Left Handlebar:

     

    http://www.fjr1300.i...switchgear.html

     

     

     

    From SportRider, the complete article and tuning guide 

     

     

     

     

    JA - JeffAshe settings JeffAshe

    http://www.fjrforum....wtopic=14779

     

     

     

     

    Very Dark Red Metallic #2 (VDRM2) Code: 0957, Top Coat: 5200

    ( now just a colorite link:   http://www.colorrite.com/  

     

     

    ColorRite for '06:  -- recommend deletion -- just a colorite link.

     

     

     

     

    Servicing:
    Yamaha OEM Parts online:

    http://www.yamahamot.../starthere.aspx

     

     

    Genuine Yamaha Parts catalog:

    http://www.yamahamot.../starthere.aspx

     

     

     

     

    UMotors policy change affects their pricing. Thread discussion:

    http://www.fjrforum....topic=100644

     

     

    Gary McCoy is no longer at UMotors. Thread discussion:

    http://www.fjrforum....topic=102371

     

     

     

     

    online parts sources: Clicky (thanks madmike2)

    http://www.fjrforum....howtopic=102438

     

     

     

     

    or you can try one of these preferred dealers:

    http://www.fjrforum....?showtopic=7164

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Air Filters:
    K&N air filter # YA-1301 Mfg application Link:

    http://www.knfilters...px?Prod=YA-1301

     

     

     

     

    .... more to follow.... 

    if you have a good lead on a late model FJR -- PM me.

    Regards, Rick
    Seeking new FJR!

    #31 bergmen

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    Posted 03 February 2014 - 06:37 PM

    This is an absolutely excellent thread with great info!

    One minor nit: No shaft drive motorcycles have differentials, they only exist in vehicles with two driven wheels (front or rear). Shaft drive motorcycles have "rear drive housings" or similar descriptions.

    Dan 

    #32 woodcycl

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    Posted 10 May 2014 - 08:07 PM

    Please consider adding a NOTATION to the Torque Specs for the Oil Drain Plug and Oil filter so that folks know that following these torque settings has and will often strip threads.  Many thanks for the consideration.

    --
    Brian

    #33 extrememarine

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    Posted 12 May 2014 - 06:14 AM

    Bryan - there is a note regarding this trend of stripped oil drain plug threads due to torquing to the spec supplied by Yamaha - under "no-hassle FJR1300 Oil Change" 

     

    I'll make a note indicating the reader should read further regarding the oil drain plug issue.

     

    Please consider adding a NOTATION to the Torque Specs for the Oil Drain Plug and Oil filter so that folks know that following these torque settings has and will often strip threads.  Many thanks for the consideration.

    extrememarine
    IBA#60836

     

    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #34 extrememarine

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    Posted 12 May 2014 - 06:23 AM

    Warning note modified to the oil drain bolt torque spec under "No-Hassle FJR1300 Oil Change" section.

     

    Bottom line, 31 ft/lbs is too high of a torque spec for this fastener when it's threaded into the aluminum oil pan.  

    extrememarine
    IBA#60836

     

    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #35 stealth1

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    Posted 15 June 2014 - 11:37 AM

    Concerning Gen II final drive oil, evidently 9079E-SH001-00 is no longer available.

    Suggested replacement is ACC-SHFTD-EX-00.

    Still no idea what the specs are for this oil.

     

    Good news is you get a full quart for about the same price.

    Years beyond my wise

    #36 Harald

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    Posted 16 June 2014 - 02:45 PM

    US Gen 2 will read > 99F -

    DSC02437.JPG

     

    And the US Gen II won't read below 16 degrees F because it was 12 degrees F when I stopped to take this picture:

     

    2013coldride.jpg

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2007 Yamaha FJR1300A - new Aug 2007
    1997 Honda CBR1100XX
    1983 Suzuki GS1100E
    1978 Suzuki GS750E
    IBA # 34894 ---- AMA # 1078040
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    #37 rbentnail

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    Posted 18 December 2014 - 11:15 AM

    An addition for the air filter section:

     

    Emgo # 12-95842.

    I think sometimes folks are just a little too anal about oils & filters & coolant & specs & torque & batteries & spark plugs & reed valves & tires & brakes & shift levers & CCTs & light bulbs & winterizing & cleanliness & splines & trailering & clothing & gas mileage & stuff.

    groundspider.jpg      9TDPSas.jpg

     

    Russ- Darksider #64

    #38 extrememarine

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    Posted 23 December 2014 - 08:37 PM

    An addition for the air filter section:

     

    Emgo # 12-95842.

    Thanks.

    extrememarine
    IBA#60836

     

    My avatar is me.  It is not some picture I copied from the interwebs because it looked cool.  Thanks JWilly for the great camera work...

    #39 jscasteel

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    Posted 30 January 2015 - 09:55 PM

    The FSM says engine oil drain plug  specs for tightening is 31 lb.-ft. That is too tight. There is a good possibility of stripping the threads. Specs for final drive oil drain plug is 17 b.-ft. They are the same size bolts.

     

    If you are going to use a torque wrench, I suggest 17 lb.-ft. for the engine oil plug also.

    #40 rbentnail

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    Posted 31 January 2015 - 11:11 AM

    The FSM says engine oil drain plug  specs for tightening is 31 lb.-ft. That is too tight. There is a good possibility of stripping the threads. Specs for final drive oil drain plug is 17 b.-ft. They are the same size bolts.

     

    If you are going to use a torque wrench, I suggest 17 lb.-ft. for the engine oil plug also.

    This discrepancy is noted in at least 2 places in post #1.  IMHO the easiest way to not strip it out is to not use a torque wrench, just tighten it snug.  Also, just my US$0.02 but torque wrenches are the single most dangerous tool to own and cause more harm than good overall.

    I think sometimes folks are just a little too anal about oils & filters & coolant & specs & torque & batteries & spark plugs & reed valves & tires & brakes & shift levers & CCTs & light bulbs & winterizing & cleanliness & splines & trailering & clothing & gas mileage & stuff.

    groundspider.jpg      9TDPSas.jpg

     

    Russ- Darksider #64

     

    bluesdog

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    Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:48 PM

    I recently used some Dupli-color CBTY1613 (toyota) silver metallic to do some minor touch-ups.  I seems a very close match to the liquid silver on my '11.

    #42 Harald

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    Posted 16 September 2015 - 12:05 PM

    An update is needed on oil filters.  A recent change in manufacturing has rendered some previously acceptable oil filters models as unacceptable.  The threaded portion of the oil filter used to be concave (like an innie belly button), but is now an convex (an outie).  This results in insufficient compression of the gasket (and subsequent leaks) when the threads now bottom out on the union in the FJR engine. 

     

    Affected filters are the Purolator 14610/14612, Bosch 3323 and possibly others.

     

    I'm currently running a Wix 57356 that shows as an acceptable filter for the FJR on rockauto.com and it does not leak.  Cost is $4.55 and it comes in black (not white like shown on the rockauto.com website).

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2007 Yamaha FJR1300A - new Aug 2007
    1997 Honda CBR1100XX
    1983 Suzuki GS1100E
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    IBA # 34894 ---- AMA # 1078040
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    #43 rbentnail

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    Posted 17 September 2015 - 08:05 AM

    But since it's not universal I don't think a change to the section is warranted.  Perhaps add a caution, something like "let the buyer beware.  Open the box and look at it before you buy it."

    Quote

    I think sometimes folks are just a little too anal about oils & filters & coolant & specs & torque & batteries & spark plugs & reed valves & tires & brakes & shift levers & CCTs & light bulbs & winterizing & cleanliness & splines & trailering & clothing & gas mileage & stuff.

    groundspider.jpg      9TDPSas.jpg

     

    Russ- Darksider #64

    #44 Harald

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    Posted 17 September 2015 - 11:44 AM

    But since it's not universal I don't think a change to the section is warranted.  Perhaps add a caution, something like "let the buyer beware.  Open the box and look at it before you buy it."

    That might be okay in the short term, but I'm certain that people are just finding old stock filters that work.  Unless manufacturing changes again down the road, some of our favorite filters will be off limits for FJR use. 

     

    I still have 3 of my favorite old Bosch 3323's in stock, along with a case of new ones.  These fit all 3 motorcycles in my garage and the wife's Acura TL, but I'm reserving this old stock for the FJR only.  I just changed the oil in the kids' Honda Shadow and examination of the filter mount/ threads revealed that the new outie Bosch 3323 filters will work just fine in that application. Test rides have confirmed no leaks. 

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2007 Yamaha FJR1300A - new Aug 2007
    1997 Honda CBR1100XX
    1983 Suzuki GS1100E
    1978 Suzuki GS750E
    IBA # 34894 ---- AMA # 1078040
    crashclub.gifgroundspider.jpg  9TDPSas.jpg

    #45 Ignacio

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    Posted 17 September 2015 - 12:41 PM

    If someone on the forum wants to go through the effot to build a definitive list of all filters that work and don't...they can send me a PM with a proposal on the subject and I bet we can accommodate.  The filter questions I've seen are not generation specific at all and agree these sections are not the place to do this.

    Finished Iron Butt Rally: 2007 (17th), 2009 (13th), 2013 (5th), IBA #332
     
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    #46 TomInPA

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    Posted 18 November 2015 - 05:24 PM

    I think it would be beneficial to note under Suspension that the shock is interchangeable between all generations of FJR, except Gen III ES, in both OEM and aftermarket configurations.  It is common to use the Gen III shock to upgrade Gen I and Gen II suspensions, and it is a less expensive part.  Similarly, an aftermarket Penske, Ohlins and other shocks are able to be transferred between all three generations, preserving that investment.  The Gen III ES cannot be swapped since it requires the logic in the ECM.

    It's a good day to ride...JSNS

    #47 Mossyrocks13k

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    Posted 03 March 2016 - 05:12 PM

    Good Day,

     

     Please remove the link for "Fork Oil"  the page is blank.

     

    Glenn

    You can never appreciate the twisty's without the slab.

     

    #48 extrememarine

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    Posted 03 March 2016 - 07:48 PM

    Updated:

    - Fork Oil link - will research and find new source.

    - Oil filter section - added note regarding filter interchange and crossed off aftermarket filters.

     

    - reviewing rear shock interchangeability

     

    -wr

     

    Good Day,

     

     Please remove the link for "Fork Oil"  the page is blank.

     

    Glenn

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    #49 07FJRSD

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    Posted 13 March 2016 - 01:43 PM

    Just used a John Deere filter on my 2007 TY 26276 seems to work great price is around $4.00. This is the longer filter. I also have used 15/40 plus 50 John Deere diesel oil for all of its 36K miles very good very available. 

    #50 wheatonFJR

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    Posted 13 March 2016 - 02:52 PM

    ^^^^Why did you pick John Deere for your oil and filter needs?
    Was Farmall not good enough for you? Go big red! 
    Iggy's a douchetard.  JSNS
     

    #51 rbentnail

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    Posted 22 March 2016 - 06:56 AM

    That might be okay in the short term, but I'm certain that people are just finding old stock filters that work.  Unless manufacturing changes again down the road, some of our favorite filters will be off limits for FJR use. 

    Purchased an M1-110.  Not old stock, manufactured 12/2015.  Still concave.

    I think sometimes folks are just a little too anal about oils & filters & coolant & specs & torque & batteries & spark plugs & reed valves & tires & brakes & shift levers & CCTs & light bulbs & winterizing & cleanliness & splines & trailering & clothing & gas mileage & stuff.

    groundspider.jpg      9TDPSas.jpg

     

    Russ- Darksider #64

    #52 Madmudder

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    Posted 24 August 2016 - 08:13 AM

    Does anyone know if the front signal bulb is in fact a 7443? for a Gen 2 FJR1300

    I found the following from the first gen bin of facts

     

    Rear Marker/Brake Light - 1157 (8.5/27 watts) or LED replacement here. Other numbers include 2057 (brighter brake light filament), 2357, 7528, & 7225. Consult here for details.

    Rear Turn Signal - 1156 (27 watts) 1156 will not work a 7507, 7505 will the guide tabs are slightly different and line up with a 120 degree pin offset as opposed to a 1156 with a 180 deg offset

    Cowling Marker/Turn Signal - 7443 (5/21 watts) Yamaha part number for gen 1 is 5GJ-83331-00 - 00 & the part number for a gen 2 is 3P6-83331-00- 00

    The part numbers are different so how did the bulb change?

    #53 ionbeam

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    Posted 24 August 2016 - 08:29 AM

    The Gen I and Gen II Cowling Marker/Turn Signal bulbs are the same.

     

    XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX

    The first three digits are the Model Code (every model in the Yamaha Product Line has a unique model number).  The Model Code will be the first model year they were used on, so if the Model doesn't change it will be the same for following years ('01 to '05; '06 to '12; '13 to ......).

    XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
    The middle five digits are the Basic Code number and indicates the actual part, i.e. 11631 = piston; 11311 = cylinder, etc.
    A "W" substituted in the first position of this five-digit group (000-W0000-00-00) indicates a factory assembled kit which differs in content from the original assembly used in production (i.e. 2M0-W0046-00-00 – Rear Break Pad Ass’y).

    XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
    The next two digits are the Design Code and Design Change digits (so 01 means the part has had one design change). This part may or may not appear different, but it will be interchangeable with the original part.

    XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
    The last two digits are the Color or Finish Code.

     

    FWIW, using the first three digits to distinguish models, the '15 and '16 are the same model 1MC and therefore both are Gen III bikes. 
     

    #54 RiderX

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    Posted 24 February 2018 - 04:10 PM

    Can add Fram PH6017A to oil filter, carried by Wally World. 
    IBA# - 462
    CBA#10

    #55 RiderX

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    Posted 10 March 2018 - 02:36 AM

    In the YCCS section, change 

    Note: If the YCC-S indicator comes on (next to the shift) shifting will not be possible

    With shifting may not be possible. 

    I have had many SH codes (including indicator) that allow shifting like today with my SH_47 
    IBA# - 462

     

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