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Photo's of how to get under the Tank GEN 1

 

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Photo's of how to get under the Tank


114 replies to this topic

#1 Rickster

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:14 PM

*
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Ok -- I had to try to do something positive as this will be my one thousandth post.

Photo's of how to get under the tank to do the TBS (Throttle Body Sync), and/or Throttle Return Spring, and other things (plugs etc.)

Documented for Gen II (2006 and 2007)

(1) Remove passenger saddle using the key, and drivers saddle. To remove the driver's saddle, there is a lever to the aft of the seat





Remove the screw (4mm hex key), and plastic rivet





Remove the plastic tank cover by pulling out on the forward edges, then slide back


Top view of what you're pulling out of what:



This is what's under there -- you have to slide the cover AFT to remove it. 




Picture of both the plastic tank cover and where it mates:




Remove the 2 bolts holding the tank on. Cover the tank with a rag to keep from chafing or chipping the paint




Next, prop the tank up slightly, and disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the bottom of the tank (circled in the photo below)


The release is on the outside of each connector (right side on the green connector, left side on the white connector viewed as you would be sitting on the motorcycle):

Push where highlighted to release the connector locking mechanism:



Now that the connectors are loose, you can raise the tank higher:



Tank raised higher (2X4 trimmed to hold up the tank. Also I've used a bungee cord from the holes back to the passenger grab rail -- just use something to hold the tank up and that is stable.)





Viewing under the tank -- next step -- remove the T-Bar



Note that the washers are not captive -- make sure you don't loose them:






Once the T-Bar is removed, remove the heat shield. Note the plastic rivet just to the left of where the harness exits -- remove that, and the heat shield can be removed.



Remove the aft side by lifting it up to clear:




Then, fold the forward edge under, and remove by pulling it out forward:





Removed view:




Orientation view (heat shield removed):





To do the Throttle Body Sync, you will have to connect the 2 electrical connectors removed to facilitate removal of the heat shield:





The following 4 pictures show the location of the cap that must be removed to connect your vacuum gage (carb stick, etc.)

Pictures are the rightmost first as you sit on the motorcycle:








and lastly the one on the left:



----------------------------------------------------------
There are numerous posts on great techniques to do the actual TBS -- so I'll skip repeating the adjustment.
----------------------------------------------------------


If you want to get the Throttle Return Spring released -- continue to read...


The TRS is in this area:




Top View:



Close up view -- note that the throttle is completely closed -- it makes it difficult to see in this shot.



If you move the throttle with the grip just a little, it is easier to see and get the spring tang from the hook.
You can see the spring tang just below the phililps head screw you see in the photo.



Get the edge (I used a hemostat), and remove it from the holding point.


As you slide it off the hook, it should unwind 1 revolution, and catch on the same hook that you removed it from:



Put everything back in reverse order,
and torque per your owners manual. 7.2 Ft-LB for the 2 forward tank fasteners that hold the tank to the frame.

Torque T-Bar bolts to 27 Ft-LB.
Regards, Rick
Seeking new FJR!

#2 818Guy

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:23 PM

Wow. Great post.

Thanks!

(I'm installing my PCIII and this will be a GREAT help.) 
2008 Buell Ulysses XB12XT

#3 03HiYoSilver

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:28 PM

Rickster,
A salute to a marvelous 1000th post. Great pic's and info...well done! 

#4 FantasticJohnR

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:33 PM

Wow, this makes some of Warchilds post of instructions look elementary.

I really like the step by step instruction with step by step pictures as I am a visual learner!

Thanks yahoo.gif
John
Austin, Texas IBA# 27772 
1996 Honda Shadow VT750D, 2003 FJR, 2006 FJRA, 2010 FJR 
2008 Kawasaki KLR650 Dual purpose fun!
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere lov'n it!

#5 warsw

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:35 PM

This was a great "how-to". Absolutely took all the guesswork out of it. Great job!!! Thanks. Your timing was perfect. I will be doing my TBS for the first time this Sunday. 

#6 JohnB

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:35 PM

Awesome, Dude. Muchas gracias. 

#7 Canadian FJR

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:37 PM

I wonder if that heat shield will fit the older models?











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From the tropics of Canada

#8 raclow

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:11 PM

WOW, great post. Thanks for sharing. Excellent detail... clapping.gif
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#9 HIGHLANDER

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:18 PM

Nice post Rick !!!

You may want to add the torque specs for the T bar reinstallation ( unless I missed it ? ). That torque is WAY more important than the gas tank bolts ....that just need " snug " specs ! biggrin.gif
WFO-2, WFO-3WFO-4WFO-5  NAFO-1CFR09 WFO 9

Alaska calling to the imitation zone............

#10 Rickster

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:29 PM

QUOTE(HIGHLANDER @ Mar 23 2007, 10:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nice post Rick !!!

You may want to add the torque specs for the T bar reinstallation ( unless I missed it ? ). That torque is WAY more important than the gas tank bolts ....that just need " snug " specs ! biggrin.gif


Torque T-Bar fasteners to 27 ft-lbs (using a calibrated torque wrench of course.) smile.gif 

Regards, Rick
Seeking new FJR!

#11 HIGHLANDER

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:33 PM

thumbsupsmiley.png
WFO-2, WFO-3WFO-4WFO-5  NAFO-1CFR09 WFO 9

Alaska calling to the imitation zone............

#12 Silent

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:35 PM

I wish I had this before I did mine lol 


most excellent writeup  clapping.gif clapping.gif

- Ray - AMA#111478- USMC 87-91- Supportourtroops!tree.gif "Trees hurt" nafo01a.gif  An XS Odyssey<<-- Click it, you know you want to 
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#13 Kaelaria

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:39 PM

Your timing couldn't have been better - I'll be doing my first TBS next week! Thanks!!! 

#14 FJR Steve

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:38 PM

excellent thread.

Especially the TRS. I was of the opinion (reading through all the previous posts and threads) that the spring was to be removed completely. Obviously not. 

Here for a good time, not a long time.

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#15 teerex51

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 08:58 AM

QUOTE(Canadian FJR @ Mar 23 2007, 10:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I wonder if that heat shield will fit the older models?
Canadian FJR


Man, you stole my line... angry.gif 

Actually at first glance, I don't see why not..apart from that 1/4-turn plastic fastener that will need a seat somewhere. 

The T-bar ought to hold the shield in its place... 
If the Yammy part does not carry an extortionate price, that's likely to be on my next order to University Motors...

Stef

Edit: as per official price list the heat shield costs $107.00 ....mmmhhhh.... 

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#16 Greg E.

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 11:26 AM

Outstanding 1K post. It will certainly help me w/ the t spring unwind.
-GSE- 
I'm MORE like I am now, than I was when I got here!!

***The older I get, the better I WAS***

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#17 grendell

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 11:48 AM

Very much appreciated. This makes these adjustments much easier to understand and envision.

Thank you very much. 

#18 MVF

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 11:26 PM

+1 on the Thanks! Especially for showing this on a 2nd gen bike. 
"Be happy for no reason" -Don't remember who

#19 tyronewildman

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 01:12 AM

QUOTE(FantasticJohnR @ Mar 23 2007, 10:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow, this makes some of Warchilds post of instructions look elementary.

I really like the step by step instruction with step by step pictures as I am a visual learner!

Thanks yahoo.gif



Come now, I know that you didn't mean to dis one of our leaders. When your name goes up in lights in front of a church (like Warchild's), let us know. 

Later,,,De... rolleyes.gif

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I've Got Two Words For You-Read My Avatar's Lips below
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#20 IGoSlow

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Posted 04 April 2007 - 06:48 PM

Thanks Rick.

Am getting ready to tackle this myself and this is greatly appreciated. 

 

Photo

Photo's of how to get under the Tank

 

114 replies to this topic

#1 Rickster

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:14 PM

*
POPULAR

Ok -- I had to try to do something positive as this will be my one thousandth post.

Photo's of how to get under the tank to do the TBS (Throttle Body Sync), and/or Throttle Return Spring, and other things (plugs etc.)

Documented for Gen II (2006 and 2007)

(1) Remove passenger saddle using the key, and drivers saddle. To remove the driver's saddle, there is a lever to the aft of the seat





Remove the screw (4mm hex key), and plastic rivet





Remove the plastic tank cover by pulling out on the forward edges, then slide back


Top view of what you're pulling out of what:



This is what's under there -- you have to slide the cover AFT to remove it. 




Picture of both the plastic tank cover and where it mates:




Remove the 2 bolts holding the tank on. Cover the tank with a rag to keep from chafing or chipping the paint




Next, prop the tank up slightly, and disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the bottom of the tank (circled in the photo below)


The release is on the outside of each connector (right side on the green connector, left side on the white connector viewed as you would be sitting on the motorcycle):

Push where highlighted to release the connector locking mechanism:



Now that the connectors are loose, you can raise the tank higher:



Tank raised higher (2X4 trimmed to hold up the tank. Also I've used a bungee cord from the holes back to the passenger grab rail -- just use something to hold the tank up and that is stable.)





Viewing under the tank -- next step -- remove the T-Bar



Note that the washers are not captive -- make sure you don't loose them:






Once the T-Bar is removed, remove the heat shield. Note the plastic rivet just to the left of where the harness exits -- remove that, and the heat shield can be removed.



Remove the aft side by lifting it up to clear:




Then, fold the forward edge under, and remove by pulling it out forward:





Removed view:




Orientation view (heat shield removed):





To do the Throttle Body Sync, you will have to connect the 2 electrical connectors removed to facilitate removal of the heat shield:





The following 4 pictures show the location of the cap that must be removed to connect your vacuum gage (carb stick, etc.)

Pictures are the rightmost first as you sit on the motorcycle:








and lastly the one on the left:



----------------------------------------------------------
There are numerous posts on great techniques to do the actual TBS -- so I'll skip repeating the adjustment.
----------------------------------------------------------


If you want to get the Throttle Return Spring released -- continue to read...


The TRS is in this area:




Top View:



Close up view -- note that the throttle is completely closed -- it makes it difficult to see in this shot.



If you move the throttle with the grip just a little, it is easier to see and get the spring tang from the hook.
You can see the spring tang just below the phililps head screw you see in the photo.



Get the edge (I used a hemostat), and remove it from the holding point.


As you slide it off the hook, it should unwind 1 revolution, and catch on the same hook that you removed it from:



Put everything back in reverse order,
and torque per your owners manual. 7.2 Ft-LB for the 2 forward tank fasteners that hold the tank to the frame.

Torque T-Bar bolts to 27 Ft-LB.
Regards, Rick
Seeking new FJR!

#2 818Guy

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:23 PM

Wow. Great post.

Thanks!

(I'm installing my PCIII and this will be a GREAT help.) 
2008 Buell Ulysses XB12XT

#3 03HiYoSilver

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:28 PM

Rickster,
A salute to a marvelous 1000th post. Great pic's and info...well done! 

#4 FantasticJohnR

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:33 PM

Wow, this makes some of Warchilds post of instructions look elementary.

I really like the step by step instruction with step by step pictures as I am a visual learner!

Thanks yahoo.gif
John
Austin, Texas IBA# 27772 
1996 Honda Shadow VT750D, 2003 FJR, 2006 FJRA, 2010 FJR 
2008 Kawasaki KLR650 Dual purpose fun!
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere lov'n it!

#5 warsw

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:35 PM

This was a great "how-to". Absolutely took all the guesswork out of it. Great job!!! Thanks. Your timing was perfect. I will be doing my TBS for the first time this Sunday. 

#6 JohnB

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:35 PM

Awesome, Dude. Muchas gracias. 

#7 Canadian FJR

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:37 PM

I wonder if that heat shield will fit the older models?











Canadian FJR 
From the tropics of Canada

#8 raclow

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:11 PM

WOW, great post. Thanks for sharing. Excellent detail... clapping.gif
A Tropical Shirt, A Cocktail, and Cigar.....LIFE IS GOOD!!!!!!!!

 

#9 HIGHLANDER

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:18 PM

Nice post Rick !!!

You may want to add the torque specs for the T bar reinstallation ( unless I missed it ? ). That torque is WAY more important than the gas tank bolts ....that just need " snug " specs ! biggrin.gif
WFO-2, WFO-3WFO-4WFO-5  NAFO-1CFR09 WFO 9

Alaska calling to the imitation zone............

#10 Rickster

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:29 PM

QUOTE(HIGHLANDER @ Mar 23 2007, 10:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nice post Rick !!!

You may want to add the torque specs for the T bar reinstallation ( unless I missed it ? ). That torque is WAY more important than the gas tank bolts ....that just need " snug " specs ! biggrin.gif


Torque T-Bar fasteners to 27 ft-lbs (using a calibrated torque wrench of course.) smile.gif 

Regards, Rick
Seeking new FJR!

#11 HIGHLANDER

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:33 PM

thumbsupsmiley.png
WFO-2, WFO-3WFO-4WFO-5  NAFO-1CFR09 WFO 9

Alaska calling to the imitation zone............

#12 Silent

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:35 PM

I wish I had this before I did mine lol 


most excellent writeup  clapping.gif clapping.gif

- Ray - AMA#111478- USMC 87-91- Supportourtroops!tree.gif "Trees hurt" nafo01a.gif  An XS Odyssey<<-- Click it, you know you want to 
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#13 Kaelaria

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:39 PM

Your timing couldn't have been better - I'll be doing my first TBS next week! Thanks!!! 

#14 FJR Steve

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:38 PM

excellent thread.

Especially the TRS. I was of the opinion (reading through all the previous posts and threads) that the spring was to be removed completely. Obviously not. 

Here for a good time, not a long time.

http://www.forum.fjr13.org/
(Administrator)
 

#15 teerex51

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 08:58 AM

QUOTE(Canadian FJR @ Mar 23 2007, 10:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I wonder if that heat shield will fit the older models?
Canadian FJR


Man, you stole my line... angry.gif 

Actually at first glance, I don't see why not..apart from that 1/4-turn plastic fastener that will need a seat somewhere. 

The T-bar ought to hold the shield in its place... 
If the Yammy part does not carry an extortionate price, that's likely to be on my next order to University Motors...

Stef

Edit: as per official price list the heat shield costs $107.00 ....mmmhhhh.... 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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#16 Greg E.

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 11:26 AM

Outstanding 1K post. It will certainly help me w/ the t spring unwind.
-GSE- 
I'm MORE like I am now, than I was when I got here!!

***The older I get, the better I WAS***

HM-3 3rd Marines, RVN '66-67
 

#17 grendell

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 11:48 AM

Very much appreciated. This makes these adjustments much easier to understand and envision.

Thank you very much. 

#18 MVF

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 11:26 PM

+1 on the Thanks! Especially for showing this on a 2nd gen bike. 
"Be happy for no reason" -Don't remember who

#19 tyronewildman

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 01:12 AM

QUOTE(FantasticJohnR @ Mar 23 2007, 10:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow, this makes some of Warchilds post of instructions look elementary.

I really like the step by step instruction with step by step pictures as I am a visual learner!

Thanks yahoo.gif



Come now, I know that you didn't mean to dis one of our leaders. When your name goes up in lights in front of a church (like Warchild's), let us know. 

Later,,,De... rolleyes.gif

"It doesn't have to Make sense"
I've Got Two Words For You-Read My Avatar's Lips below
STFU.gif
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    BSA        Honda   Triumph     Honda           BMW          Honda        Buell    Buell     H-D        Yamaha
De------Tyrone, Georgia-A Little South Of Hotlanta

 

#20 IGoSlow

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Posted 04 April 2007 - 06:48 PM

Thanks Rick.

Am getting ready to tackle this myself and this is greatly appreciated. 

mcatrophy

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 01:06 AM

Rick

Just followed your post to do the throttle return spring modification. Excellent posting, but (isn't there always a "but"?) a couple of points I found that might help, only because you've gone to such detail that an innocent (like me) can find unexpected unknowns.

In raising the tank, slacken the pivot bolt at the back:


You gloss over the removal of the "lump" (with three vacuum[?] tubes and an electrical connection). Note the white plastic tie holding its wires to the tank wiring, needs cutting and replacing when re-installing.:


Here the "lump" is just taken out of its wire holder:


The only other comments are I had to get a third hand (sons do have their uses sometimes) to hold the throttle open the quarter turn necessary to get to the spring, and as I couldn't find anything to grip the spring to pull it off the hook, I used two flat-bladed screwdrivers, one to push the spring tang forwards until it was just clear of the hook, the other to push it sideways off the hook, in the end very easy.

The result? Much improved throttle control, so thanks for the great write-up that gave me the confidence to make this adjustment.

I'm off on a tour of Scotland in three weeks, should ease that wrist ache!

FWIW, I took a few photos of my progress (I do this so I know how to put things back!), they can be viewed here

mcatrophy
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mcatrophy

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 03:29 AM

QUOTE (SCRider @ Sep 3 2008, 12:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (mcatrophy @ Sep 2 2008, 03:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (SCRider @ Sep 2 2008, 02:33 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (mcatrophy @ Aug 21 2008, 07:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (biknflyfisher @ Aug 19 2008, 04:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
... When I was ready to reinstall the two top tank bolts, they were slightly below the corresponding holes, so I believe when the front of the tank was raised it must have "settled" some on the rear rubber mounting block.
I was able to get the holes to line up after some work and general mumbling, but it was a curveball I was not anticipating none-the-less. ...
biknflyfisher

Did you slacken off the rear tank bolt?
(click on image for larger view)

Front alignment is then not a problem.

I found that removing the rear bolt completely works far better. If you leave the bolt in, the rear of the tank contacts the front seat support and basically tries to bend it as you lift up the front of the tank. If you pull the bolt out, the tank sits in the U-shaped groves under the tabs and gives plenty of support to the rear of the tank when tilted up. Once the tank is back down, I lift the tank from the rear to perfectly align the front bolts to where they were originally (paint scratches under the bolt heads covered).
SCRider

I guess you are a tallish guy (with seat in upper position)? Me, I'm a short-ars*; I hadn't considered the seat support in its upper position.


The seat position doesn't matter with what I'm talking about. If you look at the far left side of your picture, you can see how close the plastic cover is to the bottom lip of the tank. The bottom lip of the tank will contact the plastic cover over the top seat support if you don't remove the bolt. If you look closely at your picture, you can see the nicks on the corners of the plastic piece from being hit by the bottom lip of the tank. When the tank hits the seat support (or plastic cover when the seat is set at the low position) it pulls the tank backward on the rubber rear mount and makes it very difficult to get the tank back forward enough to get the front bolts in. The first couple of times under the tank, I had to remove the rear bolt to get the front bolts in. That's when I noticed the interference. This weekend, I was under the tank running some wires and went ahead and pulled the rear bolt out before I lifted the tank. Even with a full tank, I couldn't believe how much easier the tank came up.

Ah. I see what you mean. I suspect I've not raised the tank quite as far, when I felt resistance (presumably the rear touching that plastic), I've stopped lifting and put in my wooden support at the front.
(click on image for larger view)
 
The dowel at the end goes into one of the front tank bolt holes.

I've always found enough room for what I've wanted to do like that (TBS and throttle spring release), and the tank has always aligned nicely at the front when I've put it down.

I suppose if you push it further, things will start to move! 

mcatrophy
2018 FJR1300AS - YCC-S Rules!
2014 FJR1300AS 2010 FJR1300AS 2006 FJR1300AS '02 Trophy 1200 '01 Bonneville '55 Tiger Cub
Some FJRForum contributions.
My web site

#59 ctfjr

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 06:16 PM

Thanks for a very useful post! 
Life is Short
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#60 rbentnail

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 05:41 AM

QUOTE (Rickster @ Mar 23 2007, 10:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ok -- I had to try to do something positive as this will be my one thousandth post.

Photo's of how to get under the tank to do the TBS (Throttle Body Sync), and/or Throttle Return Spring, and other things (plugs etc.)

Documented for Gen II (2006 and 2007)

You da man, Rick!! Did the TBS yesterday, your photos made it so much easier. I did loosen the rear tank bolt, much better. And, since my workshop has exposed trusses, I simply wrapped a bungee cord around one of them and hooked it to the front of the tank to hold it up. No muss, no fuss. 

Thanks again!! 

 

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