DON'T PANIC!! We will not be removing the motor for this procedure.
This is a list of the parts for all generations of the FJR:
- CCT (updated blue dot) - Tension Assembly, CAM - Yamaha Part# 5JW12210-10-00 (item 6)
- CCT gasket - Gasket, Tensioner CA - 5JW-12213-00-00 (item 7)
- Cam Chain Cover Gasket - Gasket, Oil Pump Cover - 5JW-15456-11-00 (item 30)
NOTE - The Gen I have the Oil Pump Cover Gasket listed as 5JW-15456-00-00. The Gen II before 2008 list the part as 5JW-15456-10-00 however all three versions of the FJR (Gen I, Gen II prior 2008 and cureent Gen II) share the same Oil Pump Cover (5JW-15416-00-00). Based on this all three gaskets should be interchangable. It appears the gasket was upgraded the same time that the CCT was.
Here are the tools required to change the Cam Chain Tensioner using the Bustanut Owosso method...
From the top right going clockwise
- 10mm ignition wrench
- 8 mm ignition wrench
- 8 mm gear ratchet wrench
- 8 mm conbination wrench
- 10mm gear ratchet wrench
- 1/8" x 6" standard screwdriver
- Cam Chain Tensioner
- gasket
- long tweezers - about 4"
- some sort of lightsource - I like my Clearwater LED flashlight
Other tools for pulling the cam chain cover and panels
- 5mm Allen Key for cam chain cover
- 4mm Allen Key for plastics - not shown
- small pick for popping plastic grommet fasteners (beside battery) - not shown
Remove the seats & gas tank.
For Gen II's remove T-Bar & heat shield.
Next remove the dash covers on the righthand side and righthand lower cowling. If you have frame sliders the righthand slider will also have to removed.
Step 2 -
Remove the cam chain cover and place a ty-rap around the cam chain guides. Tighten the ty-rap to hold the cam chain in position for the rest of this procedure.
Also remove the bracket holding the idle speed adjustment screw and move the bracket out of the way.
Looking from the top you will be able to see the CCT between the frame and the throttle bodies...
Step 3 -
Remove the access plug in the frame.
Using a 10mm wrench start removing the bolt that covers the access to CCT adjuster. see photo below.
This nut will not the modified yet so either using the 10mm ignition wrench or your fingers remove the screw.
Photo of CCT with screwdriver inserted into access port - CCT is in the 'extended' position
Insert the screwdriver through the access in the frame and into the CCT. Turn the screwdriver clockwise until you can no longer turn the adjuster in the CCT. Note - very little force required.
The CCT is now locked in the 'retracted' position.
Now for the PITA.
Step 4 -
Using the 8mm combination wrench break free the bolt closest the the throttle bodies.
Using either the 8mm combination wrent or the 8mm ignition wrench (whichever works best for you) break free the bolt closest to the frame.
Using the 8mm ignition wrench and / or fingers work the bolt closest to the frame out of the motor. Once loose use the tweezers to remove.
Using the 8mm gear ratchet wrench remove the bolt closest to the throttle body. I used a screwdriver pressed up against the ratcheting section to stop the wrench from spinning back. Again use the tweezers to remove once the bolt is loose.
Remove the CCT from the motor. There is only enough room to remove the CCT from below the frame.
Take a deep breath and a refreshment break - the hard part is done.
Step 5 - The Genius of the Owosso Way
Using a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel cut a slot in all three bolts so that the resulting slot will accept the screwdriver.
Step 6 -
The new CCT should have a blue dot. This dot goes to the top also the tab on the gasket goes to the top.
The new CCT has a retainer installed that is holding the CCT in the retracted position. I would suggest that you remove the retainer and using a screwdriver turn the adjuster a few turns counterclockwise until the CCT releases the spring and moves to the extended position. Turn the screwdriver clockwise the retract the CCT to the locked retracted position.
You should note that there is significantly more resistance offered by the new spring in the redesigned CCT.
Some folks now replace the retainer but I find it easier to leave it out. If your new CCT does not lock you will have to reinstall the retainer and then remove the retainer with needle nose pliers after installing the CCT.
Insert the new CCT & gasket from the bottom and place it into the motor opening.
Ensure that the blue dot on the CCT is facing up and the gasket tab is also up.
Step 7 -
Using tweezers to position the bolt start with the bolt closest to the throttle bodies. Using the screwdriver it is possible to angle the screwdriver into the modified bolt and use the screwdriver to spin the bolt in. Leave slightly loose for now.
Repeat the above process for the bolt closest to the frame turning it in as far as possible.
Using the 8mm ignition wrench tighten the bolt closest to the frame. You may need to use the 8mm combination to bring to final torque but these bolts are small so be careful. Breaking a bolt at this point means removing the motor.
Using the 8mm ratchet wrench tighten the bolt closest to the throttle bodies.
See how time saving that all was!!!
Step 8 -
Insert the screwdriver through the frame access and turn the CCT adjuster counterclockwise until the adjuster releases. You will feel the screwdriver spin when this occurs.
Using the screwdriver in the adjuster, exercise the tensioner a few times to confirm that the plunger is in fact hitting the chain guide. Now you can feel more comfortable releasing that ty-wrap (to be done a little later).
Using tweezers to position the screw use the screwdriver to install the CCT access screw cover.
Replace the frame access plug.
Step 9 - almost done!!
Remove the ty-rap from around the cam chain.
After cutting the ty-wrap and before buttoning things up, manually turn the engine through at least two complete crankshaft revolutions (crank turns CW from the right side) while observing the timing chain . If you are going to skip (or have already skipped) a tooth on a sprocket you want to discover that before thumbing the starter button. Obviously do not force it if you feel any obstruction.
Replace cam chain cover.
Replace Idle Speed Adjuster Bracket.
Replace all the tupperware.
You're DONE!!!
You must be hungry by now.
I rewarded myself with a pita from the Pita Deli in Whitby...
Thanks to Fred W & others for a few suggestions on improvements. I have made the upgrades.
continued...
Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 18 April 2011 - 07:34 AM
I'm guess that shipping will be more than the cost of the part.
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#42 yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 18 April 2011 - 08:01 AM
I did some research and it appears that in 2008 when the CCT was updated they also did an update on the cam chain cover gasket or what Yamaha calls the Oil Pump Cover Gasket (item #30). My '06 AE lists the cover gasket number as 5JW-15456-10-00.
There is no change in the actual cover since the part number for the cover is identical over all model years (Part # 5JW-15416-00-00)
Based on this the three gaskets appear to be interchangable and I would probably order the newer gasket regardless of what generation of FJR you have.
I will go into the original post and update with part numbers.
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
#43 BikerGeek99
Yeah, it's a concrete corn cob. So? Darksider #71
Posted 18 April 2011 - 09:23 AM
Not a dumb question at all.
Besides what Ray said, I'll add this: before the CCT swap on my bike last fall, upon startup (mainly with a cold engine, but sometimes when it was warm, as well), on the right side of the engine, I could hear a slight "click-clack-click-clack." Think of an old-style mechanical typewriter typing very rhythmically, heard through a door, and that's about what it sounded like.
After the swap - nothing. Quiet as can be.
#44 ZOOOMM
FJR Pilot
Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:05 PM
#45 Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:26 PM
That said, it wasn't really that much of a PITA on my '05. Make sure to pick up one of the (more expensive) 8mm ratcheting box end, combination wrenches from Sears. The cheap one has too course ratchet teeth. You'll see what I mean when you look at them.
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#46 yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:36 PM
Please try and let us know but I think you'll find that there will not be enough room between the frame to get an Allen socket onto the bolt closest to the frame. A long T-handle 'ball end' Allen wrench just might give you the proper alignment for the bolts holding the CCT. Unfortunately I think you'll find that there will not be enough room to then turn the T-handle though.
I'm thinking a ball-ended Allen bit using a 1/4" socket with a 'wobble' extension might be your best bet.
I found these bits on the web that have 'magic ring' for holding the screw. Here is the link:
Metric 'Magic Ring' Ball end Power Bits
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
#47 ionbeam
2 FUN
Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:38 PM
To remove the OEM bolts one tool that works is a wobble extension, different from a 'universal joint' type swivel. A wobble extension looks like this:
The taper at the transition between the socket attachment area and the shaft of the extension lets the socket wobble a bit and this is just enough to get the socket square on the bolt and let the extension be just a bit off center. Since I have a set of 'gear ratchet' box end wrenchs I would use one of those. The only caution is that the gear ratchets aren't strong enough for high torque use.
One type of gear wrench:
There is no reason you can't replace the standard bolts with Allen head screws I would suggest that you use washers because the shoulder of the Allen head is smaller than the shoulder of a bolt affecting clamping area. Since you will only be doing this job once (hopefully), consider using blue locktite if you go the Allen screw way. Any ball end hex wrench will allow offset access to the bolt head.
Has Iris painted her FJR white yet? Or replaced her FJR with a white bike?
Edit: Dang, ol' Fred is quick on the answers! And -- we pretty much agree!
Of course the job is much easier to do when the engine is in the RadioHowie position, like mine was too.
#48 escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Posted 23 April 2011 - 11:17 PM
Cutting a slot in the standard hex worked really slick!
--G
IBA 34365
'15 FJR
'12 Super Tenere
#49 yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 24 April 2011 - 04:21 AM
Another happy customer!!
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
#50 Blind Squirrel
I'm your huckleberry.
Posted 25 April 2011 - 05:07 AM
- Scott (Chesapeake Va.)
#51 yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 25 April 2011 - 05:21 AM
12Nm or 8.7 ft-lbs as per my manual.
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
#52 Blind Squirrel
I'm your huckleberry.
Posted 25 April 2011 - 05:29 AM
- Add the torque value for the cam chain cover
- Emphasize the value of having good tools vs crappy tools. See the comment about the pickle I got into over the weekend in this thread
- Scott (Chesapeake Va.)
#53 Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 25 April 2011 - 05:51 AM
More threads get pulled out (stripped) due to the use of torque wrenches than come loose due to not using them.
Just tighten them to good n' tite and call it a day. They just have to make an oil seal, no mechanical support.
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#54 yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 25 April 2011 - 06:07 AM
I'm a 'righty tighty' with my Allen key T-Handle kind of guy myself.
A good friend of mine (even though he rides KTM's) works over at the nuke plant calibrating torque wrenches. He tells me that the best you can hope for is about plus or minus 20% of the reading. For small fasteners if you are not willing to put out some fair dollars for a high quality inch-pound torque wrench and have the ability to keep it calibrated, you're wasting your time.
Having said that and having worked with wrenches all my adult life I have developed a calibrated wrist that 'clicks' and lets me know when things are 'tight enough'. If you're a newbie to all this and want to learn get an in-lb torque wrench.
But PLEASE if you buy a clicker type, back off the setting to zero before storing. My friend who calibrates these things for a living will thank you and so will the bolts on your bike.
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
#55 Blind Squirrel
I'm your huckleberry.
Posted 25 April 2011 - 06:28 AM
Sound advice.
- Scott (Chesapeake Va.)
#56 ZOOOMM
FJR Pilot
Posted 25 April 2011 - 04:17 PM
Hey Alan, no white bikes in the stable yet. We did do a fair amount of maintenance this winter though. New tapered bearings in the steering stems, replaced all of the stock bearings in the relay arms and swing arms, replaced the thermostats, new coolant, greased the drive shaft splines, greased the side stands and center stands. Then when we almost had them all back together, we started them up to let the new coolant flush thru and settle out when Iris heard that "noise". Iris indicated that's your tensioner. She remembers when hers was replaced at Herba's (and it made the same noise). I'm hoping that by this weekend we should be in good shape (if the parts come in). Say hi to Helen.
#57 escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Posted 25 April 2011 - 07:32 PM
IIRC, the bolts on the cam cover are a shoulder bolt. Adding to Fred's thoughts, once these bottom there's nothing left to torque. Snugged up is all that's necessary. Same goes for several (at least on GENII's) on the fairings.
--G
IBA 34365
'15 FJR
'12 Super Tenere
#58 FJR Flyer
DC Commuter Commando
Posted 18 December 2011 - 01:24 PM
I had four different 8 mm wrenches, including a box ratchet, but still had trouble with the bolt next to the frame. As I have a bunch of old SAE tools that were my uncles, I found that 5/16" ignition wrenches also fit the 8 mm bolt. Used at least four of those, too. Saved my butt and allowed me to remove that bolt.
Got the new CCT installed and was installing the adjustment access bolt, thinking i was home free. Didn't think it would be a problem until it rolled off my fingers and went into the frame recess. Of course I couldn't find my magnet on a stick. Ran down to the hardware store and got a new magnet on a stick. This one is a small diameter magnet on a telescoping rod. Retrieved the bolt, then realized I could hold the bolt with the magnet, insert it through the frame access hole and easily thread the bolt into the CCT. No slot cutting of the bolt required!
The biggest pain was cleaning the old gasket off the cam chain cover and the engine. Also, it was a bit tricky reinstalling the long pin that came off with the cover. Had to maneuver the plastic chain guide around until I could get the pin inserted.
Got it all back together and running and had enough time to change the oil and filter and clean up the bike a bit.
Chris P. IBA#37903
'06 FJR1300, '87 FJ1200, '76 DT250
#59 yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 18 December 2011 - 04:53 PM
I used tweezers to position the bolts so there was less chance of losing a bolt down into the access hole in the frame. That being said, the magnet will work just as well for the one bolt in question saving having to cut the slot in that bolt. I do not believe however that using a magnet to start the two CCT mounting bolts would work as well.
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
#60 yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 18 December 2011 - 04:56 PM
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Posted 18 December 2011 - 07:34 PM
2014A Root Beer
You don't go to Freddy Beach for the beach....
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can muffle the sound
#62 FJR Flyer
DC Commuter Commando
Posted 19 December 2011 - 04:30 AM
I read about the clutch cover after the fact, while looking for this thread.
I agree, the magnet will only work for the one bolt. I could get my fingers down the to start the mounting bolts. The mounting bolt threads are a little recessed, so you can at least get the bolt in the hole, while the adjustment hole bolts has the threads all the way to the end, so it was hard to get the bolt lined up and started. The magnet solved that problem.
I also put masking tape over the frame recess (another lesson learned the hard way) and poked the magnet thru it before positioning the bolt.
Thanks again. As usual, this forum provides all the info needed.
Chris P. IBA#37903
'06 FJR1300, '87 FJ1200, '76 DT250
#63 TomInPA
FJR Commander
Posted 19 December 2011 - 11:55 AM
With the clutch cover off, the lower bolt was not an issue, and it made removing the old CCT and installing the new one a breeze for my fat fingers. I used the Bluesman 8mm ratchet wrench with no problem or modifications. To install the access bolt on the end of the CCT I used some mother's clay compound in a 12mm shallow socket and stuck the bolt into that, then attached the socket to the end of a flexible shaft driver. It threadded right in. Overall the CCT is a breeze as long as the chain is secured with a couple sockets to keep out the slack. You're going to love the difference in the sound of the motor without the chain slap.
#64 Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 19 December 2011 - 02:50 PM
What I generally use in these kinds of circumstances, and did in this case too, is a long nosed, curved jaw
roach clippair of hemostats.Clip the "jaws" (lightly) up under the head of the bolt, so any thread buggery is in a non important area. Hold in place and "drive her home" (that's what she said).
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#65 Bustanut joker
FJR Commander
Posted 19 December 2011 - 05:37 PM
Oh wait I pissed meself.
Nevermind
*slinks out*
#66 Ratman
Training Pilot
Posted 14 May 2012 - 06:10 PM
Yep, I’m doing it myself. There was some thought of what if a butcher this job? But I went full steam ahead.
Started by removing the cowling? No problem came right off, still didn’t see the part I was looking for though, lifted the fuel tank, removed some rubber air dams and there it was? Next went to the chain cover where I seen the cable tie cinched up around the cam chain, with that done on the CCT.
It looks quite tight in there for my fat finger? Top bolt is right there, the bottom bolt wow! With the tools I had I gave it a try, wasn’t going to happen. Looks like a run to Sears. Having found the 8mm swivel that the other more accomplish folks already had. Boy now that I have this little guy I can knock this out in no time.Home with new swivel in hand, back to my job at hand.
The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?
Off back to the store and picked up a long magnet and one of those three finger grabbers. Back home I go. Worked on getting the socket out from inside the frame for another half hour, but out it come.
Now I have a long extension with my swivel stuck right on the end, I move it with all the dexterity of a surgeon. I got it! I got it! Pop off it comes. Feeling quite amazed that things were going so well.
Started at 9:00 and it’s only 11:30 and I have the thing out. Shoved the new one in from the bottom as instructed, gasket on, top bolt started with some lock tight on. Bottom bolt started with the new hack saw cut right down the middle and away we go!
All in all it was quite an easy job, even for a fat finger old guy setting at home recuperating from surgery.
It was made easy by the guys that posted here earlier, thanks. The pic where great and the cutting of the bolt head superb..
I feel much more relaxed riding with a new CCT installed by me.
GC
#67 Bugnatr
FJR Commander
Posted 14 May 2012 - 10:03 PM
You saved the big bucks AND had more tools than when you started. Win Win
04 Feejeer taken out by Bambi
13 KTM Supermoto990 08 Hondapotamas-Darkside 07 KLR650 The GoldWing of thumpers IBA # 20890
#68 timk
timk
Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:40 AM
"I came,I saw,I rode"
#69 yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 15 May 2012 - 02:32 PM
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
#70 NBB
FJR Pilot
Posted 16 May 2012 - 06:49 AM
2015 FJR1300A,
'06 FJR, '75 250 CZ, '82 Honda 110 Trail, '65 C105T(55cc Trail), 76 CB360, 56 Jawa 150.#71 velvet fog
FJR Pilot
Posted 02 December 2012 - 09:42 AM
Glad to see my bookmark still finds this thread after the "upgrade".
Has anyone tried replacing the bottom bolt with an allen head or torx head bolt?
#72 AuburnFJR
FJR Commander
Posted 02 December 2012 - 09:53 AM
Just take a Dremel and cut a slot in the bolt head so you can turn it with a screwdriver. Torx and Allen have the same issue that you can't get on them straight on.
get out and ride! IBA #54706
#73 dcarver
FJR Forum Post Whore
Posted 02 December 2012 - 11:56 AM
I use 1.5 wraps of electrical tape to keep things in place. Clean surfaces first, tape it up, all is good.
I wouldn't change a fucking thing; I've lived hard, played hard, and I ain't done yet. I've paid some severe penalties along the way, but the rewards have been so much greater; even if for just have participating in the game of life with utmost abandon. It's not who rides the furthest in a day, but rather in a lifetime. CBA member #1, IBA #31845 and very proud of both.
#74 FJRay
FJR Commander
Posted 02 December 2012 - 03:19 PM
There is more than one out there with lost sockets in the frame.
2-03 FJR1300 sold
03 GL1800 "The Prom Queen" sold
02 KLR 650 again. Sold
15 Spyder RT limited. Sold
06 GL1800 " White Whale "
04 FJR 1300
Sarcasm is just one more service we offer !!
The poster does not take any responsibility for any hurt or bad feelings. Reading threads poses inherent risks. This poster would like to remind readers to make sure they have a functional sense of humor before they visit any discussion board.
IBA#33731
#75 supertankerm60a3
FJR Pilot
Posted 02 December 2012 - 08:11 PM
I enlarged the frame hole. good bod or (most likely) indifferent. I drilled a 1/4" hole perpendicular to the forward, exit, side of the access hole then used the same drill bit with lateral force to cut off the sloppy flashing at the edge of it that was left over from either the casting or forging process. If the hole was cleanly made the flashing would not be there. If the flashing was not there then a 1/4" drive socket extension would fit with the angle needed to connect to the bolt that hides behind it.
I really don't see how removing 3 grams of material from the center of a beam could cause a problem in anything less stressed than an aircraft. If the FJ were all that tightly engineered the sloppy flashing would never had the sloppy flashing in the first place.
A bike will keep you young, the wrong bike will stop you from getting older. There is a difference.
#76 velvet fog
FJR Pilot
Posted 18 May 2013 - 12:36 PM
Just finished changing my CCT, about 3 hours including a trip to the tool store for a cheap screwdriver.
Couple of tips:
The hole in the CCT for the adjuster screw was too small for any of my screwdrivers to reach deep enough to turn the screw. I ended up buying a cheap one at Kent Tool and grinding the tip narrower.
On a gen 1, you don't need to remove the tank, lifting it is enough.
The new CCT wouldn't lock into the retracted position, I had to use the little locking tab that came with the new part. Removing it after installing the new CCT was not a problem.
The Kobalt racheting 8mm wrench I bought wouldn't fit the lower bolt because there isn't enough clearance around the bolt head for the wrench. My craftsman 8mm combo wrench worked just fine.
#77 floorman67
FNG
Posted 14 July 2013 - 03:02 PM
#78 Moosehead
FJR Pilot
Posted 08 August 2013 - 09:15 AM
I'D BE UNSTOPPABLE IF NOT FOR LAW ENFORCEMENT AND PHYSICS
#79 FJRMGM
FJRMGM
Posted 09 August 2013 - 06:58 AM
lots of good tips on how to git 'er done in this thread!!
I now live in motorcycling paradise - NW Arkansas!!
#80 Dan23
FJR Pilot
Posted 06 October 2013 - 12:01 PM
I just finished changing the CCT on my bike and the engine does sound quieter even if I never thought it noisy except for one brief incidence.
I didn't do the slotted bolt trick, but I think that's a good idea for those who prefer it. No two cats are skinned alike.
I considered enlarging the frame hole a bit, but didn't do that either. I bought a kit of Craftsman metric ignition wrenches for ~$22. I also cut a 1/4" drive 8mm socket shorter and it fit better. That way I could use a flexible drive and extension to run the pair of bolts in; final tightening with the ignition wrench and regular 8mm.
Another good tip previously mentioned is using plastic electrical tape to hold bolts to tools or in some cases slightly alter tools temporarily for certain jobs.
That's about it from me except to say thanks to everyone posting here.
continued...
SoCalFJR1300
FJR Commander
Posted 10 October 2013 - 12:01 AM
Just a FYI for the collective.
I have a 2008 and it does NOT have the "updated" Blue Dot CCT.......no blue anywhere.
2007 Suzuki Bandit1250, 2006 Triumph Sprint ST1050, 2004 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 2002 Kawasaki ZRX1200
1996 Kawasaki Vulcan750, 1985 Honda V65 1100 Sabre, 1986 Kawasaki Vulcan750, 1982 Suzuki GS750
1974 Suzuki GT380
#82 RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Posted 10 October 2013 - 06:33 AM
The OEM one may not, my '07 had the revised one and your '08 will have too. IIRC, the revision took place sometime in '07. I have bought three or four for changes on other bikes, one did not have the blue dot but was the revised one (part no. 5JW-12210-10-00 now 1MC-12210-00-00).
2014A Root Beer
You don't go to Freddy Beach for the beach....
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can muffle the sound
#83 SoCalFJR1300
FJR Commander
Posted 10 October 2013 - 08:28 AM
Ah...well that's good to know!
I was just going to change mine out at about 30,000 miles just to be safe...Thanks for the info.
2007 Suzuki Bandit1250, 2006 Triumph Sprint ST1050, 2004 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 2002 Kawasaki ZRX1200
1996 Kawasaki Vulcan750, 1985 Honda V65 1100 Sabre, 1986 Kawasaki Vulcan750, 1982 Suzuki GS750
1974 Suzuki GT380
#84 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 04 July 2014 - 05:14 PM
Well that came out easily, once I had cut a small wrench to a length that would clear the clutch cover, and ground my longest, thinnest scredriver down to a size that would back-off the tension.
Parts arriving tomorrow, let's hope it goes back together without fuss
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#85 Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
Posted 04 July 2014 - 11:26 PM
Twigg
Take the right side crank shaft cover off as well as the valve cover. Make sure the marks line up correctly - Visually - when you install the new tensioner.
This can cause major damage if you skip several teeth. Make the extra effort to get it right. It's not rocket science, just pay attention to detail, as I'm sure you are.
Good luck.
Brodie
Current bike '08 FJR AE - 65000 miles...
'06 FJR AE #2- 89382 miles, OOPS...'06 FJR AE #188744 miles, KILLED WAY TOO YOUNG !'90 Venture Royale - 149k,'82 Ascot Thumper - 128kI Be Darksiding --- Teaching Faith --- Grounding Harness, and Ignition Relay Harness by Ersatz Electric --- Patriot Guard Rider
'Lost Message of the Church'
#86 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 04 July 2014 - 11:36 PM
Thanks Brodie.
I removed the cover and zip-tied the chain guides before I moved the CCT.
Here are the "special" tools I had to make:
The screwdriver had to be ground to fit the CCT back-off screw, and that wrench will never be the same again
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#87 Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:01 AM
Hey, that wrench looks quite a bit like mine.
I used two wrenches, the cut one and another uncut box wrench. The cut one I heated and straightened the box relative to the handle, that way I could flip it and get a different position for really tight spaces. Also, between the 2 two wrenches, the 12 point broach are slightly out of phase from each other. Anything to get the needed wrench swing.
I figure hand tools are cheap compared to my time. If I have to heat the tip of a flat blade screw driver to redirect it, or cut a wrench, I'm all on it. I just make sure to replace it the next time I go to the store. Some of my handiest tools are the ones that I modified to make it work. I even have a stainless bicycle spoke that I cut and reshaped the end for extracting the pins in the Sumitomo connectors on the bike. I just used it again today.
Brodie
Current bike '08 FJR AE - 65000 miles...
'06 FJR AE #2- 89382 miles, OOPS...'06 FJR AE #188744 miles, KILLED WAY TOO YOUNG !'90 Venture Royale - 149k,'82 Ascot Thumper - 128kI Be Darksiding --- Teaching Faith --- Grounding Harness, and Ignition Relay Harness by Ersatz Electric --- Patriot Guard Rider
'Lost Message of the Church'
#88 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:12 AM
I felt like a vandal, cutting that wrench, but I decided that I wasn't damaging a tool, I was making one
It's good to be among engineers ... or at least guys with a few practical skills.
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#89 Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:27 AM
I'm not an engineer, just a Machinist. Though I've heard the difference between them is that a Machinist has to wash his hands beforegoing to the bathroom.
I do count it an honor to learn from the really smart people on this FJRForum. I try hard to give back to the community but I'm still at a deficit.
Brodie
Current bike '08 FJR AE - 65000 miles...
'06 FJR AE #2- 89382 miles, OOPS...'06 FJR AE #188744 miles, KILLED WAY TOO YOUNG !'90 Venture Royale - 149k,'82 Ascot Thumper - 128kI Be Darksiding --- Teaching Faith --- Grounding Harness, and Ignition Relay Harness by Ersatz Electric --- Patriot Guard Rider
'Lost Message of the Church'
#90 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 05 July 2014 - 02:30 AM
From my reading so far, I doubt this There seems to be everyone here ... from the guys who could rebuild an FJR engine with a nutcracker and a torque wrench ... in the dark, to those who have the dealer change their oil!
For my own part, many years ago I learned how to machine parts to tolerances of +or- 2/10 000 ths of an inch, which we referred to as a "gnat's cock" ... The real experts could get to half a gnat's.
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#91 Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
Posted 05 July 2014 - 02:43 AM
Try turning and holding +/- .001 on a 40 inch segmented turbine shroud with a 45 year old tubular micrometer and ww2 vintage standards (calibrated of course), in the winter time, on graveyard shift - no problem.
Brodie
;-)
Current bike '08 FJR AE - 65000 miles...
'06 FJR AE #2- 89382 miles, OOPS...'06 FJR AE #188744 miles, KILLED WAY TOO YOUNG !'90 Venture Royale - 149k,'82 Ascot Thumper - 128kI Be Darksiding --- Teaching Faith --- Grounding Harness, and Ignition Relay Harness by Ersatz Electric --- Patriot Guard Rider
'Lost Message of the Church'
#92 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 05 July 2014 - 02:58 AM
I couldn't do it any more. It's at least 30 years since I have used a lathe, milling machine or surface grinder.
My Dad could ... He worked in a toolroom that built and repaired injection moulding tools. They had to "fit" to those tolerances and if he had to lap the material down, that's what he did. I can see him now at his bench with a small hardwood stick and some diamond paste.
Production tolerances were wider ... usually +or- 0.002", but the tooling was so tightly made that the halves made a sucking sound, and a "pop" when you separated them.
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#93 Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 05 July 2014 - 03:32 AM
Back to the CCT bolts...
I have 4 different 8mm combination wrenches, two of the type with the fine ratcheting box end, one regular combination with 6 point box, and one with a 12 point box end, and between them all I can generally (changed a few of them now) find one that will break the factory tightened bolts loose.
Once loosened, I have a pack of tiny ignition wrenches (you know the ones that Sears throws into a tool set to up the "piece" count?) and found that one of the inch size box ends (forget which one exactly) is a "close enough" fit on the 8mm bolt heads to allow you to back out those bolts using that. I'd guess that a lot of you have that same packet of ignition wrenches buried in your tool boxes, so dig 'em out and give 'em a try. They may work for you (as they do for me)
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#94 timk
timk
Posted 05 July 2014 - 04:40 AM
Me too on the gnition wrenches.
"I came,I saw,I rode"
#95 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 05 July 2014 - 03:06 PM
Cam Chain Tensioner has arrived, and I thought it worth mentioning because ...
I ordered the upgraded part from the first post here. That would be the "Blue Spot" part, from Ron Ayres.
What arrived can be seen in the picture:
It appears that whatever you order, Ron Ayres is actually shipping the latest incarnation.
Now all I have to do is fit it and, btw, it will not stay retracted without the plastic locking tab ... just for information.
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#96 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 05 July 2014 - 04:41 PM
All buttoned up. Fiddly job more than difficult.
Cam chain is restored to silence.
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#97 Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
Posted 05 July 2014 - 06:14 PM
Good News !!!
Now go ride the wheels off that beast!
And don't forget to write.
Brodie
Current bike '08 FJR AE - 65000 miles...
'06 FJR AE #2- 89382 miles, OOPS...'06 FJR AE #188744 miles, KILLED WAY TOO YOUNG !'90 Venture Royale - 149k,'82 Ascot Thumper - 128kI Be Darksiding --- Teaching Faith --- Grounding Harness, and Ignition Relay Harness by Ersatz Electric --- Patriot Guard Rider
'Lost Message of the Church'
#98 Constant Mesh
FJR Commander
Posted 12 July 2014 - 12:59 PM
A suggestion for removing/installing the lower bolt. I haven't tried it but I believe it could work and offer some efficiency.
Once you break the bolt loose with a wrench slide/force a short bit of 5/16" ID vinyl or rubber tubing onto the bolt head and rotate the bolt out with the flexible tubing. I believe there's enough room to get the tubing into position and onto the bolt. The OD of the tubing would be too big to go through the hole in the frame (screwdriver portal) but I believe it could be brought in from below or possibly from inside routed below the CCT.
#99 hppants
FJR Commander
Posted 13 July 2014 - 02:19 PM
I have a question - The parts link that Yamafitter offers in the OP is no longer valid. Here's a screen shot from Parkshark.com from today (July 13, 2014). Is #6 and #7 what I need? The part numbers offered by Yamafitter do not match these. The replacement CCT from Yamaha is the way to go? Or do I need an aftermarket CCT? Thanks.
#100 TomInPA
FJR Commander
Posted 13 July 2014 - 03:28 PM
#6 and #7 are what you need. Most of us have used the updated OEM part with no problems, but Radiohowie for one used an aftermarket manual tensioner. I replaced my CCT on the 2005 several years ago. I think you will notice a significant difference in engine noise, especially during warmup.
yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
Posted 14 July 2014 - 04:09 AM
I just checked both on the Yamaha USA & Canada parts websites and there was a part number change for the chain tensioner with the introduction of the Gen III in 2013. They did not update the part numbers for any of the previous years models however. Based on what Twigg posted earlier it would appear that the new Gen III part is interchangable with earlier models but I just can't prove it through the parts listings. The Gen III chain tensioner is part # 1MC-12210-00-00 in case you were wondering.
Confucius say: "No matter where you go ..... there you are"
#102 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:06 AM
That's the part I got, but not the one I ordered. Seems that at least RonAyres is substituting.
Fitted the Gen 1 just fine.
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#103 ionbeam
2 FUN
Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:16 AM
Some replacement parts are considered to be 'backwards compatible' and will replace any older part in the field as well as being suitable for current use. No matter what P/N for the item you ordered you will receive the latest part. This also consolidates the number of parts that need to be manufactured and stocked. It's a good thing
#104 hppants
FJR Commander
Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:50 AM
I ordered a new CCT and gskt from Parkshark.com today. My next valve check comes up in about 2K, and that should be a good time to do this. Since I was ordering a couple other minor parts anyway, I went ahead and got everything for the valve check and CCT replacement too. Now I'll be ready to go without delay.
#105 hppants
FJR Commander
Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:07 AM
Update - all parts arrived as ordered. CCT has the desired "blue dot". A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush. I've printed and read this thread many times. It's time to take a deep breath and do it.
I would NEVER attempt this without this thread. Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.
#106 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:50 AM
That's odd ... I ordered the part with the part# for the blue dot, and I got the part with the green dot
Whatever, the change was straightforward, just a little fiddly is all.
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#107 wheatonFJR
...
Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:55 AM
Green dot?
Ruh Roh!
That goes to one of the French detuned FJRs. Your FJR will now top out at 100mph...max.
Better go back in with the Blue Dot.
#108 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 15 August 2014 - 05:09 AM
Not true ... The French model tops 175 mph if you add a little garlic to the gas
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#109 mcatrophy
Privaliged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Posted 15 August 2014 - 06:15 AM
Errmmm ....
mcatrophy
2018 FJR1300AS - YCC-S Rules!
2014 FJR1300AS 2010 FJR1300AS 2006 FJR1300AS '02 Trophy 1200 '01 Bonneville '55 Tiger Cub
Some FJRForum contributions.
My web site
#110 Mr. BR
FJR Pilot
Posted 18 August 2014 - 08:54 PM
Mine is sort of a greenish blue dot... installation coming one of these weekends.
Mr. BR
#111 hppants
FJR Commander
Posted 19 August 2014 - 05:27 AM
Just to correct my previous post #105, when I unpackaged the CCT, in fact, the dot is green. I confirmed it as the correct part number and it's going to get installed on my bike.
#112 ULEWZ
FJR Pilot
Posted 19 August 2014 - 11:37 AM
Time for a dumb question. I adjust valves on my dirtbikes all the time, requiring retracting the CCT, so that is why I ask the following:
Why do we need to tywrap the cam chain to perform the CCT replacement?
Is there that much slack in the chain that it will spin and skip a tooth on the cams?
I would think the weight of the chain would keep it in place on the teeth.
Does the insertion of the CCT cause the chain to move enough to skip a tooth?
It takes a lot of work on my dirtbikes to move the chain one tooth.
Is the lower gear the issue?
Sorry again for the dumb question, just asking.
I read on another forum about using a No. 8 socket and a slotted screwdriver inserted into the socket, then a vice grip on the screwdriver, to break the lower bolt free. Sounds promising.
Cee Bailey Windscreen, autoretract deactivated, PCV, Recall ECU, Recall grounds, Recall key ignition, Frame sliders. Highway pegs in frame sliders, Penske 8983, Race Tech Gold valves, Sonic springs, Sargeant seat, Rear trunk, Trooper Exhaust mod, Shorter Jester racing bog bones (removed), Progrip 714 grips, Throttle Rocker, Vario adjustable foot pegs, Ram mount for GPS, Garauld highway peg mounts with Rivco pegs , All balls steering stem bearings, Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control, Delkevic hex pipes, Baldwin leather seats, EBC HH padsSold!#113 Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
Posted 19 August 2014 - 01:41 PM
There is a chance the cam chain will skip a tooth, yes.
Why risk it for the sake of a tie-wrap that fits very easily around the chain guides.
1 SaddleSore 1000,1 BBG,12 LD Rallies Placings 1st, 2nd, 3rd x 2, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 20th, and 2 x DNF
#114 ionbeam
2 FUN
Posted 19 August 2014 - 01:56 PM
If you are changing the CCT with the valve cover in place there is a chain guide in the valve cover (Item 5) that should prevent the chain from skipping a tooth on the cams. But, there is enough slack that you can skip a tooth on the crank sprocket. One tooth on the crank sprocket is way more significant than a tooth on a cam gear sprocket. You may get away with one tooth on the crank, but two teeth, well, you don't want to go there.
Item 5:
#115 hppants
FJR Commander
Posted 24 August 2014 - 02:31 PM
Finished mine yesterday. Few observations, although nothing really earth-shattering:
1. Being paranoid about the cam chain moving on me, I placed a zip tie around each chain guide under the cover. Since I was checking valves at the same time, and had the cam cover off, I also zip tied the chain to each cam gear. That baby didn't move. Looking back, if someone is planning to do this at the same time as a valve check, it may not be necessary to remove the timing cover. Start with the center plug to reveal the crank bolt. Then check your valves. If none need adjustment, then you can just zip-tie the chain to the cam gears for the CCT replacement and leave the timing cover on.
2. The "cut a slot in the bolts so you can use a long screw driver to start them" idea is ingenious. Once snug, I was able to use a wrench to tighten them up.
3. To keep the CCT paper gskt from moving around, I put just a spec of high-temp RTV on two spots. One less thing to worry about.
4. I also put a spec of RTV on the retraction access bolt washer to keep it from flopping off while I was moving it into position.
5. I was sure that if I didn't cover the frame hole on the inside, something was going to fall in there. So I covered the hole with some painter's tape (the blue tape). When re-assembly time came around, I just used my screwdriver that I was snugging bolts up with to poke a hole in my painter's tape, giving me the best of both worlds.
6. The "how-do" says to exercise the new CCT back and forth a couple turns so that you can feel it against the cam chain. I did that and was successful. However, when finished with that exercise, I noticed that the chain was not very tight. The how-do then says to rotate the engine and this was very helpful. In just 2 rotations, the new CCT tightened up the chain very well - and it was much tighter than the original CCT.
The result of this is a much quieter start (especially a cold start). I now know that my original CCT was MUCH weaker than the replacement part. I'm sure part of that is because the upgraded part is a stiffer spring. But how much of that is my original CCT spring fixing to crap the bucket and grenade my motor? I'll never know, but I feel much better now.
#116 Mr. BR
FJR Pilot
Posted 30 August 2014 - 08:55 PM
First, thanks to the OP for the tips on CCT swap. I just did mine tonight on my ’05 and it was no big deal at all. I had the old CCT removed in 1 hr but it was another 2 before I got everything buttoned up. I also used a shortened 8mm wrench for the bottom bolt which clears the clutch cover… worked great. I did cut a slot in both CCT bolts and the top one went in easily but for the bottom, I used a rubber hose to push against the bolt while rotating it and got it threaded in no time at all. My new CCT also would not stay in the retracted position so I left the little “key” in place during installation. I spent 20 min fooling around with the screw at the end of the CCT before I read the OP’s tips and then got it installed quickly using long tweezers and a screwdriver. And yes, the new CCT is clearly stronger than the old unit.
Here’s a few pictures….
Regards,
Brendan
#117 Canadian FJR
FJR Commander
Posted 27 January 2015 - 12:43 PM
Thanks,
Canadian FJR
#118 Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 27 January 2015 - 12:51 PM
There's already a poll thread on that topic running somewhere on here
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#119 DezzertRider
FJR Pilot
Posted 25 November 2015 - 01:21 AM
I'm in the process of doing my first valve check/adjustment. I decided while I have everything apart, I may as well replace the CCT. The idea of using small ignition type of wrenches is what got me over the hump. I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt. I was able to get the bottom bolt out in about 10 minutes. Thanks for the excellent write up! You can never have too many tools!
"I don't want a pickle, I just want to ride on my motor-sikle" - The Motorcycle song by Arlo Guthrie
2004 FJR Superior Gen-I
2006 Triumph Bonneville T100
#120 RossKean
FJR Commander
Posted 25 November 2015 - 04:37 AM
Maybe 5/16"??
...continued...
rehabgen1
Training Pilot
Posted 03 December 2015 - 10:20 PM
#122 DezzertRider
FJR Pilot
Posted 13 December 2015 - 05:17 PM
Thanks for the correction, yes it was 5/16"
"I don't want a pickle, I just want to ride on my motor-sikle" - The Motorcycle song by Arlo Guthrie
2004 FJR Superior Gen-I
2006 Triumph Bonneville T100
#123 donaldb
FJR Commander
Posted 29 February 2016 - 12:32 PM
Thanks again FJRForum. I know I don't visit often like I used to. Yes, I still have my 04 FJR, pulling a trailer with it now and picking up stickers along the way of my travel conquests. Have seen most of USA from that stock saddle. Hope to continue seeing more in the years to come. My cam chain started rattling and clattering a few weeks ago, so I came back here for research on the subject. I knew if it was anywhere to be found this would be the place. Followed the directions and replaced the CCT last Friday and things could not have gone smoother. The old FJR is humming like a sewing machine again. Can't believe the difference the new CCT made. Anyway, hope to see you guys on the road sometime.
Working on a trip up the Blue Ridge Pkwy, and parallel the Appalachian along back roads to the end marker in northern Maine. Trip tentatively set for October. Hope to ride a little in Vermont and New Hampshire along the way. With the new CCT I think the trip is possible now. Not sure what I would have done without my trusted 04. Best Regards, Bruce
I live in my own little world....but that's ok, they all know me here!
#124 gdt3
FNG
Posted 27 March 2017 - 04:02 PM
I just bought my 2005 FJR and took it apart enough to see the CCT. I looked for a blue dot but couldn't see one. I can't see one in the pictures posted here either. My bike has 65,000 km (40,000 mi) on it. What is the opinion of whether this needs changing or not? Please.
Thanks,
Don
#125 RossKean
FJR Commander
Posted 27 March 2017 - 04:17 PM
No questions, debate or anything else. Simply not worth the risk.
Chances are, you will have some warning before it fails (maybe). Listen for rattling (can of marbles) on the right side; especially when engine is cold.
#126 Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 27 March 2017 - 04:32 PM
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#127 wetwolf
FJR Pilot
Posted 27 March 2017 - 07:21 PM
Did the 1st valve check since I have owned the bike. (50K, bought it at 48K) GEN1 always been rattlin a little on the right side. Once you get far enough into the bike, the CCT is a cakewalk.
Mind you, I haven't actualy had the CCT out of the engine yet, but i managed to change 4 shims on the intake side without fukin up the timing. Once the CCT gets here, it will be a tite squeeze to put it in, but this friggin bike is about as tightly packed as a honda jetski. Learn what you need to take off to get the job done. The 1st time you will always take off more stuff than you need to.
Riding since 73, Wrenching since 74
99 Bandit 1200, the hooligan bike
05 FJR, nice on the hiway, working to make it a little more hooligan though!
Jet ski stuff www.wetwolf.com
#128 Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 28 March 2017 - 04:46 AM
Yeah, the main interference for CCT removal and replacement is the darned frame itself. But you definitely also want to take the timing cover off to secure the chain, which means removal of the right lower faring panel. Otherwise it's just an exercise in testing your manual dexterity.
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#129 marktitley
FNG
Posted 28 June 2017 - 08:03 AM
So, I am intalling my new tensioner this evening, took me 2 days to get the lower bolt loose, Ugh. My question is, after I install and tighten it up i know to release the pin. You mentioned manually turning the engine.... How do I do this without starting the bike? Please be detailed since this is my first time
So, I am intalling my new tensioner this evening, took me 2 days to get the lower bolt loose, Ugh. My question is, after I install and tighten it up i know to release the pin. You mentioned manually turning the engine.... How do I do this without starting the bike? Please be detailed since this is my first time
#130 RossKean
FJR Commander
Posted 28 June 2017 - 08:24 AM
#131 08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
Posted 28 June 2017 - 06:13 PM
If on the center stand in gear wouldn't the engine spin? I believe so and that may be the easiest. Then again I haven't done the job yet. Been rattling for over a year now. I try not to rev the engine since that's when I hear it most.
Dave
Without Rain nothing Grows, Learn to embrace the storms of your life.
WynPro Custom MC Products, 2015 FJR1300A | 2008 FJR1300A | 2005 Honda XR650L | 2001 Honda Rubicon 4x4
#132 RossKean
FJR Commander
Posted 28 June 2017 - 06:41 PM
Although you can turn the engine over in a controlled non-powered fashion using the rear wheel in 5th gear, its pretty easy to do it with a socket wrench on the crank. You should have the timing cover off to secure the chain anyway.
#133 PhilJet09
Nondescript FJR Hierarchy Displayed
Posted 28 June 2017 - 06:47 PM
#134 twistedcricket
You have whiskey?
Posted 07 August 2017 - 06:25 PM
-- RadioHowie
IBA # 38626
#135 Fred W
1 Wheel Drive
Posted 08 August 2017 - 04:19 AM
If you took the proper precautions and never allowed the chain to slacken during the CCT replacement, then there is very little chance it jumped a tooth on any of the sprockets.
To view my "broken" Photobucket images: Firefox fix Chrome fix
#136 rbentnail
Economic Plankton
Posted 08 August 2017 - 10:00 AM
IMHO if you have any doubt whatsoever, ANY DOUBT, then consider doing it the only reliable, 100% fool-proof way instead of half-assing it and even remotely risking damaging anything. Remove the side cover, remove the valve cover, check the 3 timing marks. It's the only way to be absolutely sure you haven't screwed it up. Man, if I had a 5-spot for every person that said something like, "I really don't think it skipped [a tooth] during the change" or during a valve shim replacement only to find out that it had I think I'd be a gaziilionaire!
Russ- Darksider #64
#137 twistedcricket
You have whiskey?
Posted 08 August 2017 - 10:11 AM
I had the ty-wrap/ziptie as tight as I could get it by hand. I did not remove it until I had all three bolts tight on the tensioner. I was turning the wheel, against the compression, but I did not hear any metal clanking. I may remove spark plugs, because I should inspect them anyway, and make it easier to turn and detect resistance.
I will look in my service manual for details. Thanks!
-- RadioHowie
IBA # 38626
#138 rtesta65
FNG
Posted 24 February 2018 - 07:42 PM
Changed mine today. Thanks so much for this write up.
My 2 cents -
Mine is an '08 and the spring tension in the old tensioner was weaker than the new green dot one. I haven't started it up yet because I'm changing the plugs tomorrow.
2008 FJR1300A
1994 BMW K1100LT1994 Shadow VLX#139 Bustanut joker
FJR Commander
Posted 25 February 2018 - 09:35 AM
#140 mech 1 twa
FJR Pilot
Posted 25 February 2018 - 06:26 PM
Only turn it clockwise. Other way it will jump chain. 14 mm bolt on crank.