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Lessons Learned on changing the CCT

 

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Lessons Learned on changing the CCT

 

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#1 yamafitter

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 11:50 AM

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This post descibes changing out the CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) using a method we developed during the recent Bustanut Tech Weekend in Owosso. I edited this post to show the CCT with the motor out of the frame...

DON'T PANIC!! We will not be removing the motor for this procedure.

Posted Image

This is a list of the parts for all generations of the FJR:

  • CCT (updated blue dot) - Tension Assembly, CAM - Yamaha Part# 5JW12210-10-00 (item 6)
  • CCT gasket - Gasket, Tensioner CA - 5JW-12213-00-00 (item 7)
  • Cam Chain Cover Gasket - Gasket, Oil Pump Cover - 5JW-15456-11-00 (item 30)

NOTE - The Gen I have the Oil Pump Cover Gasket listed as 5JW-15456-00-00. The Gen II before 2008 list the part as 5JW-15456-10-00 however all three versions of the FJR (Gen I, Gen II prior 2008 and cureent Gen II) share the same Oil Pump Cover (5JW-15416-00-00). Based on this all three gaskets should be interchangable. It appears the gasket was upgraded the same time that the CCT was.

Here are the tools required to change the Cam Chain Tensioner using the Bustanut Owosso method...

Posted Image

From the top right going clockwise

  • 10mm ignition wrench
  • 8 mm ignition wrench
  • 8 mm gear ratchet wrench
  • 8 mm conbination wrench
  • 10mm gear ratchet wrench
  • 1/8" x 6" standard screwdriver
  • Cam Chain Tensioner
  • gasket
  • long tweezers - about 4"
  • some sort of lightsource - I like my Clearwater LED flashlight
Missing from the photo is Bustanut's Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel.
Other tools for pulling the cam chain cover and panels

Posted Image

  • 5mm Allen Key for cam chain cover
  • 4mm Allen Key for plastics - not shown
  • small pick for popping plastic grommet fasteners (beside battery) - not shown
Step 1 -

Remove the seats & gas tank.
For Gen II's remove T-Bar & heat shield. 
Next remove the dash covers on the righthand side and righthand lower cowling. If you have frame sliders the righthand slider will also have to removed.

Step 2 -

Remove the cam chain cover and place a ty-rap around the cam chain guides. Tighten the ty-rap to hold the cam chain in position for the rest of this procedure.

Posted Image

Also remove the bracket holding the idle speed adjustment screw and move the bracket out of the way.

Looking from the top you will be able to see the CCT between the frame and the throttle bodies...

Posted Image

Step 3 -

Remove the access plug in the frame.
Using a 10mm wrench start removing the bolt that covers the access to CCT adjuster. see photo below.
This nut will not the modified yet so either using the 10mm ignition wrench or your fingers remove the screw.

Photo of CCT with screwdriver inserted into access port - CCT is in the 'extended' position

Posted Image

Insert the screwdriver through the access in the frame and into the CCT. Turn the screwdriver clockwise until you can no longer turn the adjuster in the CCT. Note - very little force required.
The CCT is now locked in the 'retracted' position.

Posted Image

Now for the PITA.

Step 4 -

Using the 8mm combination wrench break free the bolt closest the the throttle bodies.
Using either the 8mm combination wrent or the 8mm ignition wrench (whichever works best for you) break free the bolt closest to the frame. 
Using the 8mm ignition wrench and / or fingers work the bolt closest to the frame out of the motor. Once loose use the tweezers to remove.
Using the 8mm gear ratchet wrench remove the bolt closest to the throttle body. I used a screwdriver pressed up against the ratcheting section to stop the wrench from spinning back. Again use the tweezers to remove once the bolt is loose.
Remove the CCT from the motor. There is only enough room to remove the CCT from below the frame.

Take a deep breath and a refreshment break - the hard part is done.

Step 5 - The Genius of the Owosso Way

Posted Image

Using a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel cut a slot in all three bolts so that the resulting slot will accept the screwdriver.

Step 6 -

The new CCT should have a blue dot. This dot goes to the top also the tab on the gasket goes to the top.
The new CCT has a retainer installed that is holding the CCT in the retracted position. I would suggest that you remove the retainer and using a screwdriver turn the adjuster a few turns counterclockwise until the CCT releases the spring and moves to the extended position. Turn the screwdriver clockwise the retract the CCT to the locked retracted position. 
You should note that there is significantly more resistance offered by the new spring in the redesigned CCT. 
Some folks now replace the retainer but I find it easier to leave it out. If your new CCT does not lock you will have to reinstall the retainer and then remove the retainer with needle nose pliers after installing the CCT.
Insert the new CCT & gasket from the bottom and place it into the motor opening. 
Ensure that the blue dot on the CCT is facing up and the gasket tab is also up.

Step 7 -

Using tweezers to position the bolt start with the bolt closest to the throttle bodies. Using the screwdriver it is possible to angle the screwdriver into the modified bolt and use the screwdriver to spin the bolt in. Leave slightly loose for now.
Repeat the above process for the bolt closest to the frame turning it in as far as possible. 
Using the 8mm ignition wrench tighten the bolt closest to the frame. You may need to use the 8mm combination to bring to final torque but these bolts are small so be careful. Breaking a bolt at this point means removing the motor.
Using the 8mm ratchet wrench tighten the bolt closest to the throttle bodies.

See how time saving that all was!!! :yahoo: 

Step 8 -

Insert the screwdriver through the frame access and turn the CCT adjuster counterclockwise until the adjuster releases. You will feel the screwdriver spin when this occurs.
Using the screwdriver in the adjuster, exercise the tensioner a few times to confirm that the plunger is in fact hitting the chain guide. Now you can feel more comfortable releasing that ty-wrap (to be done a little later).

Posted Image

Using tweezers to position the screw use the screwdriver to install the CCT access screw cover.
Replace the frame access plug.

Step 9 - almost done!!

Remove the ty-rap from around the cam chain.
After cutting the ty-wrap and before buttoning things up, manually turn the engine through at least two complete crankshaft revolutions (crank turns CW from the right side) while observing the timing chain . If you are going to skip (or have already skipped) a tooth on a sprocket you want to discover that before thumbing the starter button. Obviously do not force it if you feel any obstruction.
Replace cam chain cover.
Replace Idle Speed Adjuster Bracket.
Replace all the tupperware.

You're DONE!!! 

You must be hungry by now.
I rewarded myself with a pita from the Pita Deli in Whitby...

Posted Image

Thanks to Fred W & others for a few suggestions on improvements. I have made the upgrades. 

Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"

#2 El Toro Joe

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 12:49 PM

Nice write-up Bill...now get yerself a beer to wash down that Pita 

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#3 fjrrider

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 01:13 PM

Good post Bill, you techno freak!

Thats not a pita thats a burrito! 
Sometimes you guys just ride too fast!!!!


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#4 Greb

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 01:32 PM

Good write up and pics. I tried using the old cam chain cover gasket and it leaked. Had to open it up again and replace gasket. YMMV 
Posted Image Posted Image

#5 beemerdons

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 01:41 PM

Nice write-up Bill...now get yerself a beer to wash down that Pita


+1, Gunny! Very nice work Bill, have yourself at least two beers! 

#6 Bugnatr

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 02:07 PM

Wow, now I know how the shop did my cct. Very nice write up! 

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#7 wheatonFJR

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 02:39 PM

Great post and procedural with photos.

Is that REALLY the Owosso Way though? 
Iggy's a douchetard.  JSNS
 

#8 RaYzerman19

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 06:05 PM

Excellent write-up, Bill. Perhaps we should mention that if you can't find the appropriate ignition wrenches, a decent alternative is a sawed off 8 mm box end for the frame side bolt, from underneath. A short wrench (mine was 2 3/4") will allow a bigger turn swing. A smooth wrench is slippery, so texture it up a bit with a dremel or file so you can hang onto it. 

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#9 mattster31

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 06:18 PM

Awesome write up Bill. Had I seen that last fall it might have prevented me from doing this.............. <_< 

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#10 SacramentoMike

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 06:34 PM

Good post. Can we call it a Doohicky, though?

Thats not a pita thats a burrito!


He's right. THIS is a pita.

Posted Image

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#11 escapefjrtist

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 07:18 PM

Perfect timing Bill. I'll be changing mine in the next couple weeks with the new and improved *blue dot* version! :clapping: 

For us novices on this project though...Couldn't you use a 1/4" drive 8mm socket / swivel and nut driver through the frame access hole, or not enough room? I have used the slotting method before and it does work well. Great idea!

Thanks for the post.

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#12 yamafitter

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 08:53 PM

Perfect timing Bill. I'll be changing mine in the next couple weeks with the new and improved *blue dot* version! :clapping: 

For us novices on this project though...Couldn't you use a 1/4" drive 8mm socket / swivel and nut driver through the frame access hole, or not enough room? I have used the slotting method before and it does work well. Great idea!

Thanks for the post.

--G


Unfortunately the 8mm bolts are very long and there is not enough room between the frame and the CCT to allow the use of a socket. I wish there was so we wouldn't have to mess around so much getting the original bolts out :angry:

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#13 yamafitter

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 08:59 PM

Great post and procedural with photos.

Is that REALLY the Owosso Way though?


I was in Owosso having nightmares about sheep and manatees being abused when I dreamt up this idea. Therefore Owosso does get some credit for this. 
Giving any credit to the designated doofus..... not so much. :P 

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#14 yamafitter

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 09:02 PM

Awesome write up Bill. Had I seen that last fall it might have prevented me from doing this.............. <_< 

Posted Image


Can I have your coolant pipe? OOPS!! Never mind, it's one of those inferior Gen I's. 

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#15 yamafitter

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 09:21 PM

Good post Bill, you techno freak!

Thats not a pita thats a burrito!


I doubt Jimmy the Greek who owns the Pita Deli even knows what a burrito is. 

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 03:24 AM

Nice write-up and pics! Heavily reduces the intimidation factor for the CCT change. Time to find some 8 mm wrenches. 

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#17 yamafitter

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 03:43 AM

Nice write-up and pics! Heavily reduces the intimidation factor for the CCT change. Time to find some 8 mm wrenches.


My ignition wrenches are Craftsman from Sears and they also have the 8mm & 10mm gear ratchet wrenches. Make sure your screwdriver is no wider than 1/8" or it will not fit inside the CCT. 

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#18 beemerdons

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 04:52 AM

Good post. Can we call it a Doohicky, though?
 


Thats not a pita thats a burrito!


He's right. THIS is a pita.

Posted Image

 


Well, SacramentoMike may indeed be a senile old fogey, but Miguel definitely does know the difference between a pita, a PITA and a burrito. +1, Gunny! nuff' said'

 


Great post and procedural with photos.

Is that REALLY the Owosso Way though?


I was in Owosso having nightmares about sheep and manatees being abused when I dreamt up this idea. Therefore Owosso does get some credit for this. 
Giving any credit to the designated doofus..... not so much. :P 

Posted Image

 



SO WRONG! So wrong in so many ways! 

#19 Fred W

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 05:23 AM

Nice job, Bill. 

A couple of notes to possibly include in your procedure:

On my new CCT, after I played with it on the workbench to confirm the tension would be increased as compared to the old one, it would not stay latched in the extracted position like the old one would, without re-installing the keeper. I assumed that all the new ones were that way, but it seems yours would. Not a big deal as it was easy to pull out the keeper with some needle-nose pliers after installing the new CCT.

After installing the new CCT, and before cutting the ty-wrap, after releasing the new CCT, put the screwdriver in the adjuster and exercise the tensioner a few times to confirm that the plunger is in fact hitting the chain guide. Now you can feel more comfortable releasing that ty-wrap.

After cutting the ty-wrap and before buttoning things up, manually turn the engine through at least two complete crankshaft revolutions (crank turns CW from the right side) while observing the timing chain . If you are going to skip (or have already skipped) a tooth on a sprocket you want to discover that before thumbing the starter button. Obviously do not force it if you feel any obstruction.

Your post will be a good resource for folks needing to do this. And I would say that anyone that has >30k miles and/or is out of warranty on their FJR that hasn't already done so, needs to do this. ;)

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#20 wheatonFJR

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 05:55 AM

Posted Image


Wow...when they say you need to move the engine to get to the middle gear seals, they weren't kidding! :dribble: 

;)
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Posted 14 April 2011 - 06:16 AM

Nice job, Bill. 

A couple of notes to possibly include in your procedure:...


Thanks for the suggestions Fred. All good points that will help.
I have gone back into the original post and added your suggestions. 

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#22 wheatonFJR

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 07:23 AM

This is a great write-up!!!

EDIT: How much time should normally be allowed for an average or below average garage mechanic to perform the CCT swap?? 
Iggy's a douchetard.  JSNS
 

#23 yamafitter

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 07:47 AM

This is a great write-up!!!

EDIT: How much time should normally be allowed for an average or below average garage mechanic to perform the CCT swap??


I have 34 years of tinkering around stuff like instrumentation for nuclear reactors and it took me maybe two hours from rolling the bike into the garage to restarting the bike. Depending on how many beers are consumed, your time may vary. I would say if all the tools are handy it can easily be done in less than 3 hours by the average shady tree mechanic. 

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#24 wheatonFJR

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 07:50 AM

 


This is a great write-up!!!

EDIT: How much time should normally be allowed for an average or below average garage mechanic to perform the CCT swap??


I have 34 years of tinkering around stuff like instrumentation for nuclear reactors and it took me maybe two hours from rolling the bike into the garage to restarting the bike. Depending on how many beers are consumed, your time may vary. I would say if all the tools are handy it can easily be done in less than 3 hours by the average shady tree mechanic.

 


Thanks. :clapping: 

(Marking down a full 8 hours for me)
Iggy's a douchetard.  JSNS
 

#25 RaYzerman19

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 05:30 PM

Nice job, Bill. 

A couple of notes to possibly include in your procedure:

On my new CCT, after I played with it on the workbench to confirm the tension would be increased as compared to the old one, it would not stay latched in the extracted position like the old one would, without re-installing the keeper. I assumed that all the new ones were that way, but it seems yours would. Not a big deal as it was easy to pull out the keeper with some needle-nose pliers after installing the new CCT.

After installing the new CCT, and before cutting the ty-wrap, after releasing the new CCT, put the screwdriver in the adjuster and exercise the tensioner a few times to confirm that the plunger is in fact hitting the chain guide. Now you can feel more comfortable releasing that ty-wrap.

After cutting the ty-wrap and before buttoning things up, manually turn the engine through at least two complete crankshaft revolutions (crank turns CW from the right side) while observing the timing chain . If you are going to skip (or have already skipped) a tooth on a sprocket you want to discover that before thumbing the starter button. Obviously do not force it if you feel any obstruction.

Your post will be a good resource for folks needing to do this. And I would say that anyone that has >30k miles and/or is out of warranty on their FJR that hasn't already done so, needs to do this. ;)

All good points, Fred. Interestingly, when we changed BikerGeek's CCT last fall, we found the same as you, it would not stay retracted without the keeper. I think Bill's new one did (surprise), and when we did the Geek's valve clearances this time, it stayed retracted as well. It's a little tricky as there is a "trigger point" or click that is a bit hit or miss, so you might have to do it a couple of times.

If you are just replacing the CCT, as we did last fall, we did not have the valve cover off, and we were very careful to tie wrap the cam chain down by the crank sprocket and even more careful to verify the CCT had fully extended (triple checked) as it can partially hang up. 

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#26 zed88

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 07:43 PM

Dumb question but what indicates a need to change the cct? Is this just a gen 1 item at low mileage or is this nessassary on all model years? Is there an upgraded model that lasts longer? 

#27 FJRBluesman

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 09:09 PM

Great job! I like that mod to the bolt. ;)
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#28 yamafitter

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 02:03 AM

Dumb question but what indicates a need to change the cct? Is this just a gen 1 item at low mileage or is this nessassary on all model years? Is there an upgraded model that lasts longer?


For the '08 model year Yamaha redesigned the CCT with a stronger spring and a few other changes. It is referred by many as the 'blue dot' CCT. The older design allowed for some chain slap over time and very few have experienced a CCT failure leading to very expensive valve damage. While I was not experiencing any cam chain noise on my '06 AE I changed mine out to the redesigned model as a preventative measure.
I see from your profile that you ride a '06 Gen II. I'm assuming you bought it used so the next time you have the tank off take a flashlight and check the top of the CCT for a blue dot. If you can't find the dot then you should consider changing it IMHO.
To have a shop do this is expensive mostly due to the time it takes dealing with the original bolts. The parts are worth roughly $100. 

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#29 charismaticmegafauna

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 08:06 AM

Why doesn't MamaYama recall all FJRs and retrofit the 'blue dot' tensioner?

FYI, Kawasaki sent recall letters to C-10 owners for free, dealer, installation of new-style cam-chain tensioners.
(certainly not an isolated case of a manufacturer initiated preventative measure...) 
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#30 FJRMGM

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 10:10 AM

man, glad I didn't see this write-up before I changed my CCT last fall. 

All I did was remove the three bolts holding the old one in place and remove it and plug in the new one and bolt it up!!

I think it took me 35 minutes from start to finish and because I'm older that included having to stop to take a leak.. 

I now live in motorcycling paradise - NW Arkansas!!

#31 yamafitter

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 11:12 AM

man, glad I didn't see this write-up before I changed my CCT last fall. 

All I did was remove the three bolts holding the old one in place and remove it and plug in the new one and bolt it up!!

I think it took me 35 minutes from start to finish and because I'm older that included having to stop to take a leak..


You probably have girly man hands with tiny fingers. 
I think your start and stop place in the procedure is a little different also. If you can remove the tank and all the plastic, perform the CCT change and then put the all the plastic back on in 35 minutes you should be working for one of the pit crews in NASCAR.

Also if you did nothing about ensuring that the cam chain stayed tight you are lucky that the chain did not slip and you didn't blow the bike up. 

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#32 FJRMGM

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 11:44 AM

 


man, glad I didn't see this write-up before I changed my CCT last fall. 

All I did was remove the three bolts holding the old one in place and remove it and plug in the new one and bolt it up!!

I think it took me 35 minutes from start to finish and because I'm older that included having to stop to take a leak..


You probably have girly man hands with tiny fingers. 
I think your start and stop place in the procedure is a little different also. If you can remove the tank and all the plastic, perform the CCT change and then put the all the plastic back on in 35 minutes you should be working for one of the pit crews in NASCAR.

Also if you did nothing about ensuring that the cam chain stayed tight you are lucky that the chain did not slip and you didn't blow the bike up.

 


you are right about the small hands - I have them and sometimes they are useful. Like his job and replacing headlight bulbs. :P 

As for "remove all the plastic" - all that has to be removed is the two small side panels on the right side of the tank and one panel on the left. Crap if one is really slow that takes five minutes. Remove the seat and the two bolts on the front of the tank and loosen the back bolt on it and up it comes.

I followed the instructions someone else posted on this forum on how to make this repair and all worked fine. I guess The Force was with me on this one.

As for being on a NASCAR team - no, I am not but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
YMMV. 

I now live in motorcycling paradise - NW Arkansas!!

#33 Bustanut joker

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:06 PM

35 minutes? :huh: 

Being it's Friday,this could get good ;)
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#34 beemerdons

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:11 PM

35 minutes? :huh: 

Being it's Friday,this could get good ;)


Hey Bust, it sounds like a "sword fight" is brewing! Right up dj bill's alley! 

#35 RaYzerman19

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:20 PM

 


man, glad I didn't see this write-up before I changed my CCT last fall. 

All I did was remove the three bolts holding the old one in place and remove it and plug in the new one and bolt it up!!

I think it took me 35 minutes from start to finish and because I'm older that included having to stop to take a leak..


You probably have girly man hands with tiny fingers. 
I think your start and stop place in the procedure is a little different also. If you can remove the tank and all the plastic, perform the CCT change and then put the all the plastic back on in 35 minutes you should be working for one of the pit crews in NASCAR.

Also if you did nothing about ensuring that the cam chain stayed tight you are lucky that the chain did not slip and you didn't blow the bike up.

 

It's OK, Bill, he's got one of those inferior Gen 1's that doesn't need the T-bar taken out, insulation pad removed, and probably has no frame sliders preventing his right fairing from coming off..... not to mention, we have arthritic knees and when we get down to undo those screws, we need a beer to lubricate the knees when we get back up. Even so, no way in 35 minutes.... unless he switched his watch to Daylight Savings time afterwards. 

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#36 yamafitter

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:21 PM

Small hands are a definite plus for this job. I'm still not buying into the 35 minutes though. This sounds too much like the 10 minutes jobs my supervisor used to hand me at the nuke plant. 
Three days later we would finally get the authorization to look at it to see if the job was even possible, seven days to get stores to release the parts from the warehouse, an hour getting suited up, checking in at the access desk and going through the air lock. 10 minutes to install the part, two hours to decontaminate the old parts & tools and then wait ten days for the operators to get around to perform the final testing before returning the system to service.

At 35 minutes to do a CCT I'm thinking your using one of those new fangled metric clocks...

Posted Image

Now that I've done a couple of CCT's, with all the plastic out of the way, the cam chain secured and Bustanut hasn't 'borrowed' my tools, we can change one out in 10 minutes, 5 minutes if we use your watch. :P

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#37 Blind Squirrel

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 04:39 AM

I've located the part numbers for the CCT and the CCT gasket, but don't know what the part number for the gasket on the cover is.

CCT - TENSIONER ASSY, CAM (5JW-12210-10-00)
CCT GASKET - GASKET, TENSIONER CA (5JW-12213-00-00)

Anyone got a part number for the cover gasket?

Thanks. 

- Scott (Chesapeake Va.)

 

#38 Fred W

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 04:51 AM

Should be item #29 on the parts fische under "crankcase cover 1"


GASKET, OIL PUMP COV 
5JW-15456-00-00

I bought one, but did not need to use it. YMMV 

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#39 Blind Squirrel

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 05:28 AM

Should be item #29 on the parts fische under "crankcase cover 1"


GASKET, OIL PUMP COV 
5JW-15456-00-00

I bought one, but did not need to use it. YMMV


Thanks Fred. For $3.78 from Ron Ayers, i'm throwing one in the cart. Better to be safe than sorry!

A suggestion for Bill: Add the part #'s to the origional post to make it easier for anyone that is looking for them. 

- Scott (Chesapeake Va.)

 

#40 RaYzerman19

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 07:21 AM

I remembered paying more than that, so had to look it up again. Looks like different part number for Gen 1. For Gen2 it's 5JW-15456-11-00 for $6.75. One would think they'd be the same. 

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 07:34 AM

Zanottis has your 2nd gen gasket for $3.19 - clicky

I'm guess that shipping will be more than the cost of the part. ;)

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#42 yamafitter

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 08:01 AM

I remembered paying more than that, so had to look it up again. Looks like different part number for Gen 1. For Gen2 it's 5JW-15456-11-00 for $6.75. One would think they'd be the same.


I did some research and it appears that in 2008 when the CCT was updated they also did an update on the cam chain cover gasket or what Yamaha calls the Oil Pump Cover Gasket (item #30). My '06 AE lists the cover gasket number as 5JW-15456-10-00.
There is no change in the actual cover since the part number for the cover is identical over all model years (Part # 5JW-15416-00-00)
Based on this the three gaskets appear to be interchangable and I would probably order the newer gasket regardless of what generation of FJR you have.
I will go into the original post and update with part numbers. 

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#43 BikerGeek99

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 09:23 AM

Dumb question but what indicates a need to change the cct? Is this just a gen 1 item at low mileage or is this nessassary on all model years? Is there an upgraded model that lasts longer?


Not a dumb question at all.

Besides what Ray said, I'll add this: before the CCT swap on my bike last fall, upon startup (mainly with a cold engine, but sometimes when it was warm, as well), on the right side of the engine, I could hear a slight "click-clack-click-clack." Think of an old-style mechanical typewriter typing very rhythmically, heard through a door, and that's about what it sounded like.

After the swap - nothing. Quiet as can be. 
Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#44 ZOOOMM

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:05 PM

Has anyone considered using allen socket head bolts in lieu of the stock hex head bolts with the ground-in slot? I have to tackle this project later this week and I thought I would pick up the socket head bolts to try. 
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#45 Fred W

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:26 PM

I'm not sure that allen head screws would be any better than the stock hex heads. The main problem is not having enough room to swing the wrench from the side, so I think you'd run into that same problem with the allens.

That said, it wasn't really that much of a PITA on my '05. Make sure to pick up one of the (more expensive) 8mm ratcheting box end, combination wrenches from Sears. The cheap one has too course ratchet teeth. You'll see what I mean when you look at them. 

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#46 yamafitter

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:36 PM

Has anyone considered using allen socket head bolts in lieu of the stock hex head bolts with the ground-in slot? I have to tackle this project later this week and I thought I would pick up the socket head bolts to try.


Please try and let us know but I think you'll find that there will not be enough room between the frame to get an Allen socket onto the bolt closest to the frame. A long T-handle 'ball end' Allen wrench just might give you the proper alignment for the bolts holding the CCT. Unfortunately I think you'll find that there will not be enough room to then turn the T-handle though.

I'm thinking a ball-ended Allen bit using a 1/4" socket with a 'wobble' extension might be your best bet.

Posted Image

I found these bits on the web that have 'magic ring' for holding the screw. Here is the link:

Metric 'Magic Ring' Ball end Power Bits

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#47 ionbeam

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:38 PM

Hi Jim!

To remove the OEM bolts one tool that works is a wobble extension, different from a 'universal joint' type swivel. A wobble extension looks like this:

Posted Image

The taper at the transition between the socket attachment area and the shaft of the extension lets the socket wobble a bit and this is just enough to get the socket square on the bolt and let the extension be just a bit off center. Since I have a set of 'gear ratchet' box end wrenchs I would use one of those. The only caution is that the gear ratchets aren't strong enough for high torque use.

One type of gear wrench:
Posted Image
There is no reason you can't replace the standard bolts with Allen head screws :wub: I would suggest that you use washers because the shoulder of the Allen head is smaller than the shoulder of a bolt affecting clamping area. Since you will only be doing this job once (hopefully), consider using blue locktite if you go the Allen screw way. Any ball end hex wrench will allow offset access to the bolt head.

Posted ImagePosted Image

Has Iris painted her FJR white yet? Or replaced her FJR with a white bike?

Edit: Dang, ol' Fred is quick on the answers! And -- we pretty much agree! :blink:

Of course the job is much easier to do when the engine is in the RadioHowie position, like mine was too.

Posted Image

 

#48 escapefjrtist

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 11:17 PM

Based on my CCT change this week, using an allen head on the upper bolt will work, lower bolt next to the frame...not so much. I don't think you can get the angle necessary even with a wobble extension and ball end allen. The only other way is with a very short allen wrench on both sides, and even then you're not going to get the necessary swing. 

Cutting a slot in the standard hex worked really slick!

--G 

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#49 yamafitter

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Posted 24 April 2011 - 04:21 AM

Based on my CCT change this week, using an allen head on the upper bolt will work, lower bolt next to the frame...not so much. I don't think you can get the angle necessary even with a wobble extension and ball end allen. The only other way is with a very short allen wrench on both sides, and even then you're not going to get the necessary swing. 

Cutting a slot in the standard hex worked really slick!

--G


Another happy customer!! :)

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#50 Blind Squirrel

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 05:07 AM

Does anyone have the torque value for the bolts on the cam chain cover? 

- Scott (Chesapeake Va.)

 

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 05:21 AM

Does anyone have the torque value for the bolts on the cam chain cover?


12Nm or 8.7 ft-lbs as per my manual. 

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#52 Blind Squirrel

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 05:29 AM

Thanks! A couple of more suggestions to add/mod the origional post:

- Add the torque value for the cam chain cover
- Emphasize the value of having good tools vs crappy tools. See the comment about the pickle I got into over the weekend in this thread

- Scott (Chesapeake Va.)

 

#53 Fred W

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 05:51 AM

Unless you have a really good inch-pounds torque wrench, I would be hesitant to torque those cover bolts. 

More threads get pulled out (stripped) due to the use of torque wrenches than come loose due to not using them. ;)

Just tighten them to good n' tite and call it a day. They just have to make an oil seal, no mechanical support. 

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#54 yamafitter

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 06:07 AM

Unless you have a really good inch-pounds torque wrench, I would be hesitant to torque those cover bolts. 

More threads get pulled out (stripped) due to the use of torque wrenches than come loose due to not using them. ;)

Just tighten them to good n' tite and call it a day. They just have to make an oil seal, no mechanical support.


I'm a 'righty tighty' with my Allen key T-Handle kind of guy myself. 
A good friend of mine (even though he rides KTM's) works over at the nuke plant calibrating torque wrenches. He tells me that the best you can hope for is about plus or minus 20% of the reading. For small fasteners if you are not willing to put out some fair dollars for a high quality inch-pound torque wrench and have the ability to keep it calibrated, you're wasting your time.
Having said that and having worked with wrenches all my adult life I have developed a calibrated wrist that 'clicks' and lets me know when things are 'tight enough'. If you're a newbie to all this and want to learn get an in-lb torque wrench. 
But PLEASE if you buy a clicker type, back off the setting to zero before storing. My friend who calibrates these things for a living will thank you and so will the bolts on your bike. 

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#55 Blind Squirrel

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 06:28 AM

Unless you have a really good inch-pounds torque wrench, I would be hesitant to torque those cover bolts. 

More threads get pulled out (stripped) due to the use of torque wrenches than come loose due to not using them. ;)

Just tighten them to good n' tite and call it a day. They just have to make an oil seal, no mechanical support.


Sound advice. 

- Scott (Chesapeake Va.)

 

#56 ZOOOMM

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 04:17 PM

Hi Jim!

Has Iris painted her FJR white yet? [color="#c0c0c0"]Or replaced her FJR with a white bike?


Hey Alan, no white bikes in the stable yet. We did do a fair amount of maintenance this winter though. New tapered bearings in the steering stems, replaced all of the stock bearings in the relay arms and swing arms, replaced the thermostats, new coolant, greased the drive shaft splines, greased the side stands and center stands. Then when we almost had them all back together, we started them up to let the new coolant flush thru and settle out when Iris heard that "noise". Iris indicated that's your tensioner. She remembers when hers was replaced at Herba's (and it made the same noise). I'm hoping that by this weekend we should be in good shape (if the parts come in). :D Say hi to Helen. 
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#57 escapefjrtist

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 07:32 PM

Unless you have a really good inch-pounds torque wrench, I would be hesitant to torque those cover bolts. 

More threads get pulled out (stripped) due to the use of torque wrenches than come loose due to not using them. ;)

Just tighten them to good n' tite and call it a day. They just have to make an oil seal, no mechanical support.


IIRC, the bolts on the cam cover are a shoulder bolt. Adding to Fred's thoughts, once these bottom there's nothing left to torque. Snugged up is all that's necessary. Same goes for several (at least on GENII's) on the fairings. 

--G 

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#58 FJR Flyer

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 01:24 PM

I finally got a garage pass and had free time today to change out the CCT. I've had the new blue dot unit and these instructions printed out and sitting on the workbench for months. This post was invaluable. I did a couple things different and found a few work arounds.

I had four different 8 mm wrenches, including a box ratchet, but still had trouble with the bolt next to the frame. As I have a bunch of old SAE tools that were my uncles, I found that 5/16" ignition wrenches also fit the 8 mm bolt. Used at least four of those, too. Saved my butt and allowed me to remove that bolt. 

Got the new CCT installed and was installing the adjustment access bolt, thinking i was home free. Didn't think it would be a problem until it rolled off my fingers and went into the frame recess. Of course I couldn't find my magnet on a stick. Ran down to the hardware store and got a new magnet on a stick. This one is a small diameter magnet on a telescoping rod. Retrieved the bolt, then realized I could hold the bolt with the magnet, insert it through the frame access hole and easily thread the bolt into the CCT. No slot cutting of the bolt required!

The biggest pain was cleaning the old gasket off the cam chain cover and the engine. Also, it was a bit tricky reinstalling the long pin that came off with the cover. Had to maneuver the plastic chain guide around until I could get the pin inserted.

Got it all back together and running and had enough time to change the oil and filter and clean up the bike a bit. 

Chris P. IBA#37903
'06 FJR1300, '87 FJ1200, '76 DT250 
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#59 yamafitter

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 04:53 PM

I finally got a garage pass and had free time today to change out the CCT...

I read in a different thread that someone took off the clutch cover and had more room to swing the 8mm wrench when attempting to remove the bolt closest to the frame. If someone shows up in the Spring for Tech Day IV looking for a CCT change we will find out if this is true.

I used tweezers to position the bolts so there was less chance of losing a bolt down into the access hole in the frame. That being said, the magnet will work just as well for the one bolt in question saving having to cut the slot in that bolt. I do not believe however that using a magnet to start the two CCT mounting bolts would work as well. 

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#60 yamafitter

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 04:56 PM

oops, wrong button. 

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 07:34 PM

If you use a short, (meaning cut off) 8 mm wrench, or short ignition wrench, you can swing it a whole lot more from below and you'll be much happier and faster. The idea of cutting slots in the bolts is so you can spin them in without using a wrench, then the last little bit is simply tightening them up with the wrench. There shouldn't be a next time, but if there is, you'll thank yourself immensely and have time for an extra beer. 

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#62 FJR Flyer

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 04:30 AM

I read in a different thread that someone took off the clutch cover and had more room to swing the 8mm wrench when attempting to remove the bolt closest to the frame. If someone shows up in the Spring for Tech Day IV looking for a CCT change we will find out if this is true.

I used tweezers to position the bolts so there was less chance of losing a bolt down into the access hole in the frame. That being said, the magnet will work just as well for the one bolt in question saving having to cut the slot in that bolt. I do not believe however that using a magnet to start the two CCT mounting bolts would work as well.


I read about the clutch cover after the fact, while looking for this thread.

I agree, the magnet will only work for the one bolt. I could get my fingers down the to start the mounting bolts. The mounting bolt threads are a little recessed, so you can at least get the bolt in the hole, while the adjustment hole bolts has the threads all the way to the end, so it was hard to get the bolt lined up and started. The magnet solved that problem.

I also put masking tape over the frame recess (another lesson learned the hard way) and poked the magnet thru it before positioning the bolt.

Thanks again. As usual, this forum provides all the info needed. 

Chris P. IBA#37903
'06 FJR1300, '87 FJ1200, '76 DT250 
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#63 TomInPA

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 11:55 AM

I finally got a garage pass and had free time today to change out the CCT. I've had the new blue dot unit and these instructions printed out and sitting on the workbench for months. This post was invaluable. I did a couple things different and found a few work arounds.

I had four different 8 mm wrenches, including a box ratchet, but still had trouble with the bolt next to the frame. As I have a bunch of old SAE tools that were my uncles, I found that 5/16" ignition wrenches also fit the 8 mm bolt. Used at least four of those, too. Saved my butt and allowed me to remove that bolt. 

Got the new CCT installed and was installing the adjustment access bolt, thinking i was home free. Didn't think it would be a problem until it rolled off my fingers and went into the frame recess. Of course I couldn't find my magnet on a stick. Ran down to the hardware store and got a new magnet on a stick. This one is a small diameter magnet on a telescoping rod. Retrieved the bolt, then realized I could hold the bolt with the magnet, insert it through the frame access hole and easily thread the bolt into the CCT. No slot cutting of the bolt required!

The biggest pain was cleaning the old gasket off the cam chain cover and the engine. Also, it was a bit tricky reinstalling the long pin that came off with the cover. Had to maneuver the plastic chain guide around until I could get the pin inserted.

Got it all back together and running and had enough time to change the oil and filter and clean up the bike a bit.


With the clutch cover off, the lower bolt was not an issue, and it made removing the old CCT and installing the new one a breeze for my fat fingers. I used the Bluesman 8mm ratchet wrench with no problem or modifications. To install the access bolt on the end of the CCT I used some mother's clay compound in a 12mm shallow socket and stuck the bolt into that, then attached the socket to the end of a flexible shaft driver. It threadded right in. Overall the CCT is a breeze as long as the chain is secured with a couple sockets to keep out the slack. You're going to love the difference in the sound of the motor without the chain slap. 
It's a good day to ride...JSNS

#64 Fred W

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 02:50 PM

I do not remember it being all that much of a problem to get those bolts back in. Either I was really lucky or else I am a superior mechanic, so it was probably the former. ;)

What I generally use in these kinds of circumstances, and did in this case too, is a long nosed, curved jaw roach clip pair of hemostats. 

Posted Image

Clip the "jaws" (lightly) up under the head of the bolt, so any thread buggery is in a non important area. Hold in place and "drive her home" (that's what she said). 

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#65 Bustanut joker

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 05:37 PM

The Owosso way!!! I feel pretty proud right now!! A warm kinda damp feeling in me loins..



Oh wait I pissed meself.:(
Nevermind

*slinks out* 
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#66 Ratman

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 06:10 PM

Monday: decided I needed to put my asked at CCT in, looked at all the pages. Asked my dealer what his cost would be, 4.5 hours at $110.00 / hr.
Yep, I’m doing it myself. There was some thought of what if a butcher this job? But I went full steam ahead.

Started by removing the cowling? No problem came right off, still didn’t see the part I was looking for though, lifted the fuel tank, removed some rubber air dams and there it was? Next went to the chain cover where I seen the cable tie cinched up around the cam chain, with that done on the CCT.
It looks quite tight in there for my fat finger? Top bolt is right there, the bottom bolt wow! With the tools I had I gave it a try, wasn’t going to happen. Looks like a run to Sears. Having found the 8mm swivel that the other more accomplish folks already had. Boy now that I have this little guy I can knock this out in no time.Home with new swivel in hand, back to my job at hand.

The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?

Off back to the store and picked up a long magnet and one of those three finger grabbers. Back home I go. Worked on getting the socket out from inside the frame for another half hour, but out it come.
Now I have a long extension with my swivel stuck right on the end, I move it with all the dexterity of a surgeon. I got it! I got it! Pop off it comes. Feeling quite amazed that things were going so well.

Started at 9:00 and it’s only 11:30 and I have the thing out. Shoved the new one in from the bottom as instructed, gasket on, top bolt started with some lock tight on. Bottom bolt started with the new hack saw cut right down the middle and away we go!

All in all it was quite an easy job, even for a fat finger old guy setting at home recuperating from surgery. 
It was made easy by the guys that posted here earlier, thanks. The pic where great and the cutting of the bolt head superb..

I feel much more relaxed riding with a new CCT installed by me.
GC 
Purveyor of correct opinions and advice since 1954

#67 Bugnatr

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 10:03 PM

Monday: decided I needed to put my asked at CCT in, looked at all the pages. Asked my dealer what his cost would be, 4.5 hours at $110.00 / hr.
Yep, I’m doing it myself. There was some thought of what if a butcher this job? But I went full steam ahead.

Started by removing the cowling? No problem came right off, still didn’t see the part I was looking for though, lifted the fuel tank, removed some rubber air dams and there it was? Next went to the chain cover where I seen the cable tie cinched up around the cam chain, with that done on the CCT.
It looks quite tight in there for my fat finger? Top bolt is right there, the bottom bolt wow! With the tools I had I gave it a try, wasn’t going to happen. Looks like a run to Sears. Having found the 8mm swivel that the other more accomplish folks already had. Boy now that I have this little guy I can knock this out in no time.Home with new swivel in hand, back to my job at hand.

The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?

Off back to the store and picked up a long magnet and one of those three finger grabbers. Back home I go. Worked on getting the socket out from inside the frame for another half hour, but out it come.
Now I have a long extension with my swivel stuck right on the end, I move it with all the dexterity of a surgeon. I got it! I got it! Pop off it comes. Feeling quite amazed that things were going so well.

Started at 9:00 and it’s only 11:30 and I have the thing out. Shoved the new one in from the bottom as instructed, gasket on, top bolt started with some lock tight on. Bottom bolt started with the new hack saw cut right down the middle and away we go!

All in all it was quite an easy job, even for a fat finger old guy setting at home recuperating from surgery. 
It was made easy by the guys that posted here earlier, thanks. The pic where great and the cutting of the bolt head superb..

I feel much more relaxed riding with a new CCT installed by me.
GC


You saved the big bucks AND had more tools than when you started. Win Win 

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#68 timk

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:40 AM

Got mine changed. About4 hrs. Ended up only using a 8mm craftsman wrench and a Craftsman 5/16 out of a ignition set. Sure glad bolts came out with fingers. Slotted the botom bolt only,as there was no need to do the upper. Used hemastat on all 3 bolts. The adjuster cover bolt . was the most challaging,should've slotted it. It was making noise at idle after warm. Gonna take it out AFTER I HAVE to help wifey paint a ceiling. Thanks for all the photos and tips. BTW mine is a 05 54000 miles. One more question, has anyone dared to enlarge the access hole so a 8mm socket would go right to the bolt? I know it sounds scary messing with a frame. 
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#69 yamafitter

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 02:32 PM

One more question, has anyone dared to enlarge the access hole so a 8mm socket would go right to the bolt? I know it sounds scary messing with a frame.

I would strongly recommend not making any modifications to the frame since there is no really valid reason for doing so. Removing metal from a stressed member of the frame is never a good idea IMHO. 

Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"

#70 NBB

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 06:49 AM

I changed my CCT at tech day and a couple of tools that should be at hand include, a 8mm and 10mm 12 point narrow (thin) short box end wrenches and a 1/4 in drive flex shaft driver (long enough to go through the hole in the frame and reach the bolts) for quickly spinning out the 8mm bolts. 

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#71 velvet fog

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 09:42 AM

Glad to see my bookmark still finds this thread after the "upgrade".read.gif

 

Has anyone tried replacing the bottom bolt with an allen head or torx head bolt?  

#72 AuburnFJR

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 09:53 AM

Glad to see my bookmark still finds this thread after the "upgrade".:read:
 
Has anyone tried replacing the bottom bolt with an allen head or torx head bolt?  


Just take a Dremel and cut a slot in the bolt head so you can turn it with a screwdriver. Torx and Allen have the same issue that you can't get on them straight on. 

get out and ride! IBA #54706

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#73 dcarver

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 11:56 AM

The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?

 

I use 1.5 wraps of electrical tape to keep things in place. Clean surfaces first, tape it up, all is good.

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    #74 FJRay

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    Posted 02 December 2012 - 03:19 PM

    There is more than one out there with lost sockets in the frame.rolleyessmileyanim.gif

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    #75 supertankerm60a3

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    Posted 02 December 2012 - 08:11 PM

    I enlarged the frame hole.  good bod or (most likely) indifferent.  I drilled a 1/4" hole perpendicular to the forward, exit, side of the access hole then used  the same drill bit with lateral force to cut off the sloppy flashing at the edge of it that was left over from either the casting or forging process.  If the hole was cleanly made the flashing would not be there.  If the flashing was not there then a 1/4" drive socket extension would fit with the angle needed to connect to the bolt that hides behind it.

     

    I really don't see how removing 3 grams of material from the center of a beam could cause a problem in anything less stressed than an aircraft.  If the FJ were all that tightly engineered the sloppy flashing would never had the sloppy flashing in the first place.


    A bike will keep you young, the wrong bike will stop you from getting older. There is a difference.

    #76 velvet fog

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    Posted 18 May 2013 - 12:36 PM

    Just finished changing my CCT, about 3 hours including a trip to the tool store for a cheap screwdriver.

     

    Couple of tips:

     

    The hole in the CCT  for the adjuster screw was too small for any of my screwdrivers to reach deep enough to turn the screw.  I ended up buying a cheap one at Kent Tool and grinding the tip narrower.

     

    On a gen 1, you don't need to remove the tank, lifting it is enough.

     

    The new CCT wouldn't lock into the retracted position, I had to use the little locking tab that came with the new part.  Removing it after installing the new CCT was not a problem.

     

    The Kobalt racheting 8mm wrench I bought wouldn't fit the lower bolt because there isn't enough clearance around the bolt head for the wrench.  My craftsman 8mm combo wrench worked just fine.

    #77 floorman67

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    Posted 14 July 2013 - 03:02 PM

    Thanks so much! After reading the article while I was on vacation on my bike last week, I changed mine this afternoon. All noise is gone and no leaks! Great write up! 

    #78 Moosehead

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    Posted 08 August 2013 - 09:15 AM

    Thanks so much guys for this detailed write up. I read it several times and followed every step. Everything went smooth and as predicted. The new CCT had much more spring pressure. Mine was so bad it sounded like a Diesel engine at idle. Total time was 3 hrs start to finish. 

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    #79 FJRMGM

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    Posted 09 August 2013 - 06:58 AM

    lots of good tips on how to git 'er done in this thread!!

    I now live in motorcycling paradise - NW Arkansas!!

    #80 Dan23

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    Posted 06 October 2013 - 12:01 PM

    I just finished changing the CCT on my bike and the engine does sound quieter even if I never thought it noisy except for one brief incidence.

     

    I didn't do the slotted bolt trick, but I think that's a good idea for those who prefer it. No two cats are skinned alike.

     

    I considered enlarging the frame hole a bit, but didn't do that either. I bought a kit of Craftsman metric ignition wrenches for ~$22. I also cut a 1/4" drive 8mm socket shorter and it fit better. That way I could use a flexible drive and extension to run the pair of bolts in; final tightening with the ignition wrench and regular 8mm.

     

    Another good tip previously mentioned is using plastic electrical tape to hold bolts to tools or in some cases slightly alter tools temporarily for certain jobs.

     

    That's about it from me except to say thanks to everyone posting here.

     

     

    SoCalFJR1300

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    Posted 10 October 2013 - 12:01 AM

    Just a FYI for the collective.

     

    I have a 2008 and it does NOT have the "updated" Blue Dot CCT.......no blue anywhere.

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    #82 RaYzerman19

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    Posted 10 October 2013 - 06:33 AM

    Just a FYI for the collective.

     

    I have a 2008 and it does NOT have the "updated" Blue Dot CCT.......no blue anywhere.

    The OEM one may not, my '07 had the revised one and your '08 will have too.  IIRC, the revision took place sometime in '07.  I have bought three or four for changes on other bikes, one did not have the blue dot but was the revised one (part no. 5JW-12210-10-00 now 1MC-12210-00-00).

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    #83 SoCalFJR1300

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    Posted 10 October 2013 - 08:28 AM

    Just a FYI for the collective.

     

    I have a 2008 and it does NOT have the "updated" Blue Dot CCT.......no blue anywhere.

    The OEM one may not, my '07 had the revised one and your '08 will have too.  IIRC, the revision took place sometime in '07.  I have bought three or four for changes on other bikes, one did not have the blue dot but was the revised one (part no. 5JW-12210-10-00 now 1MC-12210-00-00).

     

    Ah...well that's good to know!

     

    I was just going to change mine out at about 30,000 miles just to be safe...Thanks for the info.

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    #84 Twigg

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    Posted 04 July 2014 - 05:14 PM

    Well that came out easily, once I had cut a small wrench to a length that would clear the clutch cover, and ground my longest, thinnest scredriver down to a size that would back-off the tension.

     

    Parts arriving tomorrow, let's hope it goes back together without fuss :D

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    #85 Brodie

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    Posted 04 July 2014 - 11:26 PM

    Twigg

     

    Take the right side crank shaft cover off as well as the valve cover. Make sure the marks line up correctly - Visually - when you install the new tensioner. 

     

    This can cause major damage if you skip several teeth. Make the extra effort to get it right. It's not rocket science, just pay attention to detail, as I'm sure you are.

     

    Good luck.

     

    Brodie

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    #86 Twigg

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    Posted 04 July 2014 - 11:36 PM

    Thanks Brodie.

     

    I removed the cover and zip-tied the chain guides before I moved the CCT.

     

    Here are the "special" tools I had to make:

     

    The screwdriver had to be ground to fit the CCT back-off screw, and that wrench will never be the same again

     

    DSCN0095-L.jpg

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    #87 Brodie

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:01 AM

    Hey, that wrench looks quite a bit like mine.

     

    I used two wrenches, the cut one and another uncut box wrench. The cut one I heated and straightened the box relative to the handle, that way I could flip it and get a different position for really tight spaces. Also, between the 2 two wrenches, the 12 point broach are slightly out of phase from each other. Anything to get the needed wrench swing.

     

    I figure hand tools are cheap compared to my time. If I have to heat the tip of a flat blade screw driver to redirect it, or cut a wrench, I'm all on it. I just make sure to replace it the next time I go to the store. Some of my handiest tools are the ones that I modified to make it work. I even have a stainless bicycle spoke that I cut and reshaped the end for extracting the pins in the Sumitomo  connectors on the bike. I just used it again today.

     

    Brodie

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    #88 Twigg

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:12 AM

    I felt like a vandal, cutting that wrench, but I decided that I wasn't damaging a tool, I was making one :)

     

    It's good to be among engineers ... or at least guys with a few practical skills.

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    #89 Brodie

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:27 AM

    I'm not an engineer, just a Machinist. Though I've heard the difference between them is that a Machinist has to wash his hands beforegoing to the bathroom.

     

    I do count it an honor to learn from the really smart people on this FJRForum. I try hard to give back to the community but I'm still at a deficit.

     

     

    Brodie

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    #90 Twigg

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 02:30 AM

     I try hard to give back to the community but I'm still at a deficit.

     

     

    Brodie

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    From my reading so far, I doubt this :) There seems to be everyone here ... from the guys who could rebuild an FJR engine with a nutcracker and a torque wrench ... in the dark, to those who have the dealer change their oil!

     

    For my own part, many years ago I learned how to machine parts to tolerances of +or-  2/10 000 ths of an inch, which we referred to as a "gnat's cock" ... The real experts could get to half a gnat's.

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    #91 Brodie

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 02:43 AM

    +/-.0002, yup that's close. You learn to factor in ambient temprature in your measurement. 

    Try turning and holding +/- .001 on a 40 inch segmented turbine shroud with a 45 year old tubular micrometer and ww2 vintage standards (calibrated of course), in the winter time, on graveyard shift - no problem. 


    Brodie
    ;-) 

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    #92 Twigg

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 02:58 AM

    +/-.0002, yup that's close. You learn to factor in ambient temprature in your measurement.

    Try turning and holding +/- .001 on a 40 inch segmented turbine shroud with a 45 year old tubular micrometer and ww2 vintage standards (calibrated of course), in the winter time, on graveyard shift - no problem.


    Brodie
    ;-)

     

    I couldn't do it any more. It's at least 30 years since I have used a lathe, milling machine or surface grinder.

     

    My Dad could ... He worked in a toolroom that built and repaired injection moulding tools. They had to "fit" to those tolerances and if he had to lap the material down, that's what he did. I can see him now at his bench with a small hardwood stick and some diamond paste.

     

    Production tolerances were wider ... usually +or- 0.002", but the tooling was so tightly made that the halves made a sucking sound, and a "pop" when you separated them.

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    #93 Fred W

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 03:32 AM

    Back to the CCT bolts...

     

    I have 4 different 8mm combination wrenches, two of the type with the fine ratcheting box end, one regular combination with 6 point box, and one with a 12 point box end, and between them all I can generally (changed a few of them now) find one that will break the factory tightened bolts loose. 

     

    Once loosened, I have a pack of tiny ignition wrenches (you know the ones that Sears throws into a tool set to up the "piece" count?) and found that one of the inch size box ends (forget which one exactly) is a "close enough" fit on the 8mm bolt heads to allow you to back out those bolts using that.  I'd guess that a lot of you have that same packet of ignition wrenches buried in your tool boxes, so dig 'em out and give 'em a try.  They may work for you (as they do for me)

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    #94 timk

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 04:40 AM

    Back to the CCT bolts...

     

    I have 4 different 8mm combination wrenches, two of the type with the fine ratcheting box end, one regular combination with 6 point box, and one with a 12 point box end, and between them all I can generally (changed a few of them now) find one that will break the factory tightened bolts loose. 

     

    Once loosened, I have a pack of tiny ignition wrenches (you know the ones that Sears throws into a tool set to up the "piece" count?) and found that one of the inch size box ends (forget which one exactly) is a "close enough" fit on the 8mm bolt heads to allow you to back out those bolts using that.  I'd guess that a lot of you have that same packet of ignition wrenches buried in your tool boxes, so dig 'em out and give 'em a try.  They may work for you (as they do for me)

    Me too on the gnition wrenches.

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    #95 Twigg

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 03:06 PM

    Cam Chain Tensioner has arrived, and I thought it worth mentioning because ...

     

    I ordered the upgraded part from the first post here. That would be the "Blue Spot" part, from Ron Ayres.

     

    What arrived can be seen in the picture:

     

    DSCN0097-L.jpg

     

    It appears that whatever you order, Ron Ayres is actually shipping the latest incarnation.

     

    Now all I have to do is fit it and, btw, it will not stay retracted without the plastic locking tab ... just for information.

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    #96 Twigg

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 04:41 PM

    All buttoned up. Fiddly job more than difficult.

     

    Cam chain is restored to silence.

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    #97 Brodie

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    Posted 05 July 2014 - 06:14 PM

    Good News !!!

     

    Now go ride the wheels off that beast!

     

    And don't forget to write.

     

     

     

     

    Brodie

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    #98 Constant Mesh

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    Posted 12 July 2014 - 12:59 PM

    A suggestion for removing/installing the lower bolt.  I haven't tried it but I believe it could work and offer some efficiency.

     

    Once you break the bolt loose with a wrench slide/force a short bit of 5/16" ID vinyl or rubber tubing onto the bolt head and rotate the bolt out with the flexible tubing.  I believe there's enough room to get the tubing into position and onto the bolt.  The OD of the tubing would be too big to go through the hole in the frame (screwdriver portal) but I believe it could be brought in from below or possibly from inside routed below the CCT.

    #99 hppants

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    Posted 13 July 2014 - 02:19 PM

    I have a question - The parts link that Yamafitter offers in the OP is no longer valid.  Here's a screen shot from Parkshark.com from today (July 13, 2014).  Is #6 and #7 what I need?  The part numbers offered by Yamafitter do not match these.  The replacement CCT from Yamaha is the way to go?  Or do I need an aftermarket CCT?  Thanks.

     

    CCTpicture_zpsbda13caa.jpg

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    #100 TomInPA

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    Posted 13 July 2014 - 03:28 PM

    #6 and #7 are what you need.  Most of us have used the updated OEM part with no problems, but Radiohowie for one used an aftermarket manual tensioner.   I replaced my CCT on the 2005 several years ago.  I think you will notice a significant difference in engine noise, especially during warmup.

    It's a good day to ride...JSNS

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    Posted 14 July 2014 - 04:09 AM

    I just checked both on the Yamaha USA & Canada parts websites and there was a part number change for the chain tensioner with the introduction of the Gen III in 2013. They did not update the part numbers for any of the previous years models however. Based on what Twigg posted earlier it would appear that the new Gen III part is interchangable with earlier models but I just can't prove it through the parts listings. The Gen III chain tensioner is part # 1MC-12210-00-00 in case you were wondering.

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    #102 Twigg

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    Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:06 AM

    That's the part I got, but not the one I ordered. Seems that at least RonAyres is substituting.

     

    Fitted the Gen 1 just fine.

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    #103 ionbeam

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    Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:16 AM

    That's the part I got, but not the one I ordered. Seems that at least RonAyres is substituting.

     

    Some replacement parts are considered to be 'backwards compatible' and will replace any older part in the field as well as being suitable for current use.  No matter what P/N for the item you ordered you will receive the latest part.  This also consolidates the number of parts that need to be manufactured and stocked.  It's a good thing :)

    #104 hppants

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    Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:50 AM

    I ordered a new CCT and gskt from Parkshark.com today.  My next valve check comes up in about 2K, and that should be a good time to do this.  Since I was ordering a couple other minor parts anyway, I went ahead and got everything for the valve check and CCT replacement too.  Now I'll be ready to go without delay.

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    #105 hppants

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    Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:07 AM

    Update - all parts arrived as ordered.  CCT has the desired "blue dot".  A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush.  I've printed and read this thread many times.  It's time to take a deep breath and do it.

     

    I would NEVER attempt this without this thread.  Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.

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    #106 Twigg

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    Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:50 AM

    Update - all parts arrived as ordered.  CCT has the desired "blue dot".  A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush.  I've printed and read this thread many times.  It's time to take a deep breath and do it.

     

    I would NEVER attempt this without this thread.  Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.

     

    That's odd ... I ordered the part with the part# for the blue dot, and I got the part with the green dot :D

     

    Whatever, the change was straightforward, just a little fiddly is all.

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    #107 wheatonFJR

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    Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:55 AM


    Update - all parts arrived as ordered.  CCT has the desired "blue dot".  A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush.  I've printed and read this thread many times.  It's time to take a deep breath and do it.
     
    I would NEVER attempt this without this thread.  Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.

     
    That's odd ... I ordered the part with the part# for the blue dot, and I got the part with the green dot biggrin.png
     
    Whatever, the change was straightforward, just a little fiddly is all.
     

     


    Green dot?

    Ruh Roh!


    That goes to one of the French detuned FJRs. Your FJR will now top out at 100mph...max.


    Better go back in with the Blue Dot. 
    Iggy's a douchetard.  JSNS
     

    #108 Twigg

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    Posted 15 August 2014 - 05:09 AM


    Update - all parts arrived as ordered.  CCT has the desired "blue dot".  A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush.  I've printed and read this thread many times.  It's time to take a deep breath and do it.
     
    I would NEVER attempt this without this thread.  Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.

     
    That's odd ... I ordered the part with the part# for the blue dot, and I got the part with the green dot biggrin.png
     
    Whatever, the change was straightforward, just a little fiddly is all.
     

     


    Green dot?

    Ruh Roh!


    That goes to one of the French detuned FJRs. Your FJR will now top out at 100mph...max.


    Better go back in with the Blue Dot.

     

    Not true ... The French model tops 175 mph if you add a little garlic to the gas :P

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    #109 mcatrophy

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    Posted 15 August 2014 - 06:15 AM

    ...
    That goes to one of the French detuned FJRs. Your FJR will now top out at 100mph...max.
    ...


    Errmmm ....

     

    0_DSCF8357.JPG 0_DSCF8357_cr2.JPG


     

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    #110 Mr. BR

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    Posted 18 August 2014 - 08:54 PM

    Mine is sort of a greenish blue dot... installation coming one of these weekends.

    Mr. BR

    newCTT.jpg

    #111 hppants

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    Posted 19 August 2014 - 05:27 AM

    Just to correct my previous post #105, when I unpackaged the CCT, in fact, the dot is green.  I confirmed it as the correct part number and it's going to get installed on my bike.

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    #112 ULEWZ

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    Posted 19 August 2014 - 11:37 AM

    Time for a dumb question. I adjust valves on my dirtbikes all the time, requiring retracting the CCT, so that is why I ask the following:

    Why do we need to tywrap the cam chain to perform the CCT replacement?

    Is there that much slack in the chain that it will spin and skip a tooth on the cams?

    I would think the weight of the chain would keep it in place on the teeth.

    Does the insertion of the CCT cause the chain to move enough to skip a tooth?

    It takes a lot of work on my dirtbikes to move the chain one tooth.

    Is the lower gear the issue?

    Sorry again for the dumb question, just asking.

    I read on another forum about using a No. 8 socket and a slotted screwdriver inserted into the socket, then a vice grip on the screwdriver, to break the lower bolt free. Sounds promising.

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    #113 Twigg

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    Posted 19 August 2014 - 01:41 PM

    Time for a dumb question. I adjust valves on my dirtbikes all the time, requiring retracting the CCT, so that is why I ask the following:

    Why do we need to tywrap the cam chain to perform the CCT replacement?

    Is there that much slack in the chain that it will spin and skip a tooth on the cams?

    I would think the weight of the chain would keep it in place on the teeth.

    Does the insertion of the CCT cause the chain to move enough to skip a tooth?

    It takes a lot of work on my dirtbikes to move the chain one tooth.

    Is the lower gear the issue?

    Sorry again for the dumb question, just asking.

    I read on another forum about using a No. 8 socket and a slotted screwdriver inserted into the socket, then a vice grip on the screwdriver, to break the lower bolt free. Sounds promising.

     

    There is a chance the cam chain will skip a tooth, yes.

     

    Why risk it for the sake of a tie-wrap that fits very easily around the chain guides.

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    #114 ionbeam

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    Posted 19 August 2014 - 01:56 PM

    ...Why do we need to tywrap the cam chain to perform the CCT replacement?

    Is there that much slack in the chain that it will spin and skip a tooth on the cams?

    I would think the weight of the chain would keep it in place on the teeth....

     

    There is a chance the cam chain will skip a tooth, yes.

     

    Why risk it for the sake of a tie-wrap that fits very easily around the chain guides.

     

    If you are changing the CCT with the valve cover in place there is a chain guide in the valve cover (Item 5) that should prevent the chain from skipping a tooth on the cams.  But, there is enough slack that you can skip a tooth on the crank sprocket.  One tooth on the crank sprocket is way more significant than a tooth on a cam gear sprocket.  You may get away with one tooth on the crank, but two teeth, well, you don't want to go there.

     

    Item 5:

     

    CamChainGuides_zps7fbbb13e.jpg

    #115 hppants

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    Posted 24 August 2014 - 02:31 PM

    Finished mine yesterday.  Few observations, although nothing really earth-shattering:

     

    1.  Being paranoid about the cam chain moving on me, I placed a zip tie around each chain guide under the cover.  Since I was checking valves at the same time, and had the cam cover off, I also zip tied the chain to each cam gear.  That baby didn't move.  Looking back, if someone is planning to do this at the same time as a valve check, it may not be necessary to remove the timing cover.  Start with the center plug to reveal the crank bolt.  Then check your valves.  If none need adjustment, then you can just zip-tie the chain to the cam gears for the CCT replacement and leave the timing cover on.

     

    2.  The "cut a slot in the bolts so you can use a long screw driver to start them" idea is ingenious.  Once snug, I was able to use a wrench to tighten them up.

     

    3.  To keep the CCT paper gskt from moving around, I put just a spec of high-temp RTV on two spots.  One less thing to worry about.

     

    4.  I also put a spec of RTV on the retraction access bolt washer to keep it from flopping off while I was moving it into position.

     

    5.  I was sure that if I didn't cover the frame hole on the inside, something was going to fall in there.  So I covered the hole with some painter's tape (the blue tape).  When re-assembly time came around, I just used my screwdriver that I was snugging bolts up with to poke a hole in my painter's tape, giving me the best of both worlds.

     

    6.  The "how-do" says to exercise the new CCT back and forth a couple turns so that you can feel it against the cam chain.  I did that and was successful.  However, when finished with that exercise, I noticed that the chain was not very tight.  The how-do then says to rotate the engine and this was very helpful.  In just 2 rotations, the new CCT tightened up the chain very well - and it was much tighter than the original CCT.

     

    The result of this is a much quieter start (especially a cold start).  I now know that my original CCT was MUCH weaker than the replacement part.  I'm sure part of that is because the upgraded part is a stiffer spring.  But how much of that is my original CCT spring fixing to crap the bucket and grenade my motor?  I'll never know, but I feel much better now.

    ce4e895b-c6b5-474c-9ea2-6c60b2778940_zps

    #116 Mr. BR

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    Posted 30 August 2014 - 08:55 PM

    First, thanks to the OP for the tips on CCT swap.  I just did mine tonight on my ’05 and it was no big deal at all. I had the old CCT removed in 1 hr but it was another 2 before I got everything buttoned up.  I also used a shortened 8mm wrench for the bottom bolt which clears the clutch cover… worked great.  I did cut a slot in both CCT bolts and the top one went in easily but for the bottom, I used a rubber hose to push against the bolt while rotating it and got it threaded in no time at all.  My new CCT also would not stay in the retracted position so I left the little “key” in place during installation.  I spent 20 min fooling around with the screw at the end of the CCT before I read the OP’s tips and then got it installed quickly using long tweezers and a screwdriver.  And yes, the new CCT is clearly stronger than the old unit.

    Here’s a few pictures….

    Regards,

    Brendan

     

    shortwrench.jpg

    CCTshortwrench.jpg

    bothCCT.jpg

    readyfornewCCT.jpg

    CCTbottombolt.jpg

     

    #117 Canadian FJR

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    Posted 27 January 2015 - 12:43 PM

    Post up the mileage that you guys changed out your CCT.






    Thanks,
    Canadian FJR 
    From the tropics of Canada

    #118 Fred W

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    Posted 27 January 2015 - 12:51 PM

    There's already a poll thread on that topic running somewhere on here

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    #119 DezzertRider

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    Posted 25 November 2015 - 01:21 AM

    I'm in the process of doing my first valve check/adjustment.  I decided while I have everything apart, I may as well replace the CCT.  The idea of using small ignition type of wrenches is what got me over the hump.  I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt.  I was able to get the bottom bolt out in about 10 minutes.  Thanks for the excellent write up!  You can never have too many tools! 

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    #120 RossKean

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    Posted 25 November 2015 - 04:37 AM

    ... I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt.

    Maybe 5/16"?? 
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    rehabgen1

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    Posted 03 December 2015 - 10:20 PM

    Thanks for lowering the intimidation factor by 90% at least. Trying to get all the details right before the the start up! 

    #122 DezzertRider

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    Posted 13 December 2015 - 05:17 PM

    ... I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt.

    Maybe 5/16"??

    Thanks for the correction, yes it was 5/16"

    "I don't want a pickle, I just want to ride on my motor-sikle" - The Motorcycle song by Arlo Guthrie

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    #123 donaldb

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    Posted 29 February 2016 - 12:32 PM

    Thanks again FJRForum. I know I don't visit often like I used to. Yes, I still have my 04 FJR, pulling a trailer with it now and picking up stickers along the way of my travel conquests. Have seen most of USA from that stock saddle. Hope to continue seeing more in the years to come. My cam chain started rattling and clattering a few weeks ago, so I came back here for research on the subject. I knew if it was anywhere to be found this would be the place. Followed the directions and replaced the CCT last Friday and things could not have gone smoother. The old FJR is humming like a sewing machine again. Can't believe the difference the new CCT made. Anyway, hope to see you guys on the road sometime.

     

    Working on a trip up the Blue Ridge Pkwy, and parallel the Appalachian along back roads to the end marker in northern Maine. Trip tentatively set for October. Hope to ride a little in Vermont and New Hampshire along the way. With the new CCT I think the trip is possible now. Not sure what I would have done without my trusted 04. Best Regards, Bruce

    NEVER TRUST NOBODY

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    #124 gdt3

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    Posted 27 March 2017 - 04:02 PM

    I just bought my 2005 FJR and took it apart enough to see the CCT. I looked for a blue dot but couldn't see one. I can't see one in the pictures posted here either. My bike has 65,000 km (40,000 mi) on it. What is the opinion of whether this needs changing or not? Please.

    Thanks,

    Don

    #125 RossKean

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    Posted 27 March 2017 - 04:17 PM

    Change it!

    No questions, debate or anything else. Simply not worth the risk.
    Chances are, you will have some warning before it fails (maybe). Listen for rattling (can of marbles) on the right side; especially when engine is cold. 
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    #126 Fred W

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    Posted 27 March 2017 - 04:32 PM

    Yeah, plan on replacing it. If it isn't making the noises described yet then there is no rush, and it's a job you want to do correctly since you can do harm if not done right. But the 1st gen CCTs all could use an upgrade. 

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    #127 wetwolf

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    Posted 27 March 2017 - 07:21 PM

    Did the 1st valve check since I have owned the bike. (50K, bought it at 48K) GEN1  always been rattlin a little on the right side. Once you get far enough into the bike, the CCT is a cakewalk.

     

    Mind you, I haven't actualy had the CCT out of the engine yet, but i managed to change 4 shims on the intake side without fukin up the timing. Once the CCT gets here, it will be a tite squeeze to put it in, but this friggin bike is about as tightly packed as a honda jetski.  Learn what you need to take off to get the job done. The 1st time you will always take off more stuff than you need to.

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    #128 Fred W

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    Posted 28 March 2017 - 04:46 AM

    Yeah, the main interference for CCT removal and replacement is the darned frame itself.  But you definitely also want to take the timing cover off to secure the chain, which means removal of the right lower faring panel.  Otherwise it's just an exercise in testing your manual dexterity.  ;)

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    #129 marktitley

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    Posted 28 June 2017 - 08:03 AM

    So, I am intalling my new tensioner this evening, took me 2 days to get the lower bolt loose, Ugh. My question is, after I install and tighten it up i know to release the pin. You mentioned manually turning the engine.... How do I do this without starting the bike? Please be detailed since this is my first timesmile.png



    So, I am intalling my new tensioner this evening, took me 2 days to get the lower bolt loose, Ugh. My question is, after I install and tighten it up i know to release the pin. You mentioned manually turning the engine.... How do I do this without starting the bike? Please be detailed since this is my first timesmile.png

    #130 RossKean

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    Posted 28 June 2017 - 08:24 AM

    You can turn the engine with a socket wrench (under the timing cover) I assume you are doing this with the timing cover removed anyway to ensure you don't skip a tooth? Easier if the spark plugs are out so you aren't fighting compression. Alternatively, with the bike on the centerstand and the transmission in fifth gear, the engine can be turned over by rotating the rear wheel. Takes a bit of effort. 
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    #131 08FJR4ME

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    Posted 28 June 2017 - 06:13 PM

    If on the center stand in gear wouldn't the engine spin? I believe so and that may be the easiest. Then again I haven't done the job yet. Been rattling for over a year now. I try not to rev the engine since that's when I hear it most.

     

    Dave

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    #132 RossKean

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    Posted 28 June 2017 - 06:41 PM

    If on the center stand in gear wouldn't the engine spin? I believe so and that may be the easiest. Then again I haven't done the job yet. Been rattling for over a year now. I try not to rev the engine since that's when I hear it most.
     
    Dave
    Ask ionbeam or Radio Howie if they think you should wait until you can "find the time".

    Although you can turn the engine over in a controlled non-powered fashion using the rear wheel in 5th gear, its pretty easy to do it with a socket wrench on the crank. You should have the timing cover off to secure the chain anyway. 
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    #133 PhilJet09

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    Posted 28 June 2017 - 06:47 PM

    If on the center stand in gear wouldn't the engine spin? I believe so and that may be the easiest. Then again I haven't done the job yet. Been rattling for over a year now. I try not to rev the engine since that's when I hear it most.
     
    Dave
    Dave, just do it, it isn't bad at all. I combined it with this year's "winter service", which means all my fairings, radiator, exhaust and the whole top of the motor was removed (including the throttle bodies). Piece of cake then. :lol:
    Petey is my hero.

    #134 twistedcricket

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    Posted 07 August 2017 - 06:25 PM

    So I just completed this and I'm standing at the bike with it in 5th gear. Wheel spins, but I can't see the chain well. What am I looking for if I didn't have the ty-wrap tight enough? I really don't think it skipped during the change, but I'd like some guidance before I put everything back together. Thanks a million for this write-up and the subsequent follow-ups. This is not a difficult task. Just be sure to read that you need a 1/4" flat screwdriver at least 6" long... a trip to the big box store and $4 got me what I needed for that bit. 
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    #135 Fred W

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    Posted 08 August 2017 - 04:19 AM

    With the chain cover still off you can use a socket to turn the engine over a couple of times. If you have the spark plugs out it will turn over easier, but can be turned against the compression if needed. Turn it slowly and make sure you don't hit any mechanical resistance. This will ensure that you won't have a catastrophe when you thumb the starter button the first time.

    If you took the proper precautions and never allowed the chain to slacken during the CCT replacement, then there is very little chance it jumped a tooth on any of the sprockets. 

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    #136 rbentnail

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    Posted 08 August 2017 - 10:00 AM

    IMHO if you have any doubt whatsoever, ANY DOUBT, then consider doing it the only reliable, 100% fool-proof way instead of half-assing it and even remotely risking damaging anything.  Remove the side cover, remove the valve cover, check the 3 timing marks.  It's the only way to be absolutely sure you haven't screwed it up.  Man, if I had a 5-spot for every person that said something like, "I really don't think it skipped [a tooth] during the change" or during a valve shim replacement only to find out that it had I think I'd be a gaziilionaire!

    I think sometimes folks are just a little too anal about oils & filters & coolant & specs & torque & batteries & spark plugs & reed valves & tires & brakes & shift levers & CCTs & light bulbs & winterizing & cleanliness & splines & trailering & clothing & gas mileage & stuff.

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    #137 twistedcricket

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    Posted 08 August 2017 - 10:11 AM

    With the chain cover still off you can use a socket to turn the engine over a couple of times. If you have the spark plugs out it will turn over easier, but can be turned against the compression if needed. Turn it slowly and make sure you don't hit any mechanical resistance. This will ensure that you won't have a catastrophe when you thumb the starter button the first time.

    If you took the proper precautions and never allowed the chain to slacken during the CCT replacement, then there is very little chance it jumped a tooth on any of the sprockets.

     

    I had the ty-wrap/ziptie as tight as I could get it by hand. I did not remove it until I had all three bolts tight on the tensioner.  I was turning the wheel, against the compression, but I did not hear any metal clanking.  I may remove spark plugs, because I should inspect them anyway, and make it easier to turn and detect resistance.

     

    IMHO if you have any doubt whatsoever, ANY DOUBT, then consider doing it the only reliable, 100% fool-proof way instead of half-assing it and even remotely risking damaging anything.  Remove the side cover, remove the valve cover, check the 3 timing marks.  It's the only way to be absolutely sure you haven't screwed it up. 

     

    I will look in my service manual for details. Thanks!

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    #138 rtesta65

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    Posted 24 February 2018 - 07:42 PM

    Changed mine today.  Thanks so much for this write up. 

     

    My 2 cents - 

     

    • Cover the hole in the frame with tape.  I dropped the original bolt for the adjuster hole in there lickity split. I should have heeded the warning from others.
       
    • Get an ignition wrench or a half moon wrench for that pesky lower bolt.  I cut an 8mm wrench down with a hacksaw and used that to break the bolt.  For tightening, I alternated between an 8mm box end and a 5/16" box end.  The teeth in the box end were offset just enough between the two wrenches.
       
    • Go ahead and get a replacement gasket for the chain cover.  

    Mine is an '08 and the spring tension in the old tensioner was weaker than the new green dot one.  I haven't started it up yet because I'm changing the plugs tomorrow.

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    #139 Bustanut joker

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    Posted 25 February 2018 - 09:35 AM

    • Get an ignition wrench or a half moon wrench for that pesky lower bolt.  I cut an 8mm wrench down with a hacksaw and used that to break the bolt.  For tightening, I alternated between an 8mm box end and a 5/16" box end.  The teeth in the box end were offset just enough between the two wrenches.


      I see you missed the part where it was suggested you use that same hacksaw to slot the tensioner bolt/ screw head. It's no fun tightening it your way wacko.png
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    Los Robustos M/C member #18 Darksider #28

    #140 mech 1 twa

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    Posted 25 February 2018 - 06:26 PM

    Only turn it clockwise. Other way it will jump chain. 14 mm bolt on crank.

     

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