I remembered paying more than that, so had to look it up again. Looks like different part number for Gen 1. For Gen2 it's 5JW-15456-11-00 for $6.75. One would think they'd be the same.

Dumb question but what indicates a need to change the cct? Is this just a gen 1 item at low mileage or is this nessassary on all model years? Is there an upgraded model that lasts longer?

Has anyone considered using allen socket head bolts in lieu of the stock hex head bolts with the ground-in slot? I have to tackle this project later this week and I thought I would pick up the socket head bolts to try.

Based on my CCT change this week, using an allen head on the upper bolt will work, lower bolt next to the frame...not so much. I don't think you can get the angle necessary even with a wobble extension and ball end allen. The only other way is with a very short allen wrench on both sides, and even then you're not going to get the necessary swing. 

Cutting a slot in the standard hex worked really slick!

--G

Does anyone have the torque value for the bolts on the cam chain cover?

Unless you have a really good inch-pounds torque wrench, I would be hesitant to torque those cover bolts. 

More threads get pulled out (stripped) due to the use of torque wrenches than come loose due to not using them. 

Just tighten them to good n' tite and call it a day. They just have to make an oil seal, no mechanical support.

Unless you have a really good inch-pounds torque wrench, I would be hesitant to torque those cover bolts. 

More threads get pulled out (stripped) due to the use of torque wrenches than come loose due to not using them. 

Just tighten them to good n' tite and call it a day. They just have to make an oil seal, no mechanical support.

Hi Jim!

Has Iris painted her FJR white yet? [color="#c0c0c0"]Or replaced her FJR with a white bike?

Unless you have a really good inch-pounds torque wrench, I would be hesitant to torque those cover bolts. 

More threads get pulled out (stripped) due to the use of torque wrenches than come loose due to not using them. 

Just tighten them to good n' tite and call it a day. They just have to make an oil seal, no mechanical support.

I finally got a garage pass and had free time today to change out the CCT...

I read in a different thread that someone took off the clutch cover and had more room to swing the 8mm wrench when attempting to remove the bolt closest to the frame. If someone shows up in the Spring for Tech Day IV looking for a CCT change we will find out if this is true.

I used tweezers to position the bolts so there was less chance of losing a bolt down into the access hole in the frame. That being said, the magnet will work just as well for the one bolt in question saving having to cut the slot in that bolt. I do not believe however that using a magnet to start the two CCT mounting bolts would work as well.

I finally got a garage pass and had free time today to change out the CCT. I've had the new blue dot unit and these instructions printed out and sitting on the workbench for months. This post was invaluable. I did a couple things different and found a few work arounds.

I had four different 8 mm wrenches, including a box ratchet, but still had trouble with the bolt next to the frame. As I have a bunch of old SAE tools that were my uncles, I found that 5/16" ignition wrenches also fit the 8 mm bolt. Used at least four of those, too. Saved my butt and allowed me to remove that bolt. 

Got the new CCT installed and was installing the adjustment access bolt, thinking i was home free. Didn't think it would be a problem until it rolled off my fingers and went into the frame recess. Of course I couldn't find my magnet on a stick. Ran down to the hardware store and got a new magnet on a stick. This one is a small diameter magnet on a telescoping rod. Retrieved the bolt, then realized I could hold the bolt with the magnet, insert it through the frame access hole and easily thread the bolt into the CCT. No slot cutting of the bolt required!

The biggest pain was cleaning the old gasket off the cam chain cover and the engine. Also, it was a bit tricky reinstalling the long pin that came off with the cover. Had to maneuver the plastic chain guide around until I could get the pin inserted.

Got it all back together and running and had enough time to change the oil and filter and clean up the bike a bit.

Monday: decided I needed to put my asked at CCT in, looked at all the pages. Asked my dealer what his cost would be, 4.5 hours at $110.00 / hr.
Yep, I’m doing it myself. There was some thought of what if a butcher this job? But I went full steam ahead.

Started by removing the cowling? No problem came right off, still didn’t see the part I was looking for though, lifted the fuel tank, removed some rubber air dams and there it was? Next went to the chain cover where I seen the cable tie cinched up around the cam chain, with that done on the CCT.
It looks quite tight in there for my fat finger? Top bolt is right there, the bottom bolt wow! With the tools I had I gave it a try, wasn’t going to happen. Looks like a run to Sears. Having found the 8mm swivel that the other more accomplish folks already had. Boy now that I have this little guy I can knock this out in no time.Home with new swivel in hand, back to my job at hand.

The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?

Off back to the store and picked up a long magnet and one of those three finger grabbers. Back home I go. Worked on getting the socket out from inside the frame for another half hour, but out it come.
Now I have a long extension with my swivel stuck right on the end, I move it with all the dexterity of a surgeon. I got it! I got it! Pop off it comes. Feeling quite amazed that things were going so well.

Started at 9:00 and it’s only 11:30 and I have the thing out. Shoved the new one in from the bottom as instructed, gasket on, top bolt started with some lock tight on. Bottom bolt started with the new hack saw cut right down the middle and away we go!

All in all it was quite an easy job, even for a fat finger old guy setting at home recuperating from surgery. 
It was made easy by the guys that posted here earlier, thanks. The pic where great and the cutting of the bolt head superb..

I feel much more relaxed riding with a new CCT installed by me.
GC

One more question, has anyone dared to enlarge the access hole so a 8mm socket would go right to the bolt? I know it sounds scary messing with a frame.

Glad to see my bookmark still finds this thread after the "upgrade".

Has anyone tried replacing the bottom bolt with an allen head or torx head bolt?  

Glad to see my bookmark still finds this thread after the "upgrade".
 
Has anyone tried replacing the bottom bolt with an allen head or torx head bolt?  

The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?

I use 1.5 wraps of electrical tape to keep things in place. Clean surfaces first, tape it up, all is good.

There is more than one out there with lost sockets in the frame.

I enlarged the frame hole.  good bod or (most likely) indifferent.  I drilled a 1/4" hole perpendicular to the forward, exit, side of the access hole then used  the same drill bit with lateral force to cut off the sloppy flashing at the edge of it that was left over from either the casting or forging process.  If the hole was cleanly made the flashing would not be there.  If the flashing was not there then a 1/4" drive socket extension would fit with the angle needed to connect to the bolt that hides behind it.

I really don't see how removing 3 grams of material from the center of a beam could cause a problem in anything less stressed than an aircraft.  If the FJ were all that tightly engineered the sloppy flashing would never had the sloppy flashing in the first place.

Just finished changing my CCT, about 3 hours including a trip to the tool store for a cheap screwdriver.

Couple of tips:

The hole in the CCT  for the adjuster screw was too small for any of my screwdrivers to reach deep enough to turn the screw.  I ended up buying a cheap one at Kent Tool and grinding the tip narrower.

On a gen 1, you don't need to remove the tank, lifting it is enough.

The new CCT wouldn't lock into the retracted position, I had to use the little locking tab that came with the new part.  Removing it after installing the new CCT was not a problem.

The Kobalt racheting 8mm wrench I bought wouldn't fit the lower bolt because there isn't enough clearance around the bolt head for the wrench.  My craftsman 8mm combo wrench worked just fine.

lots of good tips on how to git 'er done in this thread!!

I just finished changing the CCT on my bike and the engine does sound quieter even if I never thought it noisy except for one brief incidence.

I didn't do the slotted bolt trick, but I think that's a good idea for those who prefer it. No two cats are skinned alike.

I considered enlarging the frame hole a bit, but didn't do that either. I bought a kit of Craftsman metric ignition wrenches for ~$22. I also cut a 1/4" drive 8mm socket shorter and it fit better. That way I could use a flexible drive and extension to run the pair of bolts in; final tightening with the ignition wrench and regular 8mm.

Another good tip previously mentioned is using plastic electrical tape to hold bolts to tools or in some cases slightly alter tools temporarily for certain jobs.

That's about it from me except to say thanks to everyone posting here.

Just a FYI for the collective.

I have a 2008 and it does NOT have the "updated" Blue Dot CCT.......no blue anywhere.

Just a FYI for the collective.

 

I have a 2008 and it does NOT have the "updated" Blue Dot CCT.......no blue anywhere.

The OEM one may not, my '07 had the revised one and your '08 will have too.  IIRC, the revision took place sometime in '07.  I have bought three or four for changes on other bikes, one did not have the blue dot but was the revised one (part no. 5JW-12210-10-00 now 1MC-12210-00-00).

Just a FYI for the collective.

 

I have a 2008 and it does NOT have the "updated" Blue Dot CCT.......no blue anywhere.

The OEM one may not, my '07 had the revised one and your '08 will have too.  IIRC, the revision took place sometime in '07.  I have bought three or four for changes on other bikes, one did not have the blue dot but was the revised one (part no. 5JW-12210-10-00 now 1MC-12210-00-00).

Ah...well that's good to know!

I was just going to change mine out at about 30,000 miles just to be safe...Thanks for the info.

Well that came out easily, once I had cut a small wrench to a length that would clear the clutch cover, and ground my longest, thinnest scredriver down to a size that would back-off the tension.

Parts arriving tomorrow, let's hope it goes back together without fuss 

Twigg

Take the right side crank shaft cover off as well as the valve cover. Make sure the marks line up correctly - Visually - when you install the new tensioner. 

This can cause major damage if you skip several teeth. Make the extra effort to get it right. It's not rocket science, just pay attention to detail, as I'm sure you are.

Good luck.

Brodie

Thanks Brodie.

I removed the cover and zip-tied the chain guides before I moved the CCT.

Here are the "special" tools I had to make:

The screwdriver had to be ground to fit the CCT back-off screw, and that wrench will never be the same again

Hey, that wrench looks quite a bit like mine.

I used two wrenches, the cut one and another uncut box wrench. The cut one I heated and straightened the box relative to the handle, that way I could flip it and get a different position for really tight spaces. Also, between the 2 two wrenches, the 12 point broach are slightly out of phase from each other. Anything to get the needed wrench swing.

I figure hand tools are cheap compared to my time. If I have to heat the tip of a flat blade screw driver to redirect it, or cut a wrench, I'm all on it. I just make sure to replace it the next time I go to the store. Some of my handiest tools are the ones that I modified to make it work. I even have a stainless bicycle spoke that I cut and reshaped the end for extracting the pins in the Sumitomo  connectors on the bike. I just used it again today.

Brodie

I felt like a vandal, cutting that wrench, but I decided that I wasn't damaging a tool, I was making one 

It's good to be among engineers ... or at least guys with a few practical skills.

I'm not an engineer, just a Machinist. Though I've heard the difference between them is that a Machinist has to wash his hands beforegoing to the bathroom.

I do count it an honor to learn from the really smart people on this FJRForum. I try hard to give back to the community but I'm still at a deficit.

Brodie

 I try hard to give back to the community but I'm still at a deficit.

 

 

Brodie

From my reading so far, I doubt this  There seems to be everyone here ... from the guys who could rebuild an FJR engine with a nutcracker and a torque wrench ... in the dark, to those who have the dealer change their oil!

For my own part, many years ago I learned how to machine parts to tolerances of +or-  2/10 000 ths of an inch, which we referred to as a "gnat's cock" ... The real experts could get to half a gnat's.

+/-.0002, yup that's close. You learn to factor in ambient temprature in your measurement.

Try turning and holding +/- .001 on a 40 inch segmented turbine shroud with a 45 year old tubular micrometer and ww2 vintage standards (calibrated of course), in the winter time, on graveyard shift - no problem.


Brodie
;-)

I couldn't do it any more. It's at least 30 years since I have used a lathe, milling machine or surface grinder.

My Dad could ... He worked in a toolroom that built and repaired injection moulding tools. They had to "fit" to those tolerances and if he had to lap the material down, that's what he did. I can see him now at his bench with a small hardwood stick and some diamond paste.

Production tolerances were wider ... usually +or- 0.002", but the tooling was so tightly made that the halves made a sucking sound, and a "pop" when you separated them.

Back to the CCT bolts...

I have 4 different 8mm combination wrenches, two of the type with the fine ratcheting box end, one regular combination with 6 point box, and one with a 12 point box end, and between them all I can generally (changed a few of them now) find one that will break the factory tightened bolts loose. 

Once loosened, I have a pack of tiny ignition wrenches (you know the ones that Sears throws into a tool set to up the "piece" count?) and found that one of the inch size box ends (forget which one exactly) is a "close enough" fit on the 8mm bolt heads to allow you to back out those bolts using that.  I'd guess that a lot of you have that same packet of ignition wrenches buried in your tool boxes, so dig 'em out and give 'em a try.  They may work for you (as they do for me)

Back to the CCT bolts...

 

I have 4 different 8mm combination wrenches, two of the type with the fine ratcheting box end, one regular combination with 6 point box, and one with a 12 point box end, and between them all I can generally (changed a few of them now) find one that will break the factory tightened bolts loose. 

 

Once loosened, I have a pack of tiny ignition wrenches (you know the ones that Sears throws into a tool set to up the "piece" count?) and found that one of the inch size box ends (forget which one exactly) is a "close enough" fit on the 8mm bolt heads to allow you to back out those bolts using that.  I'd guess that a lot of you have that same packet of ignition wrenches buried in your tool boxes, so dig 'em out and give 'em a try.  They may work for you (as they do for me)

Me too on the gnition wrenches.

Cam Chain Tensioner has arrived, and I thought it worth mentioning because ...

I ordered the upgraded part from the first post here. That would be the "Blue Spot" part, from Ron Ayres.

What arrived can be seen in the picture:

It appears that whatever you order, Ron Ayres is actually shipping the latest incarnation.

Now all I have to do is fit it and, btw, it will not stay retracted without the plastic locking tab ... just for information.

All buttoned up. Fiddly job more than difficult.

Cam chain is restored to silence.

Good News !!!

Now go ride the wheels off that beast!

And don't forget to write.

Brodie

A suggestion for removing/installing the lower bolt.  I haven't tried it but I believe it could work and offer some efficiency.

Once you break the bolt loose with a wrench slide/force a short bit of 5/16" ID vinyl or rubber tubing onto the bolt head and rotate the bolt out with the flexible tubing.  I believe there's enough room to get the tubing into position and onto the bolt.  The OD of the tubing would be too big to go through the hole in the frame (screwdriver portal) but I believe it could be brought in from below or possibly from inside routed below the CCT.

I have a question - The parts link that Yamafitter offers in the OP is no longer valid.  Here's a screen shot from Parkshark.com from today (July 13, 2014).  Is #6 and #7 what I need?  The part numbers offered by Yamafitter do not match these.  The replacement CCT from Yamaha is the way to go?  Or do I need an aftermarket CCT?  Thanks.

#6 and #7 are what you need.  Most of us have used the updated OEM part with no problems, but Radiohowie for one used an aftermarket manual tensioner.   I replaced my CCT on the 2005 several years ago.  I think you will notice a significant difference in engine noise, especially during warmup.

I just checked both on the Yamaha USA & Canada parts websites and there was a part number change for the chain tensioner with the introduction of the Gen III in 2013. They did not update the part numbers for any of the previous years models however. Based on what Twigg posted earlier it would appear that the new Gen III part is interchangable with earlier models but I just can't prove it through the parts listings. The Gen III chain tensioner is part # 1MC-12210-00-00 in case you were wondering.

That's the part I got, but not the one I ordered. Seems that at least RonAyres is substituting.

Fitted the Gen 1 just fine.

That's the part I got, but not the one I ordered. Seems that at least RonAyres is substituting.

Some replacement parts are considered to be 'backwards compatible' and will replace any older part in the field as well as being suitable for current use.  No matter what P/N for the item you ordered you will receive the latest part.  This also consolidates the number of parts that need to be manufactured and stocked.  It's a good thing 

I ordered a new CCT and gskt from Parkshark.com today.  My next valve check comes up in about 2K, and that should be a good time to do this.  Since I was ordering a couple other minor parts anyway, I went ahead and got everything for the valve check and CCT replacement too.  Now I'll be ready to go without delay.

Update - all parts arrived as ordered.  CCT has the desired "blue dot".  A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush.  I've printed and read this thread many times.  It's time to take a deep breath and do it.

I would NEVER attempt this without this thread.  Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.

Update - all parts arrived as ordered.  CCT has the desired "blue dot".  A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush.  I've printed and read this thread many times.  It's time to take a deep breath and do it.

 

I would NEVER attempt this without this thread.  Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.

That's odd ... I ordered the part with the part# for the blue dot, and I got the part with the green dot 

Whatever, the change was straightforward, just a little fiddly is all.

Update - all parts arrived as ordered.  CCT has the desired "blue dot".  A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush.  I've printed and read this thread many times.  It's time to take a deep breath and do it.
 
I would NEVER attempt this without this thread.  Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.

 
That's odd ... I ordered the part with the part# for the blue dot, and I got the part with the green dot 
 
Whatever, the change was straightforward, just a little fiddly is all.
 

 

Update - all parts arrived as ordered.  CCT has the desired "blue dot".  A buddy is coming over Sunday to assist with a valve check and CCT replacement (along with a new set of spark plugs, coolant flush, and a brake/clutch flush.  I've printed and read this thread many times.  It's time to take a deep breath and do it.
 
I would NEVER attempt this without this thread.  Huge kudos to our friends for taking the time to help us.

 
That's odd ... I ordered the part with the part# for the blue dot, and I got the part with the green dot 
 
Whatever, the change was straightforward, just a little fiddly is all.
 

 

Green dot?

Ruh Roh!


That goes to one of the French detuned FJRs. Your FJR will now top out at 100mph...max.


Better go back in with the Blue Dot.

Not true ... The French model tops 175 mph if you add a little garlic to the gas 

...
That goes to one of the French detuned FJRs. Your FJR will now top out at 100mph...max.
...

Errmmm ....

Mine is sort of a greenish blue dot... installation coming one of these weekends.

Mr. BR

Just to correct my previous post #105, when I unpackaged the CCT, in fact, the dot is green.  I confirmed it as the correct part number and it's going to get installed on my bike.

Time for a dumb question. I adjust valves on my dirtbikes all the time, requiring retracting the CCT, so that is why I ask the following:

Why do we need to tywrap the cam chain to perform the CCT replacement?

Is there that much slack in the chain that it will spin and skip a tooth on the cams?

I would think the weight of the chain would keep it in place on the teeth.

Does the insertion of the CCT cause the chain to move enough to skip a tooth?

It takes a lot of work on my dirtbikes to move the chain one tooth.

Is the lower gear the issue?

Sorry again for the dumb question, just asking.

I read on another forum about using a No. 8 socket and a slotted screwdriver inserted into the socket, then a vice grip on the screwdriver, to break the lower bolt free. Sounds promising.

Time for a dumb question. I adjust valves on my dirtbikes all the time, requiring retracting the CCT, so that is why I ask the following:

Why do we need to tywrap the cam chain to perform the CCT replacement?

Is there that much slack in the chain that it will spin and skip a tooth on the cams?

I would think the weight of the chain would keep it in place on the teeth.

Does the insertion of the CCT cause the chain to move enough to skip a tooth?

It takes a lot of work on my dirtbikes to move the chain one tooth.

Is the lower gear the issue?

Sorry again for the dumb question, just asking.

I read on another forum about using a No. 8 socket and a slotted screwdriver inserted into the socket, then a vice grip on the screwdriver, to break the lower bolt free. Sounds promising.

There is a chance the cam chain will skip a tooth, yes.

Why risk it for the sake of a tie-wrap that fits very easily around the chain guides.

...Why do we need to tywrap the cam chain to perform the CCT replacement?

Is there that much slack in the chain that it will spin and skip a tooth on the cams?

I would think the weight of the chain would keep it in place on the teeth....

 

There is a chance the cam chain will skip a tooth, yes.

 

Why risk it for the sake of a tie-wrap that fits very easily around the chain guides.

If you are changing the CCT with the valve cover in place there is a chain guide in the valve cover (Item 5) that should prevent the chain from skipping a tooth on the cams.  But, there is enough slack that you can skip a tooth on the crank sprocket.  One tooth on the crank sprocket is way more significant than a tooth on a cam gear sprocket.  You may get away with one tooth on the crank, but two teeth, well, you don't want to go there.

Item 5:

Finished mine yesterday.  Few observations, although nothing really earth-shattering:

1.  Being paranoid about the cam chain moving on me, I placed a zip tie around each chain guide under the cover.  Since I was checking valves at the same time, and had the cam cover off, I also zip tied the chain to each cam gear.  That baby didn't move.  Looking back, if someone is planning to do this at the same time as a valve check, it may not be necessary to remove the timing cover.  Start with the center plug to reveal the crank bolt.  Then check your valves.  If none need adjustment, then you can just zip-tie the chain to the cam gears for the CCT replacement and leave the timing cover on.

2.  The "cut a slot in the bolts so you can use a long screw driver to start them" idea is ingenious.  Once snug, I was able to use a wrench to tighten them up.

3.  To keep the CCT paper gskt from moving around, I put just a spec of high-temp RTV on two spots.  One less thing to worry about.

4.  I also put a spec of RTV on the retraction access bolt washer to keep it from flopping off while I was moving it into position.

5.  I was sure that if I didn't cover the frame hole on the inside, something was going to fall in there.  So I covered the hole with some painter's tape (the blue tape).  When re-assembly time came around, I just used my screwdriver that I was snugging bolts up with to poke a hole in my painter's tape, giving me the best of both worlds.

6.  The "how-do" says to exercise the new CCT back and forth a couple turns so that you can feel it against the cam chain.  I did that and was successful.  However, when finished with that exercise, I noticed that the chain was not very tight.  The how-do then says to rotate the engine and this was very helpful.  In just 2 rotations, the new CCT tightened up the chain very well - and it was much tighter than the original CCT.

The result of this is a much quieter start (especially a cold start).  I now know that my original CCT was MUCH weaker than the replacement part.  I'm sure part of that is because the upgraded part is a stiffer spring.  But how much of that is my original CCT spring fixing to crap the bucket and grenade my motor?  I'll never know, but I feel much better now.

First, thanks to the OP for the tips on CCT swap.  I just did mine tonight on my ’05 and it was no big deal at all. I had the old CCT removed in 1 hr but it was another 2 before I got everything buttoned up.  I also used a shortened 8mm wrench for the bottom bolt which clears the clutch cover… worked great.  I did cut a slot in both CCT bolts and the top one went in easily but for the bottom, I used a rubber hose to push against the bolt while rotating it and got it threaded in no time at all.  My new CCT also would not stay in the retracted position so I left the little “key” in place during installation.  I spent 20 min fooling around with the screw at the end of the CCT before I read the OP’s tips and then got it installed quickly using long tweezers and a screwdriver.  And yes, the new CCT is clearly stronger than the old unit.

Here’s a few pictures….

Regards,

Brendan

There's already a poll thread on that topic running somewhere on here

I'm in the process of doing my first valve check/adjustment.  I decided while I have everything apart, I may as well replace the CCT.  The idea of using small ignition type of wrenches is what got me over the hump.  I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt.  I was able to get the bottom bolt out in about 10 minutes.  Thanks for the excellent write up!  You can never have too many tools! 

... I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt.

... I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt.

Maybe 5/16"??

Thanks for the correction, yes it was 5/16"

Thanks again FJRForum. I know I don't visit often like I used to. Yes, I still have my 04 FJR, pulling a trailer with it now and picking up stickers along the way of my travel conquests. Have seen most of USA from that stock saddle. Hope to continue seeing more in the years to come. My cam chain started rattling and clattering a few weeks ago, so I came back here for research on the subject. I knew if it was anywhere to be found this would be the place. Followed the directions and replaced the CCT last Friday and things could not have gone smoother. The old FJR is humming like a sewing machine again. Can't believe the difference the new CCT made. Anyway, hope to see you guys on the road sometime.

Working on a trip up the Blue Ridge Pkwy, and parallel the Appalachian along back roads to the end marker in northern Maine. Trip tentatively set for October. Hope to ride a little in Vermont and New Hampshire along the way. With the new CCT I think the trip is possible now. Not sure what I would have done without my trusted 04. Best Regards, Bruce

I just bought my 2005 FJR and took it apart enough to see the CCT. I looked for a blue dot but couldn't see one. I can't see one in the pictures posted here either. My bike has 65,000 km (40,000 mi) on it. What is the opinion of whether this needs changing or not? Please.

Thanks,

Don

Did the 1st valve check since I have owned the bike. (50K, bought it at 48K) GEN1  always been rattlin a little on the right side. Once you get far enough into the bike, the CCT is a cakewalk.

Mind you, I haven't actualy had the CCT out of the engine yet, but i managed to change 4 shims on the intake side without fukin up the timing. Once the CCT gets here, it will be a tite squeeze to put it in, but this friggin bike is about as tightly packed as a honda jetski.  Learn what you need to take off to get the job done. The 1st time you will always take off more stuff than you need to.

Yeah, the main interference for CCT removal and replacement is the darned frame itself.  But you definitely also want to take the timing cover off to secure the chain, which means removal of the right lower faring panel.  Otherwise it's just an exercise in testing your manual dexterity.  

So, I am intalling my new tensioner this evening, took me 2 days to get the lower bolt loose, Ugh. My question is, after I install and tighten it up i know to release the pin. You mentioned manually turning the engine.... How do I do this without starting the bike? Please be detailed since this is my first time

So, I am intalling my new tensioner this evening, took me 2 days to get the lower bolt loose, Ugh. My question is, after I install and tighten it up i know to release the pin. You mentioned manually turning the engine.... How do I do this without starting the bike? Please be detailed since this is my first time

If on the center stand in gear wouldn't the engine spin? I believe so and that may be the easiest. Then again I haven't done the job yet. Been rattling for over a year now. I try not to rev the engine since that's when I hear it most.

Dave