Performed following tests (50F ambient, ~1,500 rpm)

Radiator water temperature check, fan in Auto

Radiator water temperature check, fan manually, continously on

Coolant Temperature Graphs
50F ambient, radiator cap off, ~1,500 rpm

Degree F on Y axis, Measurement Location on X axis

"5 In" = Cylinder 5, Intake.... 

2020-12-11 Kz1300 Temperature Test IR - Fully Hot from dcarver220b on Vimeo.

Fan in Auto

2020-12-11 Kz1300 Temp Check - Fan in Auto from dcarver220b on Vimeo.

Fan Continuously On Video

2020-12-11 Kz1300 Temperature Check - Fan Continuously On from dcarver220b on Vimeo.

Email to my buds..

Thanks for all the great ideas guys, you Rock.

Email to my buds..

Thanks for all the great ideas guys, you Rock.

Inquiring minds need to know if these are freeze plugs? Can they be removed so one could perform flow test and flushing of the cylinder block water passages?

2020-12-14 Overheating Troubleshooting (cont)

Decided to pull the fairing to get a better view.. It's a barndoor..

More and more, want to make this a semi-cafe bike.

Removed heat shrouds for better access with IR heat gun..

Out of focus, but spark plugs look ok.. Not perfect, but OK.

Ran into an issue with my 1977 Yamaha TT500 fuel tank leaking past the petcock.. 
So no attempt at burping tonight.

BUT! I did find the hose from radiator to catch tank was crimped... Could not blow it down using lung power..
Removed catch tank, disconnected hose from catch tank, and it was clear. Huh?
Long of short, blew hose down with air compressor,  reconnected to catch tank, and the circuit is open.
Perhaps the hose was crimped at catch tank rear? 

Tomorrow off to NAPA for cheap fuel cut off so I can attempt burp and take measurements per recommendations from KZ1300.com peeps.

Also, here's a video of coolant flow across a 1988 Honda Accord 4 cylinder radiator for comparison to the KZ1300's radiator flow..

2020-11-14 1988HondaAccordRadFlow from dcarver220b on Vimeo.

Found this.

No. But a lot of people still think so.  We have come up with some explanations for the Doubting Thomas.

Debunking the I Can Have It Both Ways Theory

The water has to have "time to cool" argument is perhaps the most common one we hear.  In a closed loop system if you keep the fluid in the heat exchanger you are simultaneously keeping it in the block longer.   Unfortunately, the block is the part that is generating the heat and the radiator is the part that is shedding it.   Sending hot coolant from your source (engine) through the heat exchanger (radiator) to the sink (air) will always transfer heat as long as there is a temperature difference between the source and sink.   The more times you introduce the source to the sink the greater chance you have to shed the heat out of the closed loop system. 

Debunking The Conscientious Electron Theory

We hear that the coolant has  to stay in the system longer to cool but what is heat transfer really but conduction, convection and radiation of electrons.  The fluid in your system transfers those electrons based principally on the source-sink differential and the exchange material's transfer rate.  An electron moves at varying speeds - Bohr's model has it moving at 2 million meter/second and with a mere 11 million eV boost you can get an electron to 99.9% of the speed of light.   Though they move at varying speeds physicists accept that electrons move fast - really really fast.  Far faster than the flow rate of the water pump.   Your engine coolant's electrons do not know (or care) how fast you send them through the system - they just knows that the source is hotter than the sink and... off they go.

Debunking Grandpa's Flathead Washer Theory

"But wait a minute, I know Grandpa used to put washers in his flathead to slow the flow and cool his engine."  We know people did this too.  They still do it but the cooling benefit is not from the slower flow but the increase in dynamic pressure in the block that builds from the restriction.  Consider that Grandpa had two flathead water pumps sending twice the volume through the same size radiator core as the Model B 4 cylinder.  Too much flow in this no pressure system results in fluid loss.  Slowing flow rate with a pair of common washers helped prevent that.  At some point Grandpa maxed out the throughput and began building pressure in his block.  Increasing block pressure helps reduce the onset of hot spots on his cylinder walls and formation of steam pockets in his block. This is a real benefit and does help cooling but is only realized when throughput nears capacity or is at capacity.   While these restrictions may make sense when your rpm is excessive or your flow rate exceeds your heat exchanger throughput, they do not make sense for most applications.  If you still doubt this thinking then try this simple Ask Dr. Science experiment; clamp off the lower hose while you watch your temp gauge.  Hopefully, you will debunk Grandpa's theory yourself before you experience vapor lock and melt your engine.

Flow restriction is not all bad if it serves to prevent cavitation.  Cavitation occurs when a pump turns so fast that you generate lower pressure and air bubbles or vapor forms.  These bubbles eventually implode and damage the engine block wall and impeller. Rapidly spinning the impeller can literally rip the air from water but may not actually move the fluid, it's tantamount to turning an eggbeater in a paint bucket.  Restricting the fluid flow to raise system pressure in the block may help prevent cavitation at higher RPM but is it necessary for most vehicles?  Probably not.

Most vehicles do not need  to restrict flow because they do not reach or sustain high RPM.  Additionally, thin aluminum radiators already restrict by design e.g. fewer rows of thinner tubes.  Restrict it further and you may as well hose clamp the lower radiator hose and we know how that works out.   When you face Grandpa on the track you may want your washers, otherwise, keep them in the toolkit.

Simply put, you have a far better chance of keeping your cool with greater flow rate through your heat exchanger and exiting the system than holding it in your heat exchanger while generating heat in your engine block.

Ordered a gallon from Amazon today..

https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/why-evans/

WHY EVANS

Evans Waterless Coolant provides distinct advantages over traditional water-based coolant. The absence of water avoids the formation of vapor, high pressure and boil-over, and prevents corrosion and electrolysis. Evans’ high boiling point and lower freeze point allow a wider and safer operating temperature range. The benefits derived from Evans can be achieved in most vehicle applications and engine types, although Evans’ performance may vary depending on cooling system configurations.

The Benefits of Using Evans Waterless Coolant

Heat Management: Evans high boiling point virtually eliminates vapor in the engine, ensuring constant liquid-to-metal contact. Evans draws more heat from the engine, which may lead to slightly higher coolant gauge temperatures (by 10 to 20 degrees). Heat management is improved as engine component temperatures are kept under control.

Lower Pressure:Evans’ lower system pressure reduces stress on hoses, seals and gaskets. 

Corrosion Protection:The absence of water also means no corrosion and electrolysis. This is particularly important for cars stored for long periods of time.

What is the right coolant for my use?
High Performance Waterless Coolant: Cars and light duty trucks. 
Heavy Duty Waterless Coolant: Heavy-duty diesel trucks, and off highway equipment
Powersports Waterless Coolant: Motorcycles, ATV's, UTV's, and snowmobiles.

How much coolant will I need?
EWC is a stand-alone coolant, not to be mixed with water. You need enough to completely fill the entire cooling system. Check your owner’s manual for coolant capacity.

How much Prep Fluid do I need?
If you cannot fully drain the system; Open the lower radiator hose and block drain plugs if accessible, and heater core. Allow to empty and force high volume air to purge remaining coolant. Fill with Evans Prep Fluid, run the vehicle to circulate and drain again. This would require approx. 75% of the system volume of Prep. Alternately, smaller quantities of Prep can be used to flush through a component, or plumbing.  

Will I need to use a chemical flush or will Prep Fluid be sufficient?
For neglected cooling systems or high mileage vehicles, a chemical flush may be necessary to remove rust, scale and residue prior to using Prep or Evans Coolant. Evans offers a Cooling System Flush for neglected cooling systems.

Will Evans lower my engine temperature?

Typically no. Vehicles running under normal operating conditions should show either no change or a slight increase in temperature, but that will depend on cooling system configuration as well as driving conditions. Certain systems that use incompatible components, have an existing problem, or are poorly designed could run hotter. The ability to lower the operating temperature depends on multiple factors, primarily coolant flow volume and air flow temperature. For example, multi pass radiators will result in higher temperatures due to decreased coolant flow volume vs. large tube multi row radiators that improve coolant flow. Different thermostats may increase flow volume because of less restriction.
Water-based coolant boils at a temperature only slightly higher than the operating temperature of the coolant. Localized boiling releases water vapor that can only condense into coolant that is colder than the boiling point of water. Vapor that doesn’t condense occupies a volume that displaces liquid coolant. Hot engine metal, insulated by water vapor, becomes an engine “hot spot” that can cause pre-ignition and detonation. Evans’ high boiling point means it will not turn to vapor.

Why would Evans make my engine run hotter? 

A system which is highly optimized for water, with restrictive flow and high-pressure differentials, can cause slower circulation with EWC. Evans’ high boiling point of 375°F (The boiling point of 375°F should not be confused with the actual operating temperature. Under most conditions the operating temperature will be more than 150° F below Evans boiling point) means the coolant will not boil, but if held longer in the engine, it can pick up more heat. The coolant temp is what your gauge reads; if the rest of the system is capable and compatible, Evans can draw more heat away from the metal, like a sponge, and the “engine component temps” are actually improved and stabilized.

What other changes or modifications will affect performance of Evans? 
From a "creation of heat" perspective, any mods to make additional horsepower will introduce greater potential heat load into the coolant and may call for other cooling system upgrades. More fuel used = more heat, and about 1/3 of all the heat created is managed by the cooling system.  Evans' published radiator recommendations, and other tech info is made available to address this, and since all applications differ, specific details can be discussed by calling Evans tech support, at  888-990-2665.
From a "heat management" perspective, Evans Waterless Coolant will generally respond favorably to increases in coolant flow, and/or minimizing restrictions to flow. Changes made to "improve" a water-based coolant system, before or after installation of Evans, should keep that in mind. Affected components include radiator, plumbing, thermostat, coolant pump, and pulleys. Proper system configuration and function for the application is always a part of the puzzle, and can become even more important, considering EWC's ability to "bring" more heat load to the air-side of the system.

In applications with turbochargers or superchargers, what will change with Evans?

Exhaust-driven (Turbochargers) and Engine-driven (Superchargers) are compressors, and introduce more under-hood heat load, because they compress the engine's intake air, which heats both the air and the supercharging device itself, considerably.  A turbocharger can experience localized temperatures in excess of 1000 degrees F. If a forced-induction compressor uses engine coolant for cooling, it will introduce greater temperature to the fluid.   If a "liquid-to-air" heat-exchanger, AKA "charge-air cooler", "aftercooler" or "intercooler" is installed, which uses engine coolant as a medium to remove the heat from the compressed intake air (which makes the air denser), there will be additional heat added to the coolant as well.   Further, the additional horsepowerrealized by the ability to add additional fuel to the highly compressed, dense intake air, will also add heat to the coolant, through higher engine temperatures (i.e. cylinder head, manifolds, etc.) 
  
The net result of all this can be extremely stressful on water-based coolant. Water is considered the best heat-transfer medium in its liquid state, but it will readily boil in the compressor and the cylinder head. The temperatures reached by the coolant in a "liquid-to-air" charge-air-cooler are typically not above water's boiling point. The system's coolant-routing comes into effect as well; necessary for circulation, the coolant will return from these accessories back to the pump and recirculate back through the engine in part. The total radiator and "air-side" capacity needed in a vehicle with forced-induction can be double (or greater) than what is needed just to cool the engine from normal atmospheric combustion operation. Bottom line—in such an installation, the "coolant" has a lot of work to do. It may be necessary for the "coolant" to be very hot in the process.

Evans can be used effectively to cool these high-temperature components because its resistance to boiling can allow greater heat transfer. However, the plumbing to these accessories is often relatively small, and can hinder circulation with the greater-viscosity fluid. Observed coolant temperature may increase due to the lower specific-heat of the waterless coolant, plus the non-optimized flow characteristics. Control of component temperature and system pressure and stress can still be improved. Further, if a system is optimized for the properties of waterless coolant, excellent efficiency and very comfortable "operating temps" can be realized without approaching the failure point of the coolant.  

Will waterless coolant work in my Intercooler?

Air-to-liquid intercoolers act like a "backwards radiator," absorbing heat from the compressed air into the coolant. From a heat transfer standpoint, liquid water is best. Intercoolers typically do not see water temps above boiling point, so the benefit of waterless coolant for stabilizing or lowering the temperature is less evident than in the engine radiator. Where corrosion is a concern, Evans offers long-term protection but will not necessarily show an improvement in intake-air temperature.

What radiator type is best to use with Evans?  
Evans recommends single-pass radiators as they have less flow resistance than multi-pass radiators. The following are minimum radiator core suggestions:
    300HP or less without AC.........................4 rows: ½” tube copper/brass
    300HP to 400HP with AC..........................2 rows: 1” tube aluminum
    400HP to 600HP....................................... ..2 rows: 1.25” tube, aluminum
    600HP and above........................................3 rows: 1” tube aluminum 
                                                      OR            2 rows: 1.5” tube aluminum

Is it necessary to change the radiator cap?

No, a different radiator/pressure cap is not required. Evans waterless coolant expands slightly as it warms, creating pressure of 3–5 psig, and the existing cap does not need to be changed.

Do I need to get ALL of the old coolant / water out?

Excessive water content will lower the boiling point andmay reduce the corrosion protection. A successful conversion is ideally below 3% water.  If water content exceeds 3%, drain a portion from the system and add back new Evans waterless coolant until below 3%.

The conversion process is not complicated but should be done thoroughly and according to written instructions.  Instructional videos on the Evans website may help with specific vehicle types. 
Basic Installation Procedure:
1. Drain all old water-based coolant out from radiator, block, and heater core if accessible.
2. Use high volume air to force out remaining coolant
3. Fill with Evans Prep Fluid (waterless flush) and run for 15 minutes to circulate.
4. Allow to cool and drain out Prep Fluid in same manner as old water-based coolant.
5. Fill with Evans Waterless Coolant and run for 15 minutes to circulate.  Top off as necessary.
6. Test for water content to confirm less than 3% water. Water content can be measured with a refractometer or a sample can be sent to Evans for testing.

How often do I need to replace Evans?

It may depend on use, and conditions the vehicle operates under.  For cars that sit for long periods, such as in a museum or a collection, Evans can last the life of the engine, and no periodic addition of additives is required, nor should any ever be added. Evans recommends inspecting the cooling system at least once a year to ensure water content remains below 3%. An Evans Refractometer maybe used or send a coolant sample to Evans for a free analysis.  Vehicles with higher mileage should do periodic coolant sampling to verify the coolant’s integrity. 

Is Evans allowed for use on race tracks?
NHRA has approved EWC products, for use at their National and Divisional events, and Evans is an official contingency sponsor for the NHRA.  It is as slippery as other glycol/water-based coolants, but Evans lower pressure significantly decreases the risk of coolant loss. Check with your track manager otherwise.  
NHRA Tracks Approved - Download Authorization Letter

Powersports

Which coolant is best to use for my application? Powersports? NPG? TrackWater?

Powersports Coolant: is the appropriate choice for most powersports applications, unless track rules specify a non-ethylene glycol rule.

NPG Coolant: is a 100% propylene glycol coolant that is for use in racing series and track days that allow propylene glycol, but not ethylene glycol. Examples of series with this rule definition (as of today Oct 2018 - always check your rule book; there are other series that are not listed) are CCS/ASRA Road Racing, CRA Road Racing, Xcel Track Days, SoCal Track Days, Brainard Raceway and American Flat Track Racing. NPG is also used in applications where non-toxic properties are required.

Evans TrackWater Coolant: is a paved-track legal water. It has superior corrosion protection and surface tension reduction as tested against other leading track legal water formulas. It is not an antifreeze, and it will freeze at 32°F (0°C).  Evans TrackWater may create vapor pressure and vapor inside the cooling system and may overheat at excessive operating temperatures.  Use only when glycol-based products are not allowed, or a “water only” rule exists.

Will Evans make my engine run too hot? 
No. People often think the temperature gauge reports engine temperature when it really is only reading the coolant temperature. With water-based antifreeze, the temperature gauge must be watched because when it gets too hot, the antifreeze will boil within the system allowing the engine to overheat. Evans Coolant will not create vapor; it remains in its liquid state, ensuring constant liquid-to-metal contact, maintaining its ability to draw heat from the engine keep metal temperatures under control.

Will Evans trigger limp mode prematurely?
Possibly. Vehicle manufacturers set the engine control on some models to trigger "limp mode" at certain coolant temperature levels. In limp mode, power is reduced so the engine creates less heat to allow the cooling system to catch up. These settings are based on the failure point of water-based antifreeze, whereas Evans’ higher boiling point allows safe operation at higher temps. Vehicles in powersports that incorporate limp mode programming are usually the larger ATVs, UTVs, and snowmobiles. Teams that race these machines with Evans Coolant defeat the limp mode function because it is not needed to protect their engines.

Will the use of Evans potentially melt plastic parts?

This is not typically a recreational rider's issue. If the radiators get clogged with mud and the rider keeps pushing, the coolant temperature will go up. With water-based antifreeze, the bike can overheat, and the rider will need to stop to prevent damage from occurring. With Evans Coolant, the only issue with high coolant temperatures is the potential of plastic part failure. The "T" or "Y" plastic hose connectors that connect 3 hoses together can melt under extreme conditions, typically in tough racing conditions like a mud race. A silicone hose kit that eliminates the plastic fittings and an aftermarket pump impeller will alleviate the issue.

2020-12-17 - The Big Burp

Found the hose between radiator and catch tank obstructed or pinched. Perhaps pinched behind catch tank or possibly clogged from radiator stop leak I used when I thought the base gasket leaking. It wasn't, it was the water pump leaking, then puking out the drainage tunnel. 

Removed hose at radiator, blew like a madman, nothing.

Removed catch tank, blew again, some communication but not much. Really went for it, then it was open.

Installed catch tank, checked for open line again, all good.

1. Radiator to Catch Tank Communication
2. Test SetUp
3. Start of BigBurp Process - 3 min
4. Big Burp 4.5 minutes
5. Big Burp - 6 min, Fans on
6. Big Burp - 7 min, Top of Normal Op Temp
7. Big Burp - Boil Over! B U R P!
8. Big Burp - 15 min, post  burp, cooling down
9. Big Burp - IR measurements post Big Burp
10. Fans on @ top Normal Op Range Upper Limit
11. Fan off at 'M' of Temp
12. Ambient Conditions for Testing
13. Temp w/ Shrouds On
14. Cooler w Shrouds Off

So then, 

1. Burping definitely helped! Lower cylinder temperatures, more 'on-scale' temp readings even for a cool evening
2. At least when static, no forward movement, she runs cooler with out radiator shrouds than with them installed
3. I might need to flush the radiator by a pro. It appears to have a hot spot on LHS row(s)
4. Maybe, just freaking Maybe? Can't wait to ride...

Kawboy on kz1300.com mentioned using an IR camera..

Found this one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HT175-Infrared-Thermometer-Thermal-Imaging-Came...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bg0NNH_Xp-c

2020-12-25 Kz1300 Heat Thermograpjy from dcarver220b on Vimeo.

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Soooo then, a successful ride!

2021-01-15 Kz1300 Cooling Stress Test

Been chasing an overheating problem on the KZ..

It's January, and all rides to date have been in high 50 to low 60F ambient conditions.
Weather forecast is low 80's in the south county of San Luis Obispo. 
Let's go there then slog around on city streets to see what happens?

Fully prepared with AAA, health insurance, and credit cards!

I will say that after all the work, she starts instantly and sounds good at idle.

In Atascadero CA to send incorrect delivered parts back to PartZilla.

Another view.

Something werid with charging system now. This 12.1 will pop up instantly sometimes, other times slooowly creeps back to 14.9. BTW, the voltmeter is 0.5 low.
More importantly, the temp gauge is at high end of normal zone, but over, and I'm slogging along in first gear going through town.. A good sign!

The hottest it got. I'll take that for now.
Unfortunately, had to cut the ride short as apparently my charging system is directly inversely propotional to ambient temps AND the fuel tank isn't venting
adequately.. the bike started running real rough and smell of gasoline. Opened tank cap and Whooosh... so pressure is overriding float/needle and flooding the engine.

MPG

Temps

Notes:

1. Charging system needs work, VDC drops below acceptable levels when hot and is intermitte
2. Cooling seems to be OK enough given I'll not be riding on hot days in heavy traffic anymore
3. Tank is building pressure when hot
4. Ran two tanks of heavy dosed Yamaha Ring Free

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